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U. S. REVENUE CUTTER CORWIN ENTERING A LEAD. 




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FAST IN THE ICE. 



nOTH Congress. ) HOUSE OF nEPTTRSENTATTVER. ( Mt?. Doo. 

1st Session. ) '( No. 602. 



REPORT 



/ 



OF THE 



CRUISE OF TIIK IlKVENUE MARINE STEAMER 



C O R ^Y T N 



IN -rnE 



ARCTIC OCE^N 



IN 



THE YEAR 18S4. 



CAPT. M. A. HEALY, U. S. R. M., 

COMMANDElt. 



WASHT^'GTO^^• 
GOVERNMENT PKINTING OFFICE. 

1 8 .S 9 . 



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LETTER 



THE SECRETARY OF THE TREASURY, 

IN RESPONSE TO A RESOLUTION BF THE HOUSE, 
TRANSMITTING, 

With accompanyhuj documents,, the report of dipt. M. A. Eeah/, V. S. Revenue Marine, vpon the 
cruise of the Revenue Marine steamer Corwin in the Arctic Ocean in the year 1884. 



Treasury Department, February 28, 1885. 

Sir : In response to the resolution of tbe House of Kejjreseutatives of the 17th iustaut, I have 
the honor to transmit herewith a copy of the report of Cai)t. M. A. Ilealy, U. S. Revenue Marine, 
upon the cruise of the Kevenue Marine steamer Corwin iu the Arctic Ocean, made in the year 1881, 
aufl its accompanying documents and illustrations. 

This report contains the results of some original explorations and observations, made by the 
ofticcrs of the Corwin while prosecuting- their regular duties in Alaska, and is deemed of consider- 
able public importance. The explorations of the banks of the Kowak Itiver are the first ever re- 
corded, although the river has been known through information furnished by^the natives for thirty 
years. 

The following is the list of inclosures which constitute the report ami its accompaniments: 

(1) General reportof operations of vessel for the protectioji of tlie seal fisiieries and sea- 

otter hunting-grounds, including report of Lieutenant Lutz. 

(2) Examination and description of Bogoslov Volcano, witli illustrations. 

(3) Reportof Lieutenant Cantwell of the survey of the Kowak River, accompanying 

his journal, with illustrations. 

(4) Notes on the Kowak River and Northern Alaska by Engineer McLenegau. 

(5) Notes on birds, by Engineer McLenegau, with illustrations. 

(6) Memoranda regarding the tiora and fauna of the Kowak River. 

(7) Notes on fishes. 

(8) Notes on plants. 

(9) Notes on marine invertebrates. 
(10) Notes on rocks. 
Illustrations. 

I have respect i'ull.^ to request that iu printing the above-mentioned re]>ort provision be made 
by Congress to furnish to the Treasury' Department eighteen hundred (1,8(I0) copies. 
Very respectfully, 

H. McCULLOCH, 

Secretary. 
Hon. J. G. Carlisle, 

Speaker House of Representatives, 

Washington, D. C. 



CAPT. M. A. HEALY'S LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 



» U. S. Eevenue Makine, 

Revenue Steamer Cokwin, 

Martinez Cal, November 10, 1884. 

Sib: I have tlio bouor to submit herewith a report covering- tlie operations of this vessel dnr- 
iug her receut cruise iu the Arctic, together with a report of Lieut. J. W. Uowisou, who was located 
thirty days at Point Hope, aud of Lieut. J. ('. Oantwell and Assistant Engineer S. B. McLeuegan, 
regarding their exploration of the Kowak Eiver. 

I would respectfully call attention to the fact that the head of the river was not reached either 
by our party or the uaval expedition, and the most interesting portion of the river remains unex- 
plored. As far as I can learn, the naval expedition ascended about four hundred miles, and that 
from the Gorwin three hundred and seventy-nine — little or no difference. Lieutenant Cantwell had 
reached his highest point and was returning when he met the expedition under Lieutenant Stoney. 

We are the pioneers of the river, aud I believe the report of Lieutenant Cantwell will be read 
with interest. 

The specimens of birds and minerals collected were forwarded upon our arrival. 

The floriil specimens aie forwai'ded by today's mail for classification. Those collected up the 
river ai-e separately marked liom those obtained along the coast. 

I also forward the report of Lieutenant Lutz of his operations at the seal islands, together 
with a chart showing soundings, and rocks and shoals surveyed by him. I fully indorse his 
recommendation that the ofiicer detailed for duty at the seal islands take up his residence here- 
after on St. Paul Island instead of Otter Island. At St. Paul Island j)lenty of men and boats can 
be obtained aud much more efTective work be accomplished than could possibly be done by an 
otficer on Otter Island with but two men. t>tter Island may be visited as often as necessary. 

The officers of the schooner Adele, seized by Mr. Lutz, all pleaded guilty on the charge for 
which they were indicted and have been sentenced to.four mouths' imprisonment. The case of the 
schooner is still undecided. I believe that the conviction of the ofiBcers was due iu a great meas- 
ure to the attention and perseverance Mr. Lutz has given to the case. 

Since my return I have learned through men who have been seamen on the sealmarauding 
vessels that most of the seal taken this year were killed on St. George Island and near the village 
and directly under the nose of the special agent. This could not have been done if anything like 
a decent lookout had been kept. 

I would recommend that an ofQcer of this service be stationed on that island next year, and I 
think these seal-marauding expeditions will be broken up. 

The inclosed reports, together with partial reports transmitted heretofore, cover the entire 
operations of this vessel on her late cruise, and I believe the whole to be as complete as could be 
expected of a seaman untrained in the work of collecting scientific data. 

I have to express my thanks to Prof. George Davidson, of the U. S. Coast Survey, for impor- 
tant assistance iu the work of making the chart of the Kowak River, etc., aud to the various gen- 
tlemen connected with the U. S. National Museum whose statements regarding specimens of 
natural history collected by the Cnririn form a. jiart of this report. 
I am, very resjiectfully, your obedient servant, 

M. A. IIeal^', 
Ca2)tain, U. S. Revenue Marine. 

The Secretary of tue Trkastrv, 

Washiiti/lon, D. G, 



REPORT 

OF THE 

CKUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 



U. S. Revenue Marine Steamer Corwin, 

San Francisco, November 7, 1884. 

Sir: I have the honor to submit tlie followiDg report of the cruise of U. S. revenue steaiuer 
Coruin, under my coniuiiind, in the waters of Alaslia, Behriug Sea, and the Arctic Ocean, during 
the months of Miiy, June, July, August, September, and October, 1884, in compliance with orders 
of the Department under date of April 18, 1884. 

Having completed arrangenients and received on board the necessary supplies, at 1. p. m. of 
May 3 we weighed anchor and stood out of San Francisco Harbor. At 8.40 p. ui. of the same day 
departure M'as taken from Point Eeyes and the vessel's head was turned to the northward and 
westward. 

For the minor details of the cruise to the Aleutian Islands, I would respectfully refer you to 
the copy of the ship's log heretofore' forwarded, nothing of special importance having occurred 
requiting further notice. 

At 11.15 p. m. of May 16 we anchored in Ounalaska Harbor. On the following morning the 
vessel was placed alongside the dock for the purpose of taking on board coal and water. Our 
surplus stove-coal was put on shore that its room might be utilized. 

Rev. Mr. Hartmaun and Mi-. Wielaud, the Moravian missionaries who had been granted 
passage on the vessel by sanction of the Department, left the vessel at this place. 

In preparation for the severe work about to be performed fires were here hauled, boiler blown 
down, and engine and boiler overhauled and cleaned. On the 19th fifty-four tons of the coal 
belonging to the service and stored at this place was taken on board. 

At 10. a. m. of the 20th the town was visited by a very perceptible shock of earthquake, which 
was felt on board ship. 

At 8 p. m. of the 20th, having filled fresh-water tanks and boarded the vessels in the harbor, 
lines were cast off and we stood towards Bogoslov. 

At 6 a. m. of the 21st the vessel was anchored near this island, and Lieutenants Hall, Doty, 
anil Cantwell, together with Assistant Surgeon Yemans, were detailed to go on shore and gather 
such information as they could concerning this remarkable volcano. Lieutenant Hall made a 
flying survey of the island; Lieutenants Doty and Cantwell photographed several of the note- 
worthy features, and Lieutenant Cantwell and Dr. Yemans made various notes, which were 
embodied in the reports I had the honor to forward to the Department. 

I trust that the facts thus secured, together with the geological si>ecimens obtained, will be 
of importance to the scientific men of the country, as I am assured they will be of interest to the 
reading public. I regret that limited experience and time precluded the possibility of fuller details, 
there being niany phenomena which I think Well worthy the time and investigation of our best 
scientists. 

7 



8 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

On May 22 I returned to Ounalaska, and beinj;; in a safe place employed the time to May 29 in 
taking on board lorty-six tons of coal in bags and doing much work about decks that had become 
absolutely necessary in order to prci)are the vessel for an extended sea cruise to the northward. 

May 22 the services of the Coririv were called into requisition by the bark //. W. Almi/, 
Captain Smith, a vessel which iiad anchored in llio outer harbor, and after two unsuccessful 
attempts to go to sea, had been obliged to anchor in a dangerous position and requested our aid 
in extrication. 

May 2!), having completed the most necessary repairs, we got under way and after touching 
at Bogoslov on the 30th, stood for the seal islands. At 9 a. m. of the Slst we anchored off St. 
(leorge Island. From Mr. George Wadman, United States si)ecial agent, stationed at this island, 
1 learned lliat tlie. svhoouer Alcuander, a, vessel ostensibly engaged in sea-otter hunting, visited the. 
island under i)retext of filling water casks, but Mr. Wadman was quite convinced that the master 
conteniplated a raid on the seal rookeries. Though no seal had been taken on the island by the 
Ncliooiier, tlu'ee hundred skins were found on boaril. No other vessel open to the susi)icion of 
being a marauder had been seen in that vicinity. At 10 a. m. we got under way and ])roceeded 
to Otter Island, where we lauded twenty five bags of coal for the use of the ollicer to be stationed 
there. At 7 p. m. we anchored oil' St. Paul. 

On .June 1 Lieut. J. E. Lutz was lauded with a detail of two men to take up his residence on 
Otter Island during the sealing season. The usual instructions to the officer detailed for this duty 
were given him. 

At 4 p. m. of the same day we got under way and resumed our northern course. 

At 9 a. m. of June 2 floating ice was first sighted, and by G p. ni. it had become so heavy as to 
prevent the vessel approaching nearer than ten or twelve miles to St. Mathew's Island, where I 
had intended visiting. From this time up to June 7, when we anchored near St. JlichaelV, the 
vessel was being worked through heavy drift and field ice, following up leads where they were 
l)resented, or tracking along the pack ice in search of favorable openings, sometimes under sail 
alone, or steam, or both, as weather and occasion demanded, the object in view being as early an 
arrival as possible at the Indian villages in order to prevent traflic in illicit goods. 

\Vhile thus cruising among the ice several banded seal were shot, with the intention of pro- 
curing specimens for the Smithsonian Institution, but they sank as soon as thoy were killed. 

At St. Jlicliael's the ice was so heavy as to prevent our entering the harbor, and we were 
obliged to land on the outside of the island and cross it to the village. Here I took on board a 
native interpreter and a Mr. Miller, a practical miner, who desired to accompany the proposed boat 
expedition up the Kowak River. Mr. Miller was to receive no compensation other than his rations. 

I would respectfully state that the sheathing and ice breaker placed u[ion the vessel last sjuing 
stand the severe test to which they have been put admirably, and have enabled us to work through 
ice that otherwise would have been inipassable. 

Last year the Golowin P.ay j\Iining Comi)any, of San Francisco, sent a schooner, the A/rt.s7w, 
with twenty men on board, to Golowin JJay, a small arm of Norton Sound, for the purpose of work- 
ing a silver mine up the Fish River, a tributary to the bay. No news had been heard from them 
up to the time of the departure of the Conciti on this cruise. Just previous to sailing I received 
a conununication from the secretary of the comjiany, recjuesting me to ascertain, if jiossible, their 
fate or condition. Having this important matter in view, at ^^ ]>. ni. of June S I left St. Michael's 
for Golowin Hay, arriving at that place at 2 a. m. of June 9. Lieutenant Hall was immediately 
dispatched to the mining camp for the purpose of obtaining all possible information. He found 
at the camp four men who had wintered there, and from them learned the following facts: The 
schooner Alaska left Golowin Bay for San Francisco October 21, 18S3, with a cargo of seventy-five 
tons of galena ore. The following persons were on board : 

Cre«-. — Master, William P. (ialhigher; mate, Walter IbK'pfner; second mate, W. Marston ; 
seamen, Arthur Eaton, James Muir, George, Tom — surnames of last two not known. 

Passengers.— John Lowrie, Andrew Doulson, Charles Thompson, Samuel Marston, Charles 
Babb, George Eastman, R. B. Hart, James Thompson, W. II. Cardinell. 

Diligent search during our cruising revealed nothing concerning the schooner's fate. Subse- 
quent inquiry among the whalemen, however, resulted in the information that a schooner was seen 




Yukon River Natives. 



Coast Eskimos. 



FORT ST. MICHAELS. 




INDIAN TRADING CAMP NEAR SAINT MICHAELS, ALASKA. 



CEUISE OP THE STEAMER COllWli^. i) 

about October 28, 1883, by Captain Smith, of the Buwhead, aud others, just previous to a heavy 
gale, between St. Lawrence and St. Matthew's Islands. This spring a schooner, bottom up, has 
been seen by several parties to the westward of the Aleutian Islands, and in all probability this 
wreck was the Alaslca. I feel little hesitation in saying that she foundered in the gale referred to, 
or one subsequent, aud that all hands ])erished. 

Lieutenant Hall was also directed to make close inquiry regarding the relations existing 
between the miners aud the Indians. A few questions elicited the information that two Indians had 
been killed during the winter by the whites for breaking, entering, and robbing the company's 
store-house. The miners claimed that the killing had been done in defense of life and property, 
and had been resorted to only as a last extremity and after peaceful means had failed. After hear- 
ing this plea in justification of the fict, I sent Lieutenant Hall with our Indian interpreter among 
the natives to make a searching investigation as to the facts of the shooting, the character of the 
Indians killed, and the general treatment of the Indians by the whites. The natives unanimously 
agreed that the shooting was entirely justifiable; that the dead men were desperadoes and had 
been for years a terror to their own people, and that their treatment by the whites had been 
uniformly kind and humane, Under these cii'cumstances I did not deem further action in the 
premises necessary, more especially as the meu concerned in the killing could be found later on iu 
San Francisco. 

At the time of our visit the supply of provisions in the camp had become nearly exhausted, 
and I issued to them from the ship's stores sufficient to last them until the middle of July. I 
informed them that in case they desired to return home passage could probably be obtained on the 
steamer St. Paul from St. Michael's about July 15, or in case they should fail to make this arrange- 
ment that they could go down on the Corivin iu the fall. I also agreed that in case they desired 
to remain at the mine over winter to convey to their camp such provisions as they might be able 
to purchase at St. Michael's. Subsequently (August 4) these provisions were transported and 
landed as agreed. 

On September 4 I found five of these miners at St. Michael's. As there was then no other 
means of transportation, and not sufficient food at the station to warrant the agent keeping them 
over winter, I was obliged to grant them passage to San Francisco. 

In connection with this work I desire to express the satisfaction I feel in being able to be of 
service to citizens who have interests in these Arctic seas, and at the freedom with which they ask 
for the assistance of this vessel in matters of private importance, public interest, and humanity; 
but, nevertheless, I can not censure in too severe terms the employment of persons here without 
snfflcient stores and with inadequate means of retreat. 

On June 9 I left Golowin Bay and proceeded to the westward under sail, and sail and steam, 
and had clear water until the evening of the 10th, when heavy driftice was encountered off King's 
Island. From King's Island we stood to the northward, working through ice until 10 a. m. of the 
1 1th, wiien the vessel was made fast to an iceberg for the purpose of wateriug ship. At 7.20 p. m. 
lines were cast off and we steamed to the northward and eastward. At 8 a. m. of the 12th the ice 
by an erratic movement swung around to the southwai'd of the vessel, completely inclosing us in 
the pack. There being no clear water vissible from the masthead I made no exertion during the 
day to extricate the vessel IVoin her position, hoping that the ice would 0])en and give us a lead 
to the southward into clear water. At 8 a. m., however, finding our position growing more serious, 
as the vessel was drifting to the northward in the pack at the rate of one aud a half knots, I made 
a determined effort to work out under a full head of steam, but after three hours of hard work I 
was obliged to desist, as the vessel could not be moved iu any direction. At midnight another 
attempt was made under steam and sail, aud although for several hours the gain to the southward 
w;)s hardly perceptible, we gradually entered weaker aud more open ice, and at 8 a. m. of the l.^l h, 
to the satisfaction of all, and to my intense relief, clear water was readied. The thumping of the 
vessel against the heavy ice as she was being forced through it was something terrific. At times 
it seemed hardly possible that she could hold together under the pressure, and if it lutd not been 
for the sheathing and strengthening received last spring it is, in my opinion, extremely doubtful 
whether she would have ever emerged from her perilous situation. 



10 CEUISE OF THE STEAMEE COEWIN. 

After gettiug clear of the pack I pioceeded to the westwiuil under sail. At 2.15 p. in. the 
steam whaler Orca was spoken, and from her ma.ster I learned that but six vessels had entered 
the Arctic, the rest of the fleet being blocked by the ice to the southward of St. Lawrence Island. 
Such being tlie case, I deemed that tlie interests of the Government would be best served by 
remaining in the vicinity of the straits and boarding these vessels as they entered the jurisdiction 
of the United States. Two weeks later the fleet passed into the Arctic on the Siberian side, and 
therefore it was out of my power to intercept any liquor they might have had on board for trading 

purposes. 

Meanwhile I visited East Cape, St. Lawrence Bay, Diomede Islands, Cape Prince of Wales, 
and Port Clarence, making frequent but unsuccessful attempts, as the ice receded, to enter 
Kotzebue Sound. 

June 15, at Kruzenstern Island, one of the Diomedes, I learned that whisky had been sold to 
the natives by one of the whalemen, but the most searching inquiries failed to discover the name 
of the vessel or that of her master. At one time the Indians would say that the .ship that sold 
them the liquor was a steamer, and almost in the same breath declare that it was a sailing vessel 
with one, two, three, and even six masts; that her master was a little man, a big man, and almost 
anything else they were asked. So contradictory were they in their statements that it was alKso- 
lutely impossible to gather any reliable information as to the guilty vendor. An armed boat's 
crew, under the command of Lieutenant Hall, was sent to the village with instructions to search 
the huts and seize any liquors that might be found there. On lauding he was surrounded by a 
crowd of half-drunken Indians, and was informed by one of their number where a five-gallon can 
of alcohol could be found. This ho obcained and brought on board. With the single excei)tion 
noted no liquor has been found on the Alaskan shore, and, judging from the conduct of the natives, 
none has been landed. The same can not be said, however, of the Russian side, as at neaily all 
the settlements visited on that shore uatives were seen under the influence of liijuor. 

Until July 1, when a heavy gale broke up the ice and drove it to the uortliward, little could 
be done. The drifting ice required the vessel to be kept in motion, while the dense fog ren<lered 
unceasing vigilance imperative. 

On the 7th of July I was unable to reach Etotham Inlet, and on the 8th sent a boat's crew in 
the steam-launch to explore the river located by a boat's crew from this vessel under Lieutenant 
Storey last year. The party consisted of Lieut. J. C. Cantwell, in charge; Assistant Engineer S. 
B. McLenegan, Quartermaster Horace Wilbur, Fireman J. Lewis, Mr. Jliller, a miner previously 
mentione«l, and our native interpreter. Lieutenant Cantwell was furnished with necessary orders, 
a copy of which is inclosed. Lieut. George H. Doty, who was to have charge of the expedition, 
unfortunately lacerated his hand so badly just before starting as to wholly unfit iiim for tlie work 
to be jterlbrmed, and Mr. Cantwell being available, I placed him in charge. 

Having dispatched the expedition and lauded the necessary supplies for it, we got uuder way 
and stood to the westward. After several days' hard fighting with the ice we reached Point Hojie 
tni the 17th with the steam whalers. But two sailing vessels had arrived, tlie rest having been 
detained by the ice and a dense fog which had prevailed during the previous three weeks. On the 
18th the steamer Beda and bark Thomas Pope arrived with mail and supplies for the fleet. The 
Beda brought up a party of four men for the purpose of ascertaining if the coal seams near Cajie 
Sabine could be worked with profit. I understand that an ISfoot seam has been found. The coal 
is of better quality than has hitherto been mined at this place, and arrangements will be made the 
coming winter for taking it out. 

The Beda also had eight men on board, who are to establish at Cape Smythe, eight miles from 
Point Barrow, a whaling station similar to those on the coast of California. These people are to 
remain here all winter. 

In this connection I desire to suggest to the Department the advisability of establishing a 
life-saving or relief station at Point Barrow for the benefit of the large and constantly increasing 
number of American vessels frequenting the Arctic during the whaling season, which are obliged 
to encounter the rigors and dangers of this polar climate. Sucjh a station located at this point 
would be of the greatest value to these vessels, as sl)ips are freciuently wrecked by ice in tiiis 
vicinity and the crews undergo great hardships ami suffering while on shore waiting for rescuing 




ESKIMO TRADING PARTY. 



*» 




ICEBERG OFF POINT BARROW. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. 11 

ships. In fact, a majority of the wLtile ships lost in the Arctic have been crushed in the ice near 
Point Biirrow. Thirty-three vessels were lost in this vicinity in 1S71, thirteen iu 1876, one in 1882, 
and one in 1883. 

The whaling captains with whom I have conversed on the subject earnestly request that I 
urge npoii the Dei)ai tmeut in the strongest terms the utility and necessity of such an establish- 
ment, iind promise in case of favorable action to leave each year a portion of their outtits to assist 
iu forming a depot of supplies, providing only that the Government will furnish a responsible per- 
son to take charge of the same. I have been assured that any of the whale ships will transport 
to Point Barrow without charge such materials and supplies as may be necessary for the statiou. 
The buildings left by Lieutenant Kay might be utilized, and with some small and inexpensive 
repairs made suitable for the purposes of a relief station. 

The fact that two volunteer crows, comjwsed iu part of men of Arctic exjierience, have come 
into this country to remain during the winter for commercial advantages should refute the gener- 
ally conceived idea of unendurable hardships, and silence any opposition that may be made to this 
most humane suggestion on that score. I desire to impress upon the Department the importance 
such a post would soon acquire, not only with reference to its value as a place of refuge for wrecked 
seamen, but as a means of checking illicit trade and collecting meteorological data and scientific 
information. The person iu charge and the keeper of the station, who would be ex officio iuspector 
of the customs, would soon be able to put a stop to the sale of liquor in the vicinity of the statiou, 
an item of no small importance in itself. I understand that Captain llerendeu and the crew that 
is now there might be willing to undertake the duty, in which case it would only be necessary to 
endow it with the projier powers and incorporate it into the Life-Saving Service. 

In my estimation there is no more worthy object around which our Government can throw a 
protecting arm than the whalemen frequenting the Arctic and encountering its perils, nor can I 
conceive of a project that would reflect more credit on the LifeSaving Service, forming such an 
important feature of it. 

Until July 23 time was employed in boarding and examining the vessels as they arrived. No 
contraband goods were found, notwithstanding our thorough search, excjept on board the bark 
Northern Light, Capt. James McKenuey, where the searching officer found tifteen gallons of a vile 
spirituous compound and ten gallons of fair quality American whisky. McKenney claimed that 
all of it was intended for the use of his officers and crew, and not for trading purposes. Deeming 
the whisky sufficient for the purpose claimed, I sealed the other up. Had not the quantity beeu 
so snmll I should have seized the vessel and sent her to San Francisco. 

The necessity of constantly moving to avoid the drifting ice had now so reduced the quantity 
of coal on board that I found it necessary to proceed to Port (Clarence for fuel.. About one-half 
of the fleet had been boarded and examined. The natives had considerable bone stored at Point 
Hope that they would trade only for whisky, and as whaling vessels were constantly passing and 
repassing this place 1 did not deem it advisable to leave it unguarded. I therefore directed Lieu- 
tenant Howison to take up his residence here with a detail of two men, and instructed him to use 
all possible diligence in preventing traffic iu contraband articles. 

I would respectfully state that some of the masters of the vessels boarded made no secret of 
having brought large (juantities of liquor into the Arctic for trMding i)urposcs, but had thrown it 
overboard before reaching the United States boundary line on h-aniing that a revenue-cutter was 
in these waters. 

I received here from one of the whalers three men belonging to tlie schooner Caleb Eaton, 
wrecked at Indian Point, Siberia, but was able to find a place for one on tlie steamer BcAa. The 
others, not desiring to ship on the whalers, I was obliged to retain on board. 

On the 24th I iirocecded to the southward, reaching Port Clarence July 30. 

I found thiit the ship Si/ren, C;ii)tain Crocker, having on board five hundred tons of coal 
destined for the use of vessels in this service during Arctic cruises, had arrived aud was engaged 
discharging the same. 

This coal has since beeu landed above high water mark, and, as per contract, I selected Point 
Spencer, at the entrance of the harbor, as the propei' site of tlie coaling station, there being seven 
fathoms of water within half a ship's length nftlie beach, thus facilitating the landing and taking 



12 CRUISE gP THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

of fuel. Without doubt tliis spot is tlie most favorable that caa be chosen for ^ho purpose 
inteuded. Spacious, with uniform soundiugs of from seven to nine fathoms, good holding bottom, 
easy of access, little frequented by heavy winds during the summer months, and affording 
excellent oitportunities for watering slu'i), Port Clarence possesses all the requirements of a good 
harbor, while its proximity to the Arctic fulfills the main condition requisite in a base of supt)lies. 

Viewing the matter in the same light that it appears to me, the Pacific Coast Steam Whaling 
Company, acting on the advice of its most experienced captains, has selected a site near to that 
of the Revenue Marine Service as a place of deposit for a cargo of coal for the use of its vessels. 

August 1, Lieutenaut Cook reported on board, having finished the duty to which he had been 
assigned, in connection with the establishment of the coaling station. 

On the same day I broke the seals placed on li(iuors on board the Northern Liyht, the quantity 
left open having been used. 

Having coaled ship and taken on board a supply of fresh water, we sailed August 2 for St, 
Michael's, where we arrived on the 3d, having stojjped en route at King's Island. The natives 
at the latter place seem to be in a prosperous condition. 

On the 4th we proceeded to Golowiu Bay, conveying the stores for the mining company, to 
which reference has been made. 

Here I was suri>rised to find the mainmast-head sprung. Upon lifting the main rigging and 
trestle-trees I found the mast-head completely gone under the trestle-trees by reason of dry-rot, and 
had precautious not been taken the mast-head would have fallen on deck when the trestle-trees 
were removed. 

Cutting the mast-head down to good wood, the ship's carpenter formed a new one, which, 
although shorter than the old, answered the purpose for the balance of the cruise, as it admitted of 
the setting of a reefed mainsail. The rigging being in good condition and desiring to avoid spoil- 
ing the gang for a new mast, I had the dead-eyes slipped out of their splices and set the rigging 
up with wire 8trai)s. In this manner a serviceable mast has been saved for the cruise, and the 
rigging can be used on the new spar which it will be necessary to purchase. 

Having completed these repairs, I proceeded to the westward, and on the 'Jth, 10th, and 11th 
of August visited St. Lawrence Island. Landings were made at the various villages and careful 
search instituted for further information concerning the almost total depopulation of this island, 
as well as to prosecute inquiries in regard to the whisky traffic. 

At the villages along the north shore no signs of living beings could be found, but the still- 
decaying bodies of these unfortunate Eskimos M'cre lying in and about the falling houses, and 
weapons, sledges, and canoes were still undisturbed. No native will touch a thing belonging to 
the dead, and years hence relics of these people will be found here unless they are removed sooner 
by white men. 

No new information of a positive character could be obtained, but I feel little hesitation in 
saying that the reports previously furnished the Departmeiit are in the main correct. 

Tracking along the shore to the northwest end of the island, we stopi)ed ofl' the village of 
Tchiboukak, where the vessel was visited by a large number of natives. I was pleased to note 
their healthy, cleanly, and prosperous condition, their full forms and faces showing that food was 
plentiful. A visit to the shore brought to light largo stores of dried fish and other eatables, and 
this, together with their excellent clothing, convinced me that they had taken warning by previous 
experience aiul furnished positive «^vidence, without the necessity of believing native assertion, 
that the whisky trader had not carried on his nefarious traHic the past two seasons. 

The publicity given by the Revenue Marine to the effects of this vile trade had probably induced 
the traders to keep away. 

On the 12th we reached Port Clarence. I found here on board the ship Syren four deserters 
from the whale-ship Daini, who had coine to the coaling station in a destitute condition. Captain 
Crocker, of the Syren, informed me that he did not have sufMcient supplies to warrant his retaining 
these men on board his vessel, and believing that they must starve if left on shore, motives of 
humanity prouqited me to take them on board. Alter having co.aled and watered ship, we left, 
August 15, for Kotzebue Sound. The whole shore of the sound was skirted in search of illegal 




WATERING SHIP AT CAPE THOMPSON. 




A SAD STORY. 



CRUISE or THE STEAJN4BR OOKWIN. 13 

traders, and stops were made at Cape Deceit, Chamisso Island, and Hotham Inlet, but no signs of 
traders were found. 

August 20 we watered ship at Cape Thompson, and proceeding on to Point Hope we picked 
up Lieutenant Howisou and boat's crew. Mr. Howison had boarded what vessels had come to the 
point without finding trade liquor on board, and had not been able to detect any attempt at illicit 
trade. From Mr. Howisou I received a letter that had been written me by Capt. E. E. Smith, 
master of the late steamer Jiowhead, informing me that he had been crushed by the ice thirty 
miles to the northward of Icy Cape, stating that he was in a destitute condition, and requesting 
the aid of the Corwin. Notwithstanding the thick fog that was prevailing at the time, we 
proceeded at once to the northward, arriving at the coal mine near Cape Sabine (where Captain 
Smith informed me he was) that night. On the following morning, witli Captain Smith on board, 
our northern course was resumed. Captain Smith made me acquainted with the following facts 
concerning the loss of his vessel, which I give as nearly as possible in his own words : 

"On Monday, August 11, 1881, at about 9 a. m., in latitude 70° 32'.uorth and longitude 161° 
27' west, and in lOJ fathoms of water, the Bowhead was made fast to a large cake of floating ice, 
starboard side to. There was a light northeast breeze blowing at the time and a current setting 
to the southwest at the rate of half a knot per hour. Fires were hauled and the boiler partially 
blown down for the purpose of repairing seventeen leaky tubes from which the water was running 
so rapidly as to flood and overrun the ash-pans. At meridian the wind had fallen to a calm and the 
weather had cleared up fine. At about 3 p. m. a cake of ice, drifting with a northeast current of 
about two knots, was observed coming towards me. 

" When about three-quarters of a mile distant I first perceived that it was liable to come in 
contact with us. I immediately proceeded to run lines and warp the vessel toward the eastern 
end of the cake to which she was attached, the end being but about two hundred yards distant. 
When within two-thirds of the ship's length to the end of the ice, the two cakes collided, nipping 
the vessel between them, raising her bodily, and heeling her at an angle of forty-five degrees to 
X^ort. Then, as the ice began to give way, a sharp corner was brought against the port side six to 
eight feet forward of the mizzen rigging, staving a hole below the water-line and between decks. 
Another point took against the rudder-post, stern-post, and deadwood, breaking the rudder-post 
off at the water-line, forcing the <Jeadwood up at a right angle to its position, bending the shaft to 
starboard, and splitting the sleeve and a three-inch seam in the stern-post from the main transom 
as far down as I could see. The crushing of the ice, the crashing of the timbers, and our appall- 
ing condition were enough to shock the strongest nerves, and, to add to the difficulties of our posi- 
tion, within five minutes of the collision a thick fog shut down, bringing with it a fresh southwest 
wind. The vessel began to make water immediately, and so rapidly that the engineer was unable 
to reach the valves of the donkey-pump, which were near the bottom of the vessel. It being e\i- 
dent that nothing could be done to save the ship (there being fifteen miles of packed ice between 
her and the shore), I at once proceeded to get the boats on the ice and prepared for leaving tlie 
ship, securing what provisions and clothing I could, as well as nautical instruments, ship's papers, 
log, etc. 

" In a few minutes the cakes separated, the vessel then righting to an eight to ten degrees 
list to port. 

"After much difficulty we succeeded in getting the boats to the edge of the ice, where we 
could launch them. By this time, about 5 p. ni., the fog lifted, and we were delighted to see two 
steamers about four miles distant to the westward. Signals of distress were set, aud, launching 
our boats, we proceeded towards the vessels, abandoning the ship. Seeing our signals, the steam- 
ers, which proved to be the N'arn-hal and linlena, met us, took us on board, and steamed towards 
the wreck. On our arrival at tlie Howhcad, there being danger of the vessel's masts sinking our 
boats in case she fell on her beam's ends, the wreck was towed clear of the ice and then boarded 
in the hopes of saving provisions. We found so much water in the hold, however, that we were 
unable to move anything of value. Thick fog had now set in again. The vessel settled rapidly in 
the water, owing to the quantity of coal and iron in her, and deeming it dangerous to remain in 
proximity, it was determined to leave her. The last seen of her was at about 7.30 p. m., and the 
water was then over her port rail and up to the port side of her main hatch coamings. Dividing 



14 CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

the officers and crew up between the Nanrhal and Bcvlena, these two vessels steamed to the south- 
ward for the purpose of obtaining the relief and assistance of the U. S. steamer Cor win. At about 
8 a. m. on Wednesday, August 13, the fog lifted (it having been thick since leaving the wreck), 
and we found ourselves about fifteen miles northeast of the coal mine near Cape Sabine." 

After leaving Captain Smith and a boat's crew the Narwhal steamed to Point Hope for the 
purpose of transmitting the news of the wreck to the Corwin through Lieutenant Howison. 

The Bowhead was one of the strongest and best-built vessels in the fleet. She was but two 
years old, was constructed expressly for the service in which she was employed, antl was one of 
the last vessels that one familiar with Arctic voyaging would suppose would have an accident 
happen to her; yet in ten minutes she was a total wreck, and her ofticcrs and crew had only time 
to escape scantily clothed. She was comnuiuded by Capl. E. E. Smith, formerly icepilot of tlie 
a man with the reputation of being second to none in skill and knowledge of Arctic Corwin, navi- 
gation. 

At 3 p. m. of the 21st we reached the ice, the dense fog wliicli had been prevailing having pre- 
vented its being seen until we were, close upon it. From this tirTie until near midnight of the L'L'd 
we were working to the northward through ice that continually gniw heavier as we advanced. 
Our progress was slow and laborious and was rendered doubly hazardous by changing currents 
and thick fog. At 11 p. m. the vessel was brought to anchor under Point Belcher near several ves- 
sels, their i)resence having been made known to us by their bells. These vessels were immediately 
boarded for the purpose of finding out the whereabouts of the crew of the Bowhead. I found 
considerable excitement existing on these vessels, owing to the fact that several of the fleet were 
supiiosed to have been carried by strong currents and drifting ice into the pack, and if such was the 
case their loss was certain. Upon learning that the wrecked crew had been divided among the 
other vessels and were therefore perfectly safe for the time being, I resolved to satisfy mysiHf of 
the truth of these alarming rumors and to offer all possible assistance to such as might re(iuire it. 
The bark Helen Marr having anchored close inshore where drifting ice in a rapidly-moving current 
was liable to drag her ashore, was, upon the request of her master, towed to a safe position. One 
by one the 'uissing vessels were sought out until all were known to be safe. All of this duty was 
performed aniotig heavy ground and drift-ice and between tlie shore and main ])ack, the latter being 
only from six to fifteen miles distant from the former. Extreme care was necessary in handling the 
vessel while working through these leads. I returned to the bark Dawn the four deserters belong- 
ing to her whom I had received from the shij) Syren. I received from the same vessel two of the 
Boichead'fmriiw. On the bark Wanderer one more wrecked man was found and three \Yere taken 
from the steamer Orca. ' . 

The good services of our surgeon were called into requisition to attend one man on the Daren, 
three on the Fleetwing, and three on the Ilunter. 

At 5 a. m. of the 24th the steamer Thrasher was s])oken and t wo of the wrecked men were taken 
from her. At 7 a. m. two vessels apparantlj^ in a dangerous jjosition close inshore were observed 
and immediate steps taken to reach them. After considerable diflieulty and encountering no 
little danger we got near enough to speak them and found them to be the Gazelle and ]\lahel 
Although firndy embedded in the ice, their masters did not consider their position one of ]>eriU and 
the Corwin\s head was again turned to the northward. 

During the afternoon of the 24th the wind had been freshening up from the westward with 
snow squalls and overcast, threatening weather, and by the time I had reached latitude 71° 17' 
north (ten miles distant from Point Marrow) I found further i)rogress impossible. 

The j>ack was now moving inshore, and the leads began to close so rai)i(lly that 1 found it 
necessary to order inci-eased speed and carry all sail to escape from the imminent danger that 
threatened us. Just before we turned the steam-whalers that had ventured to the northward 
with us becajne alarmed and an exciting race of twi'uty miles between ice and steam comnieneed. 

The leads most clear of ice were sought with as much care as the necessity for haste would 
permit, but large cakes of ice frequently almost blocked up the way. Down through the narrow 
passages, with rapidly turning screws, long streams of black smoke stretching out over the (piar- 
ters, and all fore-and-aft sail bellying to the stiff southwest breeze, the steanu'rs were i)us!i('(l for 
a position of safety. Now one would go full speed into some large piece, and when almost brought 




POINT BARROW NATIVES. 



CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 15 

to a standstill the cake would split and the two parts shoot from each other in separation ; again 
some vessel would come to a staudstill in an unruly inece, and a following vessel would shift her 
course and strike the binding ice with such judgment and skill as to loosen the former and yet not 
stop her own progress ; now one vessel woukl slide broadside up on a huge piece and roll covering- 
boards under, while another would foi-ce her bows high up out of the water until the ice broke 
and the piecfes were forced up from under her bottom. On board these ships little noise was 
heard except the orders of the officers. What conversation was carried on was in an undertone, 
the excitement being so intense as to check the naturally loud tones of the sailors. Each saw and 
appreciated the danger, and with one accord drew a long breath of relief when a place of apparent 
safety had been reached. At 7.35 we had got inside the ground-ice and made fast to a large rtoe, 
Point Franklin bearing south, true, distant six miles. Here we were soon joined by the Orca, 
Mary and Helen, Belvidere, Bwlena, and Lucretia. 

At 7 a. m. of the 25th, having received from the Bmlena eleven of the Bowheadh crew (making 
twenty-two all told, including the two men from the Caleb Eaton), rendered medical assistance to 
one man belonging to the steamer Belvidere, and taken on board the home mail of the fleet, lines 
were cast oft' and the CorioMs head was turned to the southward. Working through the ice under 
varying speeds, we reached the coal-mine near Cape Sabine at 11.30 a. m. of the 26th. Here we 
stopped long enough to take on board seven more of the wrecked men and proceeded to t he south- 
ward, stopping at Cai>e Thomi^son to water ship. Here several dead bodies of natives were found 
in a house and about the banks of the stream. It is probable that they had partaken of some 
poisonous substance, as they had been well but a short time before. There was no evidence of 
violence and food was plentiful. 

A prospectiug paity found evidence of a fair quality of coal in the bluffs forming the cape, 
but owing to the condition of the ground it was not possible to determine the extent of the seam. 

On the 28th the Corwin reached Hotham Inlet, and on the 29th Lieutenant Cantwell and party 
returned on board. A report covering the operations of these gentlemen since leaving the Corwin, 
July 10, is herewith inclosed. 

September 1 and 2 I coaled and watered ship at Port Clarence, having left the Arctic August 
30. On the -Ith I arrived at St. Michael's. Here I found the Golowin Bay miners, heretofore 
mentioned, and an army scout in the employ of General Nelson A. Miles, who desired to retnry to 
San Francisco. For reasons already given I was constrained to furnish them passage. 

On the same evening I proceeded to the southward and westward, and on the morning of the 
Sih arrived at St. Paul Island. After anchoring I was handed a letter from Lieutenant Lutz, a 
copy of which has been forwarded to the Department. 

I learned from U. S. Special Agent Glidden that there had been two other suspicions vessels 
about the islands and that one had been chased by Mr. Lutz. He fired upon her and his shots 
were returned, quite a fiisilade being maintained for some time. At least one ball struck the 
pursuing schooner. 

I desire to call the attention of the Department to the courage displayed by Mr. Lutz in board- 
ing and seizing with but two nu'.n this well-manned and well-armed vessel, and to express my 
approbation of the course he has i)ursued throughout. The qualities of character that he has 
shown are such as I deemed him possessed of wheu I selected him for the important duty of guard- 
ing the islands. 

Having taken on board the six white and nine Japanese prisoners left at St. Paul by Mr. 
Lutz on the 9th, I visited St. George Island. Mr. Glidden did not think the Corwin's presence 
was required any longer about the islands. * 

On September 10 1 visited Bogoslov for the purpose of again examining the island and noting 
any changes that might have occurred. Quite a number of new features attracted our attention, 
and the report of Dr. Yemans on the subject is herewitli inclosed. 

On the 11th we arrived at Ounalaska. The presence of so many i)eople on board (ninety- 
eight all told) had now so reduced the quantity of rations that I found it necessary to purchase 
provisions here. Properly certified vouchers for the amount of these bills have been forwarded to 
the Department. 



16 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

Haviug learned that by proceeding to Belkofsky I conld obtain definite information of viola- 
tion ot law, on the 12th I left for that place, arriving there on the 14th. The most searching 
inquiries, however, dev.lopcd nothing. On the following day I cruised to the eastward, touching 
at Unga and Saud Point. On tlic IGth I visited Coal Harbor. While cruising about iiniong 
these islands I boarded and examined all the vessels encountered, without finding evidence of 
other than legitimate trade. 

September 20 I returned to Ounalaska, and received by the steamer St. Paul a letter from 
the Department under date of August 21, inclosing a copy of a letter from Jlr. Moulton, a special 
agent at the seal islands. In reference thereto I would respectfully state that I had already 
boarded the schooner Vandcrbilt without finding evidence of illegal traffic. Special Agent Glid- 
den, at St. Paul, did not think there would be any trouble at that place, and I am satisfied if any 
raid is attempted on tiie seal rookeries that the Government force on the island is amply suflicient 
to prevent it if anything like a respectable lookout is kept. 

From the company's agent at Ounalaska I learned that a new volcano had been seen by Cap- 
tain Ilague, of the steamer Dora, on Tchuginadok Island (one of the Four Mountains), in latitude 
52° 4S' north and longitude 169° 55' west. Volcanoes in active operation have frequently been 
observed in these mountains, but for the past four years they have been inactive. Wliether the 
one reported is a new eru|)tiou or an old crater returned to activity the agent was unable to say. 
As much as I desired to visit and examine this phenomenon, the very crowded condition of the 
vessel and the suffering of my crew and passengers precluded the idea. At the date of my 
leaving, a day without rain was an exception in these latitudes, and severe storms were frequent. 
On September 24 one of the most severe gales that it has ever been my fortune to witness in these 
waters visited Ounalaska. In this small land-locked and mountain-walled harbor the water was 
lashed into foam by the fury of tlie wind ; the air was filled mast-head high with moisture picked 
up from the surface, and it seemed almost impossible that the two chains by which wo were 
moored could stand the shock of the descending " wooleys." The accommodations of the vessel 
gave shelter from rain, storms, and frosts to only one half of the people on board at one and tiie 
same time; the men were scantily clad, and complaints to the surgeon were becoming every 
day more frequent. Fearing that an epidemic might arise from the damp and overcrowded 
quarters, inwhich opinion I was sustained by Dr. Yemans, I considered a return to San Fran- 
cisco imperative. 

There was no means of getting these people to San Francisco other than on the Curwin. Tiie 
steamer St. Paul was bound to Petropaulowski, in Asia, and the steamer Dora had not space and 
would not sail until November. At Ounalaska accommodations and food for so large a number 
of persons could not be supplied for any length of time, and if there had been I sliould not have 
felt justified in leaving these people here unguarded where there is no protection of the law. 

Having coaled and watered ship, I left for San Francisco September 25, arriving at the port 
of destination October 5, after an unusually pleasant voyage. 

On my arrival I found that Lieutenant Lutz had brought the schooner Adele safe to this port, 
and had made arrangements for turning her over to the proper oflicers, in compliance with orders 
that 1 had issued for his guidance. 

I wish to again call the attention of the Department to the injustice tliat is being done the 
harmless people of northern Alaska by depriving them of breecli-loading arms. No evil results 
can come of the repeal of the law in so far as it applies to them, and a manifest act of humanity 
would be accomplished by so doing. They are a peaceful race. They have no tribal afiiliations 
and no chiefs, tlieir "omalik" being the head" of a family. They live apart in small villages; 
cDinmunication is dilUcult, and their languages dift'erent. With the exception of She-sho lik, a 
I own on Kotzebne Sound, where tlioy congregate during the summer to the number of twelve lo 
fillcen huiidred for the double purpose of catching salmon and white whale and trading, no con 
siderable number of them are ever together, and it is not within the range of possibility that any 
combination can be effected for warlike purposes. 

Again the wholes.ale slaughter of the walrus by whalers has so diminished the numbers of that 
aquatic mammal as to almost deprive these people of their main source of animal food. Tliose 




OUNALASKA. 




OUNALASKA. 



CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. 17 

that are left have become so wild that they can seldom be brought within range of the spear or 
shotgun. 

Auj- one at all familiar with the use of arms knows how difficult it is to charge a muzzle-load- 
ing gmi in cold weather, yet these natives of a polar climate are obliged by law to depend upon 
this weapon for their principal means of obtaining food and clothing where game has been largely 
decreased by the very people who forbid them the use of modern arms. In the winter a muzzle- 
loading gun, after being subjected to a temperature of sixty to seventy degrees below zero, can not 
be carried into a house or brought near a fire if loaded, as the frost in the barrel will dampen the 
powder and render the charge worthless. 

Occasionally breech-loadiug rifles of the latest patterns are seen iu their boats, and the white 
men coming in contact with the natives raise no objection whatever to their retaining these 
improved arms. I have no doubt that they have quite a number of these rifles in their possession, 
and to seize them would be an act of injustice, as the Indians have bought them in good faith and 
can not be made to understand why they should not have them. 

For like reasons there should be no restrictions on the sale of cartridges. At present those 
having rifles are obliged to pay a price for cartridges to fit their arm so high as to almost be equiv- 
alent to the purchase of a new rifle. 

I believe that no good argument cau be adduced for keeping these weapons out of their lawful 
reach, while the dictates of reason and the promptings of human instincts would seem to demand 
their unrestricted sale. In this opinion I am joined by all who are acquainted with the habits, 
customs, and needs of these people, and quite a number of the whaling captains indulge in much 
unfavorable criticism of the law. 

Until some action shall be taken on this subject, I would respectfully request that the Depart- 
ment fix nijon some limit to the number of rifles and quantity of fixed ammunition to be used in 
walrus hunting and for the purpose of sustaining life in case of disaster that should be allowed in 
the outfits of vessels coming into these waters. 

WEISEY TRAFFIC. 

Owing to the continued and determined efforts of the Corwin, and notwithstanding the lax 
enforcement of the law regarding liquor permits to vessels clearing for this Territory, I am happy 
to state that the whisky trafiSc in northern Alaska has almost entirely ceased. The beneficial 
effects of our annual cruises are apparent iu the changed condition of the Eskimos. Sickness has 
decreased ; the people are better clothed ; more attention is paid to their boats ; food is plentiful ; 
furs, bone, and ivory for trade are abuudant, and the large number of healthy young children in 
every village dissipates former fears that the race might become extinct. 

Satisfactory as is the present state of affairs, it can be continued only by constant and united 
work. If ettbrts to restrain the trade once cease the natural appetite of the natives for alcohol, 
aided by the white man's greed for gain, will soon cause it to revert to its former terrible condition. 

Most of the whalemen desire to see its total suppression, as it places those men who, from 
conscientious motives and a desire to comply with the law, will not sell it at a disadvantage with, 
the unscrupulous in competition for the trade in bone, ivory, and furs. 

The natives fully understand that we come to suppress this trade and that no liquor cau be 
got on board the Corwin, even if they beg for it on their knees, as they frequently have done. 
When they see our flag they point to it and say, " Oomiiik'-puck pe'-chuck tou' i-ka" (no whisky 
ship), ami in describing us to others they generally use this expression. Naturally peaceful, of a 
kindly and hospitable disposition, and seldom, if ever, quarrelsome when sober, under the influence 
of a small (juautity of liquor they become demoniac. The most Itrntal fights occur when they are 
in this condition. Their long, sharp hunting-knives make frightful wounds, and their rifles are 
used without stint and often with deadly effect. In former years our surgeon has often been called 
upon to dress these wounds. On the bodies of several Indians I have seen marks of bullet wounds 
received in these drunken brawls, and the omalik of the Uiomedes, a comparatively young man, 
bears three deep scars which he proudly told me he had received iu fights, and as proudly boasted 
of having killed two men while drunk. 
H. Mis. 002 3 



18 OKUISE Ob- THE STEAMEli CORWIN. 

The wives of these natives, who are usually treated with more consideratiou than we sho\ild 
expect they would receive from their savage lords, are frequently brutally beaten when liquor has 
frenzied the men, and it was with unmixed pleasure that, on the single occasion where we were 
called upon to make a seizure thi§ year, I noticed that the women recognized us as their friends, 
used e\ery exertion to assist us in our search, and seemed grateful that powerful friends wt-re 
among them who were ready and willing to do what could be done to soften the hardships of their 
savage life. 'When I think that citizens of my own country have been the prime means of 
adding this great burden to the load these simi)le people have to bear, I feel that no exertion can 
be too great and no vigilance too exacting if it will but bring to punishment these unprincipled 
traders. If captured, no leniency should be extended to them. 

The only trouble that has ever occurred between the whites and natives has been when tlie 
latter were under the influence of liquor. There is a grain of consolation in the fact that 
usually those who furnished the whisky were the ones to sutt'er. 

In order that the Department may be fully informed of all phases of this nefarious trade, I 
would state that some of the "whalers" had beeu accustomed in the "between seasons" to pur- 
chase in Honolulu, and in the summer to sell in these waters, a vile compound called Honolulu 
rum, thus adding to their violation of the Indian trade law the crime of smuggling. This liquor 
is useless as medicine, serving it to the crew would be a species of villainy, and its i)resencc on 
board should subject a vessel to seizure, as it virtually carries with it the intention to trade. Two 
or three of the whaling captains openly boasted of having thrown overboard one to two hundred 
gallons of this rum when they heard the Coricin had reached the Arctic before them. 

I would respectfully recommend that the Department fix upon some quantity of liquor as 
sufiScieut for ship's uses and medicinal purposes of these vessels; that the present law in regard 
to i)rocuriug a permit to carry liquors from a collector of customs be rigidly enforced, and that 
masters of vessels be required to carefully account for every gallon they take on board. Vessels 
then found in these waters without a permit or with more than the authorized quantity of liquor 
on board can be seized and sent to San Francisco. 

At present it is exceedingly difiicult to determine what quantity of alcohol should subject a 
vessel to seizure, and I should hesitate to break up what might be a profitable voyage for a small 
quantity of liquor that perhaps might be considered I'easonable by another. 

CENSUS OF ESKIMOS. 

It is almost impossible to arrive at anything like a correct estimate of the number of natives 
in the Territory of Alaska. The people are migratory and during the open season of the year are 
in the interior hunting. With the exception of She sba lik, a village near Hotham Inlet, already 
mentioned, the settlements are nearly depopulated. The native idea of numbers is extremely 
vague and no dependence can be placed upon their estimates. As a result of my observations, 
covering a period of nearly fifteen years, I should say that there was not far from 3,000 of these 
people living along the coast and about 20,000 altogether in the Territory. 

We can obtain more definite information in regard to the Aleuts and Creoles by means of tiie 
"Russian Church statistics. These people are graduali.y falling off in numbers and there are now 
about 3,800. This decrease is probably due to the introduction of new diseases, consequent upon 
their association with whites and changes in habits and methods of living. Whether or not they 
will continue to decrease until they gradually become extinct, as has been the case with our east- 
ern Indians, or finally reach a stage where their constitutions become accustomed to civilization 
and increase again, is an interesting problem that only time, of course, can solve. That tliey take 
more kindly than the native American to our methods of living is more than evident, and [lerhaps 
with i)roper fostering care on the part of the Government they may become fully civilized and the 
race may be preserved. 

ATTOU ISLAND. 

Attou is no longer of any importance, and I would repectfnlly suggest that hereafter the ques- 
tion of an animal visit there be left to the judgment of the commanding officer of this vessel. Its 
principal importance has depended on the number of otter taken there. Last year but twenty 




NATIVES AT SHESHALIK, KOTZEBUE SOUND. 







ESKIMO CAMP, KOTZEBUE SOUND. 



CKUISE OF THE STEAMER OORWIN. 19 

were captured altogether, and I understand that the natives are to be removed elsewhere this 
fall, it having been demonstrated that a continuation of the settlement was unprofitable. The 
crowded condition of the Corwin prevented a visit there this year, but 1 am confideut it would 
have been fruitless in results if made. 

VALVE PLACED UPON OUR SERVICES BT WBALEMEN. 

* 

That the whalemen fully appreciate the services of the cutter in Arctic waters is beyond ques- 
tion. On every side one hears favorable comments on the spirit of enterprise that has led the 
Department to send one of its vessels yearly to these waters with the partial object in view of 
being of assistance to whalemen in case of disaster. The former distrust and professional jealousy 
of the service, due to the natural dislike men have of being kept under surveillance, have almost 
entirely disappeared, the fact being generally recognized that we are friends in need, and while 
we will conscientiously uphold the laws we have taken an oath to enforce, we are ever ready to be 
of such assistance as lies in our power to those who are in danger or distress. 

As soon as the Boirhead was crashed steps were taken to communicate with this ship, and I 
believe that I am justified in saying that the prompt response of the Corwin merited the meed of 
praise that she has received. Pushing to the northward through fog and snow and ice, her efforts 
to be of service did not cease until the northern limits of navigation had been reached, the 
wrecked crew all on her decks, and every vessel in the fleet found to be safe. 

While among the fleet the services of our surgeon were daily called into requisition to attend 
the sick and disabled. In a climate so rigorous and in the pursuit of a business so liable to acci- 
dent there are cases occurring frequently that require more than the simple attention of a master 
of a vessel. We have been able to supply this need, and I am pleased to report that I believe the 
amount of good accomplished has far more than repaid the outlay of time and attention and has 
been fully appreciated by those upon whom it was bestowed. 

THE SEAOTTEB. 

« 
This fur-bearing animal is gradually leaving the grounds it formerly frequented and is now 

being found principally on the kelp banks outlying the Choumagin Islands, in the vicinity of Cape 
Flattery, and even as far south as the coast of California. The persistency with which they have 
been hunted by the natives, by whites married to native women, and by vessels fitted out for that 
purpose has materially reduced their numbers and caused them to seek safer feeding grounds. 
Not only have these hunters used the breech-loading rifle in taking this animal, but I am credibly 
informed that nets made of salmon-twine, set en echelon along the beaches where the otter is accus- 
tomed to haul out, are now being used. If this practice is continutd Cor a few years longer none 
will be found among the islands, and, as the Aleuts live almost entirely upon the profits derived 
from the sale of the skins, extreme poverty, if not actual starvation, must follow upon their exter- 
mination. 

Quite a number of breech-loading arms are in the hands of the people here, and more are being 
brought in each year. Some are smuggled in by fishermen and other vessels coming here, and the 
large extent of territory precludes the possibility of stopping it entirely. Every year a few are 
brought in on permits obtained by parties in San Francisco, and either the i>ersons who obtain 
these permits allow others to use them or on leaving the Territory are tempted by the high price 
of arms to dispose of them. This evil may be remedied somewhat by the presence of another 
vessel in these waters, but that it can be wholly stopped under the present law is extremely 
doubtful. 

Allowing white men who are married to native women to hunt is but offering a premium for 
bigamy and desertion. While the law is commendable in theory, it will not work in practice. 
Unprincipled white hunters, tempted by the great value of otter skins, come here and marry the 
simiile girls, force them to accompany them on their hunting trips and do their cooking and work 
for them, bring two or three children into the world, and then leave their families to get their 
living as best they gan, while they themselves return to enjoy their earnings with other wives in 



20 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

civilization. There is not one cbauce in a thousand of these criminals being brought to justice. 
The machinery of the hiw in this Territory is not yet iu such working order as to hunt out and 
arrest persons guilty of such offenses, and it is extremely doubtful if it reaches that perfection for 
years. That the country is so isolated, so sparsely settled, and the language of the natives so 
difficult to acquire, are all obstacles that will prevent the enforcement of the marriage laws. 

• WOBK FOR TWO VESSELS. 

The rapidly increasing interests of this portion of the country, in conjunction with the neces- 
sarily widely spread operations of the service, demand the presence of another vessel in these 
waters during the summer mouths in order to properly enforce the law and protect Government 
rights. It is simply impossible for one vessel to prevent illicit trade and succor distressed seamen 
in the Arctic, and guard the seal islands and stop the illegal taking of otter and introduction of 
arms on the coast of the Alaskan peninsula and among the adjacent islands. These two theaters 
of action are a thousand and more miles apart, yet the nature of the duty to be performed in both 
is such that the same attention is demanded at the same time. 

During the cruise of this year I have not been able to give the attention 1 desired to the 
southern portion of the cruising ground, and I should not have been able to do so even if our 
assistance had not beep required by the Bowhead. 

The Department is fully aware that, as nobly as this little vessel has accomidished the work 
placed upon her, her accommodations are wholly insufficient to meet the requirements of the service, 
and it did not require the convincing circumstances of this year to demonstrate the necessity 
of a larger vessel; but that such a vessel, even if she be as large as a man-of-war, can cover tlie 
whole ground, as seems to be the opinion of some, is an absurdity that only requires a comparison 
of the duty to be performed with the territory requiring attention to make it manifest. 

It is my judgment that with one vessel to cruise from the seal islands to the northward and 
in the Arctic, and another to cruise from Sitka to the seal islands, the ground can be covered as 
it should be, and that the increased efficiency with which Government interests would be guarded 
would more than justify the additional expense. • 

STEAMLAUNCH. 

The Corwin is entirely too small to carry a steam-launch. It takes up one whole side of the 
quarter-deck room that is needed in handling the ship— and the usefulness of the one we now have 
is limited. The boiler and machinery are so heavy that it can not be u.sed in rough water ; if scut 
on a boat expedition it carries an insufficient supply of fuel and can not be hauled up on the beach, 
and it can not be lowered or takeu on board in a sea way without great risk of being broken uj). 
If obliged to desert ship we would have to abandon it, and a well-tittod sail-boat would be, iu 
every respect, more useful and desirable. 

SCIENTIFIC REPORTS. 

During our cruises in these waters many items of general interest and facts that would be of 
value to the scientific world can undoubtedly bo collected, but some one thoroughly familiar with 
the subjects to be handled and in collecting and arranging data should accompany the vessel for 
that purpose. My mind is so occupied and engrossed with the care of the vessel, and my system 
so burdened by fatigue aud exposure incident to the discharge of my duties, which frequeutly 
require my presence on deck almost continuously for days, and at times twelve, eighteen, and 
even twenty-four hours at the masthead, that I am wholly incapacitated for readiug or noticing 
with proper care events that como under my observation. 

At present I am obliged to assign the various subjects to those of the officers that I deem 
most competent to handle them. While on watch the attention of the gentlemen must be wholly 
given to the ship, and when below the performance of their multifarious professional duties 




NATIVE HOUSE AT POINT HOPE, ALASKA. 




GROUP OF ESKIMOS, POINT HOPE. 



0EUI8E OF THE STEAMER (JOEWIN. 21 

requires the larger portion of such time as they are not unfitted for mental work by the effects 
of the chill of the damp, icy atmosphere. 

Special preparation is necessary in order to properly qualify one to do any of these subjects 
justice, aud ofiBcers of this service have neither time nor opportunity for such study. It is my 
opinion that the interests of the vessel would be better served aud the results would be more 
satisfactory to the Department if a chronicler was assigned to this vessel during the cruises and 
until such time as complete reports could be forwarded. 

The shotguns purchased by authority of the Department before we left San Francisco have 
proved to be of the greatest value and are an acquisition to the ship that I should be loath to part 
with. They have enabled us to obtain game for all hands aft, a matter of no small moment in 
these latitudes, besides being the mainstay upon which we should have to depend in case of acci- 
dent to the ship. No vessel, aud especially one belonging to the Government, should go to the 
Arctic without them, as the lives of all on board are rendered doubly secure by their presence. 
With these guns, plenty of ammunition, and the assistance of the natives, a wrecked crew might 
remain in the Arctic over winter with comparative safety. 

SROWDED CONDITION OF VESSEL. 

No description can fully convey an adequate idea of the crowded condition of the Corwin on 
hethomeward trip this season. 

In my cabin were' Captain Smith, of the Bowhead, and Mr. Hawley, superintendent of the 
Omalik Mining Company, an old gentleman, to whom I granted this privilege out of respect for 
his years and consideration for his feeble condition. 

In the wardroom were eight ofiicers, the surgeon, pilot, and chief officer of the Bowhead. 
Three of the staterooms having double berths had two officers in each, and in the area of the 
wardroom were three swinging cots that completely filled its beam. The officers in turning in 
and out had almost to crawl on their hands aud knees to get under these cots. There was not 
room at the wardroom table for all to eat at once. The second officer of the wrecked vessel slept 
in a locker out of the engine-room. The master of the seized schooner and one of the white 
prisoners slept in the pilothouse. One of the miners slept in the steam-launch. Two firemen 
slept in the shaft-alley aud three or four men in the steam-drum room. 

Four Japanese slept in the paint locker and on coils of rope under the top-gallant forecastle. 
The sail locker on the berth-deck was cleared out and two berths put in it, and this, together with 
the petty officers' rooms, was filled with the officers of the wrecked vessel. The two quartermas- 
ters slept in their locker. The rest of the men were divided iuto watches, but when one watch 
was below, together with our servants and those who stood no watch, the hammocks were all full, 
the lockers on both sides were filled with sleepers, and quite a number of them had to place their 
blankets on the deck. 

In order to feed them it was necessary to spread three sets of messes and about two hours were 
required at each meal. The cooking accommodations in the galley were sadly deficient. The 
decks were constantly wet either by rain or the swash of the sea, and opportunities for drying or 
airing the quarters, forward or aft, were few. 

Everything that we could possibly do to make these people comfortable was done, but the 
bad weather which we experienced, combined with the narrow limits of the ship, rendered their 
condition anything but pleasant. Notwithstanding the many discomforts and hardsliips which 
they were obliged to undergo, the wrecked men seemed to appreciate the fact that we were doing 
all we could for them and kept cheerful under the trying circumstances to which they were sub- 
jected. 

It gives me pleasure to testify to the manner in which our own crew suffered the inconven- 
iences to which they were put by having so many strangers on board. With that forgetfulness 
of self that so characterizes a sailor when brother mariners are in distress, they seemed to vie with 
each other in rendering the wrecked men comfortable and to feel that a portion of the credit of 
assistance belonged to themselves. 



22 CKUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. 

NAVIGATION, WEATBER, AND CUBBENTS. 

In my previous experience in the Arctic I have never seen a season like the past. From the 
time of first reaching the ice up to leaving the Arctic dense fog has been almost constant. Cur- 
rents that have hitherto been considered permanent in direction, if not in force, have become 
erratic, and others have entirely failed. The ice fell hack before the sun's atlvance slowly and 
compactly. For three weeks after we reached the Dionrede Islands it refused entrance to Koizebue 
Sound, and three weeks later still it was hanging with discouraging tenacity around Point Hope. 
It was unsafe to anchor with any but a short scope, moving steam had to be kejit, and constant 
vigilance exercised to i)rcveut being dragged ashore by fields of ice moving in the rapid and 
changing currents. For weeks at a time it was impossible to take observations, dead reckoning 
was almost worthless, owing to the continual changes in force and direction of the currents, and 
the safety of the ship depended entirely on the constant use of the lead. Fortunaiely for those 
who aie obliged to sail this frozen ocean, the depth of water is not so great but what bottom can 
always bo obtained, and the proximity of land is indicated by regular shoaling with but few 
exceptions. Yet with this aid and the best charts that we have, several years' experience is nec- 
essary to enable the navigator to judge with any degree of precision the position of his ship. Any 
one at all familiar with coasting knows how diflficult it is to recognize land in a fog where marks 
are well defined — high blnfifs often appearing like low beaches and small rocks looming to gigantic 
size, while the general contour of the small portion of shore visible may be taken for almost any 
land that one expects to make. How much more difficult must it be where the formation of the 
shore for miles ditters but little, as is the ease in the Arctic. 

Among the best landmarks that we have in these northern waters are the bird rookeries. 
There is one at King's Island, one at the Diomedes, one at Cape Seppings, one at Cape Thompson, 
and one at Cape Lisburne. The distance between these rookeries enables one to form a verj 
accurate idea of the one he is approaching, while the cries of birds congregated at them admirably 
answers the purpose of a fog-signal. With one or two exceptions these are the only aids to navi- 
gation in this foggy, unsurveyed, and dangerous sea. 

In the shallow waters of this ocean the effect of the wind on the currents is, perhaps, more 
mark«!d than in any other portion of the globe. A moderate wind of but few hours' duration will 
produce a current in the direction in which it blows and change the set and velocity of all currents 
within Its range. The quarter from which a coming wind will blow can usually be foretold 
several hours by watching the drift of the ice in the vicinity of the ship. It is unsafe to lay down 
any rules or assert that any current will be found to be setting in a specific direction. The ship- 
master must exercise constant vigilance, pass sleepless nights, note and intelligently interpret the 
smallest changes in wind, weather, and sea in order to insure with any degree of certainty the 
safety of his vessel. 

It is work like this, together with exposure to the severity ol the climate, that soon ages a 
man and breaks down his constitution. In the whaling service the wear and tear ui)on the systems 
of officers coming to these waters is recognized and compensated, masters of vessels frequently 
receiving seven to eight thousand dollars per year and their mates in proportion, the amount, 
however, depending on the number of whales caught. It is the prospect of receiving such large 
pay that induces men to run the risks and endure the hardships of Arctic voyaging. 

Inside the Arctic circle snow has fallen all the past season, and it may almost be said that there 
has been no summer. As late as August 27 ice was within a few miles of Cape Sabine and at 
the Sea-Horse Ishmds it was heavy and dangerous. 

The pack at this time was still to the southward of Point Barrow, and there were few indica- 
tions that vessels would be able to go to the eastward of that place this season. During the 
latter part of our stay the weather was exceptionally severe. About the Fox Islands heavy 
storms were frequent and rain almost incessant. Advices received in San Francisco since my 
arrival confirmed my opinion as to the vessel's being able to weather Point Barrow this year. 

As only experience in these waters can qualify an officer for taking care of a vessel in them, 
I would resjjectfully suggest to the Department that there should always be on this vessel one 
officer who has served during two cruises and one, one cruise. 




TRADING SCHOONER SAN JOS^ IN THE ICE. 




WHALERS IN FLOE ICE, ARCTIC OCEAN. 



CKUISE OF THE STEAMEK COKWIN. 



23 



THE ICE. 



Among tbe ice terms in use by whalemen and those frequenting the Arctic on this side of the 
continent the following, with their significations, are the most common : 



Ice is calving when small pieces break oif from the 
bottom aucl rise to the surface of tbe water. 

A lead is a strip of navigable water opening into the 
pack. 

A pocket 18 a short opening into the ice and terminating 
against solid or thick ice. This is also sometimes termed 
a hlind lead. 

Hummocky ice is rough, uneven ice. 

Porridge ice is small, finely ground-up Ice. 

Young porridge is ice just forming. 

Waking is the following of another vessel through leads 
and slack ice. 

Bucking is backing off and ramming ice in order to 
break a way through it. 

Tracking is following along the edge of the ice-pack. 



A Jloe is a large piece of floating ice. 

Afield is a large body of ice that can be seen around. 

Land floe is ice frozen fast to the shore. 

Packed ice is small pieces closed together and held by 
the pressure of wind and currents. 

Ice-blink is a peculiar pale yellow reflection on the 
sky and indicates the presence of ice at a distance. 

The ice-pack is that large body of solid ice extending 
across the whole sea and beyond which it ia impossible 
to advance. 

Slack ice is detached so that it can be worked through. 
Ice is said to be slacking when it begins to open so as to 
be navigable. 

Ice is said to be nipping when it begins to close by 
reason of the action of winds or currents so as to prevent 
the passage of a vessel. 

The experience of many years in the Arctic has demonstrated the fact that no rules whatever 
can be given as to the time of the breaking up of the ice. The severity of the winter, the time at 
which spring weather opens, and tbe begiuuiug of southerly winds that break up the ice, all have 
their influence in goveiuiug this time. Vessels have been able to enter St. Michael's as early as 
May 21 ; this year we found ice to the southward of St. Matthew's on June 2, and some days 
later still in the season vessels have been stopped by it between the seal islands and Nuuivak. 
The southern limit of the ice is almost entirely dependent ou the severity of the winter. Ileavy 
southerly winds and swell will break up the ice, and if followed by northerly winds it will open 
out and the waters become navigable. When once broken up, if the weather is mild, it will not 
cement again if nipping, and consequently will open more readily to light winds. In cousequeuce 
of the time of the breaking up of the ice being so variable, no definite time for the cutter to be i:i 
the Bering Sea can be given, but she should be there in season to enter the Arctic with the fleet 
or otherwise her missiou will be rendered futile. 

Northeast winds tend to drive the ice oft" the American shore and westerly winds off the 
Siberian side. With these few exceptions little can be said of ice conditions. 

In clear weather the ice-blink indicates the presence of ice and it may be seen a great distance, 
but in thick, foggy weather approach to the pack must be made with great caution. Its proximity 
is usually indicated by the slack, and when this once begins to be seen about the vessel it may be 
judged that a large body is not far distant. As the pack is neared one sees only ice as far as the 
eye can reach. It rises from ten to twenty-five feet above the surface of the water, in all manner 
of fantastic forms and shapes, presents all colors of blue, frcan an indigo to an almost white, and 
glistens in the sun's oblique rays with a splendor blinding to the naked eye. It is a well-known 
fact that the depth of water and surrounding features of this ocean render the formation of 
gigantic icebergs an impossibility and no mountains of ice add the sublimity and terror of their 
presence to the pack, yet there is in this harmless-looking body that which man can never conquer. 
Inside its solid front no vessel can penetrate and once caught within its grasp it is almost a 
miracle that she ever escapes. No ship can be built that will stand its crushing force, and no ram 
be made so powerful as to break its way through it. It is only when the elements combine against 
it that man can invade its domain. 

When a pack is reached it usually becomes necessary to track along its edge to find a lead. 
Whoever is piloting the ship takes his place at the mast-head, and with glass in hand seeks for a 
favorable opening. Oftentimes days are spent working up and down along the ice without clear 
water presenting itself, and when it does extreme cantiou must bo used in entering the lead. It is 
here that the judgment and experience of the ice pilot become a necessity. The weather, currents, 
appearance of the ice, probable winds, and a dozen other things that would never enter the 
mind of the novice, are to be taken into consideration before the vessel's head is turned into the 



24 CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

pack. Once it is determined to enter the lead vigilance must be dpubled and every faculty kept 
on the alert. The vessel is conned from the masthead, and while directing how the helm must be 
put to keep clear of immediate danger, the pilot must be looking ahead for the clearest water, and 
watching ice, sea, and sky for change of currents and winds. If any signs of the closing of the 
lead are presented, the vessel must be got out as soon as possible, for if shut in, and she escapes 
being crushed, she will go to the northward in the drifting pack from one to two knots per hour, 
and it will become necessary to abandon her. If the lead followed up is between the ground-ice 
and the pack, and the wind comes on shore, a safe place can sometimes be found behind the 
ground-ice. A vessel may be made fast to this ice with grapnels, or anchored to leeward of it, 
and lay with comparative safety. If anchored in a current, however, with drifting ice about her, 
the scojie of chain must be short, and everything kept in readiness for getting under way at a 
moment's notice. If anchored in shoal water it is desirable to get into the ice as far as possible 
to avoid the swell, but if the water is deep the ice should be avoided. Generally the presence of 
ice tends to kill the swell, and it will be found much smoother inside the ice thun out. 

The bowhead whale keeps as far to the northward as he can find spouting holes, and to take 
him the whalers are obliged to keep as close to the pack as possible. Usually they track along 
the Asiatic side in the Beriug Sea and Straits, and as they reach the Arctic, cross over and 
work up the American shore to the northward and eastward. There is some difference of opinion, 
however, among whalemen as to the advisability of coasting the eastern side, some believing that 
it is'better to keep up towards Herald Island. In the Bering Sea there is very little danger in 
entering the ice as it is almost sure to open and offer a chance to escape before reaching the Arctic. 
With a knowledge of this fact whalers sometimes enter the ice to the southward of the Straits and 
endeavor to work through it if they have reason to believe from the sudden disappearance of tlie 
whale that there is clear water to the northward. In the Arctic, however, the pack is carefully 
avoided, and it is only when conditions are most favorable that attempts are made to follow up 
the leads. Point Barrow is approached with the greatest caution, as it is one of the most dangerous 
places in the Arctic. As has already been mentioned, by far the major portion of the vessels lost 
in the Arctic are wrecked in its vicinity. Vessels have sometimes been to the eastward of the 
point as far as the mouth of the Makenzie River, but it is only in the most open seasons and 
with a prevailing southerly wind that whalemen venture along the northern shore. 

By October 15 it is usual to begiu to think of leaving the Arctic. To remain after young ice 
begins to make is dangerous. Ice begins to form in small globules varying in size from a pea to 
an egg. These globules cement together, and the sharp crust formed cuts through the planking 
of a vessel like a knife. The bark Helen Man; Captain Baldey, in 1879, the year memorable for 
the loss of the Mt. Wollaston and Vigilant, in working forty-eight hours in this new ice cut through 
her sheathing and all but one-eighth of an inch of her i)lauk. It is a wonder that she ever reached 
San Fran(;isco in this condition. As the season advances in the Arctic gale follows gale, and the 
fury with which they rage seems to increase with each succeeding ^torm, while maritime dangers 
rapidly increase. 1 believe it to be a good rule to leave this stormy ocean with the first bad 
weather after October 15, and there is no necessity of one of our vessels staying later. 

ALASKAN FISHERIES. 

The fishing interests of Alaskan America are becoming so important that I feel the Depart- 
ment should become familiar with the details concerning it. In l87GMr. J. R. Daggett, a merchant 
of San Francisco, conceived the idea of fitting out a vessel for the purpose of catching cod in 
these waters. So successful was the venture that the McOollam Fishing and Trading Company 
was formed for the purpose of extending operations. Other parties, witnessing the success of the 
pioneer firm, have fitted out vessels, with generally successful results. Until within the past two 
years the larger portion of the cod taken have been caught in the vicinity of the Choumagin Islands 
and in the Okhotsk Sea, but these banks failing somewhat, these gentlemen, with the energy 
characteristic of American merchants, sought for others more plentiful, and succeeded in finding 
them in Bering Sea. So little is known of this vast body of water that no definite information can 
be given in regard to the extent of these banks, Imt those interested and best acquainted with the 




STEAM WHALER MARY AND HELEN. 




WHALING BARK BESET BY ICE. 



CEUISE OF THE S;rEAMEE COEWIN. 25 

subject are quite enthusiastic, aud there is uo doubt that in a short time the cod-fishery will be 
holding its owu with the salmon on this coast. 

The following letter from the McCoUam Company will convey some idea of the extent of the 
enterprise : 

"Office of McCollam Fishing and Trading Company, 

" San Francisco, October 21, 1884. 

" Dear Sir : Eeferring to your inquiry as to the amount of cod fishing carried on in the vicinity 
of the Alaskan peninsula, we would say, that at our fishing and trading station on Choumagin 
Islands (Pirate Cove) we have ten men regularly employed; also two small schooners trading and 
fishing in the vicinit}', provisions, gear, salt, etc., going up and fish being carried down on the 
schooner Czar (140 tons), which makes three trips each year between this port and our station. 
There have also been two schooners belonging to another firm, and carrying about sixteen men 
each, fishing at the Choumagin Islands this season. 

" We had in the Bering Sea the bark H. W. Almy (314 tons) fishing on the northern shore of 
the peninsula. She carries a crew of thirty-five men and has capacity for three hundred tons of 
cod. These comprise the codfish fleet in Alaskan waters for the season of 1884. 

"Of the eleven vessels comprising the Okhotsk Sea fleet, owned by ourselves and others, not 
one got a full fare this season, while the H. W. Almy nearly filled herself in the Bering Sea, 
besides sending down sixteen thousand fish by the schooner Czar. 

" We therefore look for an accession to the Bering Sea fleet next year. The Bering Sea is 
mucli nearer to this port than the Okhotsk Sea and the fish are of superior quality, but so little 
is known of the fishing banks that owners have preferred sending to the Okhotsk, which has never 
failed before, to risking a broken voyage in the comparatively unknown Alaskan waters. 

"The codfish found so far have been in spots, and although well-defined banks undoubtedly 
exist, they have never been prospected as thoroughly as they should be. The coast, too, is so 
little known that vessels are obliged to proceed with extreme caution, especially during the foggy 
weather, prevailing a great part of the summer. Should the opportunity present, we would 
respectfully suggest that soundings be made, with a view of locating shoals and cod-banks in and 
about the Bering Sea, and suitable harbors and anchorages where vessels might water up in the 
vicinity. 

" There is considerable capital employed in the business at this port and it is steadily increas- 
ing. Our company alone emi^loys one hundred and twenty-five fishermen during the season and 
from forty-five to seventy-five during the greater part of the year at our curing establishment at 
Pescada Lauding, near San Francisco. 

"There are two other firms employing nearly as many men, and should new and profitable 
grounds be discovered nearer than the Asiatic shore the business would be considerably extended. 

" In closing permit us to thank you for the information given us which you obtained on your 
last cruise, and for the use of charts recently made by you. 
" Very respectfully, yours, 

"The McCollam Fishing and Trading Company, , 

"Per C. P. Overton, Secretary. 
«Capt. M. A. Healy, 

" Commanding U. S. Revenue Steamer Cortvin.^'' 

The following are some of the cod-fishing statistics in Alaskan waters: 
Lynde & Hough, Front street, near Pacific: 

1883. Schooner Hancocli, 1G5 tons. 

1884. Schooner Eancoch, 0G,677 fish. 
1884. Schooner Dashing Wave, 85,000 fish. 

The gentlemen state the business to be profitable and intend to continue and increase facilities. 
McCollam Fishing and Trading Company : 

1884. Fishing station. Pirate Cove, 279,000 fish. 

1884. Bark Helen Almy, Behring Sea, 202,000 fish. 
Anderson & Co. : 

1884. Schooner Isabel, Behring Sea, 90,000 fish. 



26 CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 



OKHOTSK SEA. 

John Malloy : 

1S84. Schooner Gencoe, 42,000 fish. 
McCollaiu Fishinff and Trading Company : 
1884. Schooner JJera, 135,00(t fi.sli. 
1884. Schooner TroiJtc Bird, 82,000 Ush. 
Lyndo & Ilongh : 

1884. Schooner ylrflf(/o, 80,000 lish. 
1884. Schooner Jane A. Fcdkcnhon, 130,000 fish. 
1884. Schooner Fremont, 118,000 fish. 
N. Bechard: 

1884. Schooner San Luis, 90,000 fish. 
1884. Schooner C'o«s/;<«?/oM, 101,000 lish. 
1884. Schooner Francis Alice, 40,0(i(t iisli. 
Anderson & Co.: 

18S4. Schooner Wm. II. Meyer, 90,0(10 tish. 
The salmon industry is becoming quite as important in Alaska as on the Oregon and Cali- 
fornia coasts. 

The king salmon taken in northern Alaska arc considered as good as, if not finer than the 
world-renowned CoUimhia River fish. They are very large, the tlesh has a remarkably rich salmon 
color, and on opening the cans the liquor on the fish is found to be covered with oil, one of the 
best tests of excellent quality. Generally the salmon of Alaska are very fine, and there seems to 
bo no limit to the supi)ly. That the business is profitable the increased quantity of fish taken each 
year by the parties engaged in the business, as shown by the following statistics, bears sulficient 
evidence. (A barrel contains 200 pounds of fish; a case contains four dozen one-pound cans.) 
Neville & Co., cannery Beaton Island.— 1883, 378 barrels; 1884, 1,500 barrels. 
C. C. Rahlfs.— 18-!3, 1,200 barrels; 1884, 2,300 barrels. 
Arctic Packing Company, Nushegak, Bristol Bay. — 1884, 2,200 barrels. 
Sisson, Crocker & Co., Klawack, Prince of Wales Island. — 1884, 6,000 cases. 
Cutter Packing Company, Kusilofl" River, Cook's Inlet.— 1882, 0,500 cases; 1883, 1,500 cases 
1884, 21,000 cases. 

Alaska Commercial Company.— 1880, 100 barrels; 1881, 788 barrels; 1882, 1,088 barrels; 1883, 
1,459 barrels. 

This firm then consolidated with the — 

Karluck Packing Company, Karluck, Kodiak Island. — 1882, 4,102 cases, 1,493 barrels; 1883, 
13,470 ciises, 2,072 barrels ; 1884, 20,170 cases, 2,081 barrels. 

The gentlemen (lomprising these firms all state that the business is profitable, and that they 
intend to continue. An aggregate of these amounts shows that there has been taken, in 1884, 8,081 
barrels and 47,170 cases of silinon in the waters of Alaska. A business that has reached these 
proportions I think may well be called an industry. 

I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

M. A. Healy, 
Captain U. 8. Revenue Marine. 
The Secretary of the Treasury, 

Washington, D. G. 




NATIVE SUMMER VILLAGE, PLOVER BAY, SIBERIA. 




NATIVE HUT OR BARRABORA, ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 



CEUiaE OF THE STEAMEK COKWm. 27 



REPORT OF LIEUT. J. W. HOWISON. 

U. S. Eevenue Mabink Steamer- Cobwin, 

August 21, 1884. 

SiE: I Lave the honor to make the following report concerning my stay at Point Hope, 
Alaska, while acting in obedience to your orders of Jnly 24, 1884. 

Lauding at 10.30 a. m. of that date with the dinghy of this vessel and a detail of two men, I 
camped at a convenient place for boarding such vessels as might arrive in the vicinity and for 
preventing illicit trafiQc with the natives. 

The following whalers were boarded and examined: 

July 25, bark Abraham Barker, of New Bedford, Tobey, master, sailed July 26. 

August 1, bark Mabel, of New Bedford, Cook, master, sailed August 1. 

August 3, baik Arnohla, of New Bedford, Marvin, master, sailed August 4. 

No contraband goods were found on either of these vessels, and although closely watched I 
detected no attempt at illicit trade. 

On July 31 1 sounded around the Point and found not less than three fathoms of water until 
within two ships' lengths from the beach. I found the current about the Point to follow the trend 
of the laud out of Kotzebue Sound and to the northward, and to vary in velocity from one to two 
knots as the wind was against or with it. 

At C.30 a. m. of August 14 the steam-whaler Narwhal, Captain Millard, anchored off the camp 
and reported the loss of the steamer Bowhead, Captain Smith, which had been crushed in the ice 
near Wainwright Inlet, and had become a total wreck so quickly as not to ailuiit of the saving of 
stores. 

Captain Millard informed me that he had not provisions enough to feed the wrecked men, and 
that he had come to the Point for the purpose of obtaining the assistance of the Gorwin. I 
informed him that I would report the wreck to you immediately upon the arrival of the Gorwin. 
He then left for the northward with the intention of leaving some of the wrecked men at the coal 
mine near Cape Lisburne. 

In the two villages at the Point there were but about tifty natives, the rest being away hunting. 
I could find no traces of liquor in their houses, and I did not see one of them under the influence of 
liquor. Tliey evidently knew that I was there to prevent liquor being sold to them by whalers 
and traders, but notwithstanding this my relations with them were pleasant, and I can report 
them friendly and honest. 

On August 20 I rejoined the Gorwin. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

J. W. HOWISON, 

Second Lieutenant, U. 8. Revenue Marine, 
Capt. M. A. Healy, 

Gommanding Revenue Uteamer Gorwin. 



28 CEUISE OF THE STEAJMEK (JOEWIN. 



ORDERS TO LIEUT. J. E. LUTZf. 

U. S. Revknue-Maeine Steajvier Coewin, 

May 22, 1884. 

Sir : Pursuant to Departmeut's order to detail au ofiBcer and two ineu to jirotect seal-life on 
Otter Island, you are Lereby detailed, with Seamen Josenii Lucas and Thomas Brayil, for that 
duty. 

After landing at St. Paul's Island you vrill proceed as soon as possible to Otter Island and 
keep a vigilant lookout during the season that no one is permitted to disturb or take seals from 
Otter Island and that no unauthorized person or persons be allowed to land either on Otter 
Island or St. Paul's Island. 

You will keep a journal during your stay of wind, weather, etc., and anything worthy of 
note that may transijire. Gather, also, notes relative to natives on St. Paul's Island, native 
population, customs, system of education, occupation, etc., and anything regarding the people, 
seal-life, et(!., that you may deem worthy of note. 

In case of sickness, either to yourself or men, you will seek medical attendance on St. 
Paul's Island. 

You will leave Otter Island August 20, or as soon thereafter as possible, for St. Paul's 
Island, and there await the arrival of the Corwin. 

You will seize or arrest any vessel or person attempting to take seal contrary to law; if 
persons, hold them in custody until the Corn-in arrives; if a vessel, seize her, convey her to 
San Francisco and deliver her to the proper authorities for prosecution, having first obtained 
necessary evidence. 

Very respectfully, 

M. A. Heaxy, 

Captain, U. S. Revenue Marine. 
Third Lieut. John E. Lutz, 

U. S. Revenue Marine. 



REPORT OF LIEUT. J. E. LUTZ. 

U. S. Eevenue-Maeine Schoonee Adele, 

San Francisco, October G, 1884. 

Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report: 

In obedience to your orders of May 22, a copy of which is herewith transmitted, I landc^l tVom 
the Corivin at St. Paul's Island June 1. 

I found the affairs of this island in an excellent condition. Wholesome sanitary regulations 
are enforced and unusually good health has prevailed during the past year. All of the natives 
are now living, rent free, in comfortable frame houses which have been erected by the lessees of 
the island, in pla(;e of the dumi) and unhealthy "barrabkies" in which these peoi)le formeily 
dwelt. Too much can not be said in commendation of the manner in which the Alaska Commer- 
cial Com|)any, the present lessees of the island, fulfilled faithfully all the terujs of their contract 
with the Government. The metiiod of taking seals has been reduced to an admirable system, and 
every precaution is taken to prevent a dimiiuition of seal life. The natives are treated exceed- 
ingly well and none of them are permitted to remain in want of the necessaries of life. They are 




ST. PAUL'S, PRIBYLOFF ISLANDS. 







'•v^ 






FUR SEAL ROOKERY, PRIBYLOFF ISLANDS. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 



29 



not required to work, although such us desire it are given remunerative employment. By reason 
of the high price allowed for the labor of skinning seals, these people are able to earn in less than 
two months a sum amply sufficient to maintain them during the entire year, a sum much larger 
in fact than the average amount received by laboring men in the United States for a year's work. 
In addition to this they are supplied free of charge with a quantity of fuel, salt meat, condensed 
milk, etc., while they have no rent to pay. In religion they adhere firmly to the tenets of the 
Greek Church. While this church doubtless exercises a good influence over these people spirit- 
ually, it drains their pockets systematically to the extent of some thousands of dollars annually, 
not for the benefit of the church at St. Paul alone, but for the benefit of the church authorities in 
San Francisco, to whom the major portion is sent. Like all other iirimitive people, these natives 
possess an inordinate longing for intoxicating liquors of any description. Fortunately all means 
of gratifying that desire are now denied them. They are allowed neither sugar nor hoi)s, and can 
not, therefore, make quass. Gambling is their favorite jiastime and is a habit which can not be 
checked. No bad effects are perceptible, however, as the stakes are usually small. The company 
retain to the credit of every man a sum sufficient to buy provisions for their families until such 
time as they can earn more on the seal field, thus i)reveuting the men from squandering all of their 
money and leaving their families destitute. They would readily invest all of their earnings in 
jellies, preserves, sweet crackers, silks, etc., but the company will sell them these articles only in 
limited quantities, encouraging them to buy useful and necessary supplies instead. By precept 
and example on the part of the Government agents and the employes of the company, these 
natives are encouraged to lead an upright and industrious life. The welfare of these people and 
the interests of the Government are well taken care of by Mr. H. A. Glidden, special agent in 
charge of the seal islands. 

Such statistical information as I have been able to collect in regard to the island of St. Paul 
is set forth in the following tables : 

Table shotmng the niimhir of people on the Mand of St. Paul at the end of each year, and the number of deaths occurring 

each year, with the causes of death ascribed. 



















Number of 


CO 






























Native popxU^tion. 






whites 
temporary 
residents. 


n1 


Number of 
births. 










Number of deaths. 


















































Malea. 


Females. 


m 

° 








o 


" 






♦- 








Causes. 


































Cm 








Tear. 


9 

o 




o 


•3 


UD 

a 


"s 


a, 
<*■* 

o 


.1 

Vi 
Cm 

O 

1 

a 






IB 

O 


















t^. 




O 

a 

o 




.2 

a 








B 

00 

6 


a, > 

•^ a 

r 




a 




i 

ta 
> 
O 


a & 
<u p. 




M 

a 


i 
a 

a 
a 

S 




.2 

a 


a 

a 
a 

S 
o 
H 


.2 


1 

1 


1 


.3 
a 
o 

e 

n 
Ph 


1 

a 
§ 


a 
o 
'3 

"3 
> 
a 

o 
O 


1 
1 


(a 

□ 

1 


IS 

ID 

'P 

a 


B 

CD 

g 


03 

n 


OQ 

1 

W 


a 

1 

O 


g 

a 

i 

i2 


t4 

M 

1 

a 
o 


1872.. 
1873.. 

1874.. 
1875.. 


67 
72 

77 
83 


30 
23 

22 
20 


9 
6 
8 
11 


65 
67 
68 

73 


31 
36 
36 
37 


16 
13 
16 
20 


218 
217 
227 
244 


58 
61 

79 
68 


8 
6 
8 
8 


2 
1 

3 
3 


228 
224 
238 
255 


4 
2 
5 

4 


6 
2 
9 

8 


10 
4 
14 
12 




2 


2 

1 


1 

10 

1 






1 




1 





3 
3 

4 

7 


10 
15 
10 
9 


1 




.... 


5 












2 




... 








1876.. 
1877.. 
1878.. 
1879.. 


79 
80 
75 
82 


25 
23 
25 
22 


16 
16 
18 
24 


79 
85 
86 
86 


33 
30 
33 
43 


22 
26 
25 
25 


265 
260 
262 
284 


73 
81) 
81 
86 


5 
5 
6 

7 


2 

2 

1 


262 
267 
268 
292 


10 
6 

7 
10 


11 
7 

12 
9 


21 
13 
19 
19 




.... 


2 


1 


2 

1 
2 
2 


3 










10 
14 
7 
8 


18 
18 
21 
18 




1 

3 




1 
2 
3 




7 

1 










1 




1 


1880.. 


80 


20 


18 


88 


36 


37 


279 


86 


7 


3 


289 


9 


12 


21 


2 


4 




1 












1 


U 


20 


1881.. 


78 


22 


23 


88 


37 


35 


285 


82 


7 





292 


10 


10 


20 


6 


3 


... 


4 




... 


2 








2 


17 


1882.. 
1883.. 


C2 
62 


21 
20 


18 
17 


76 
76 


38 
44 


21 

11 


236 
230 


77 
71 


10 
9 


1 
2 


247 
241 


8 
12 


4 
5 


12 
17 


5 
S 


5 
2 


















40 
7 


50 
26 




1 


9 




2 


... 







30 



CRCISE OF THE STEAMER CORWEN. 



Table showing the number of arrivals of ress0ls at the island of St. Paul. 



Tear. 


Description. 


Total 
number 

of 
arrivals. 


Character. 


Steamera. 


Barks. 


Brigs. 


Schooners. 


Conip(in.T'B 
Teasels. 


GovemmeDt 

vessels. 


Whalers. 


Traders. 


Yachts. 


1872.... 
1873.... 
1874.... 
1876.... 
1876.... 
1877.... 
1878... 
1879.... 
1880.... 
1881... 
1882. . . . 
1883 ... 
1884.... 


6 

11 

10 
9 
10 
13 
13 
12 
8 


2 




1 
1 
3 
1 
3 
1 
3 
4 

1 
1 
1 
2 


9 

5 

8 

6 

8 

13 

14 

13 

13 

16 

15 

13 

12 


9 
5 
5 
6 
G 
6 

11 
9 
8 
9 
9 

10 
8 












1 
1 

1 
1 




2 


1 












1 
1 
1 


1 




6 

., 

3 
3 
5 
4 
3 
1 








1 







1 
1 
1 


1 

1 


1 












1 


1 


2 


1 







Table shotoing the number of seals taken on the island of St. Paul, number of scalers employed, time occupied, the amount 

paid to the sealers, etc. 



Year. 


Nnmber 
of Reals 


Knmber 
of 

Haulers 


Number 
ol (lays 
occnpu'd. 


Amount 

di^tributeit 
among tlie 


Aoiiunt re- 
maining to 
creilit of 
natives at 


Value of 
sealing-ioolA, 

stores, 
etc., imported 






ployed. 


SL-alers. 


bejiinninKof 


(luring the 










the season. 


year. 


1871.... 


77, 134 
76, 040 
75, 437 


70 


55 


$31, 434 
30, 638 
29, 675 




$11, 855 
18, 085 
29, .'i99 


1872.... 


74 


50 




1873.... 


74 


40 




1874.... 


74, 924 


70 


39 


30, 067 
30, 374 
31,961 




39, 655 


1875.... 


75, 699 
80,000 


78 


35 




28, 020 
32,049 


1876.... 


88 


33 


$7, 625 


1877.... 


60,199 


80 


29 


24, 128 


11,860 


24, 746 


1878 .. 


82, 000 


77 


33 


32,849 


1.^482 


44, 391 


1879 .. 


80, 000 


78 


33 


32, 153 


17, 957 


42, 109 


1880.... 


80,000 


84 


34 


32, 104 


20, 668 


49, 050 


1881... 


79,905 


76 


35 


31,870 


27, 32.-. 


49, 713 


1882 ... 


80, 000 


67 


37 


33, (08 


20,706 


52, 188 


1883.... 


60,000 


64 


36 


23, 994 


20, 465 


43, 000 


1884.... 


85,000 


63 


38 


32, 020 


20, 213 


39, 121 



I aai unable to give tbe increase, or deerease of poimlatioii that may be caused by immigration 
or emigration, but it may be deduced, a|)i>roxiiiiately, from the lirst of the tables here given. At 
least one interesting fact is shown by this table, namely : That while a given number of deaths 
occurring during a given year is about equal to the uumber of births recorded during the same 
time, an ei)idemic visits these people at intervals and carries oft' a number who are never replaced, 
proving conclusively that the race is on the decrease. 

By the table on the preceding page it will be observed that there is a gradual decrease in the 
number of days required for making the catch, which goes to prove an increase in the seallife on 
this island. The catch for this season was comi)leted on the 21st of July, and although unusual 
care had been exercised in the selection of the animals, in order to secure the highest grade of 
skins, tbe whole work was done in the shortest space of time, considering the number of seals 
taken and the men employeii. The natives of 8t. raul are required to drive the .seals up Irom 
the beaehes and perform the <n)eration of skinning after the animals have been killed. All other 
labor is i)erfarmed by men Irom Ounalaska and other ]ilaces, who are taken to St. Paul lur liiat 
puri)Ose. The sealers are jiaid a sum etjii.il to forty cents for every skin taken, and are divided 
according to their experience and piolicieney into live classes. Those belonging to the second, 
third, fourth, and fifth classes receive, respectively, nine-tenths, eight- tenths, §even-teuths. ami fl ve- 
teuths of a first-class share, 




FUR SEALS, SAINT PAUL'S ISLAND. 




SEAL-KILLING GROUNDS, PRIBYLOFF ISLANDS. 



OEUISB OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. gl 

On the 10th of June I went to Otter Island in compliance with your instructions, for the pur- 
pose of protecting that place from marauders. 

While there I made a collection of specimens for the Smithsonian Institution, in obedience to 
your verbal orders. The collection, which is marked "Coll. J. E. L., U. S. S. Corwin," is herewith 
transmitted. The following is a list of the specimens, corresponding to the numbers they bear: 

No. 1. Nest and set of five eggs of Gray-eared Finch {Leucosticie tephrocotis var. griseiiiuche), 
taken June 16. 

No. 2. Nest and set of five eggs of Snow Bunting {Plectrophanes nivalis), June 15. 

No. 3. Eggs of Pacific Kittiwake (Lariis tridactylus var. Kotzehiii), June 21. 

No. 4. Egg of Short-billed Kittiwake {Lams brevirostris), June 29. 

No. 5. Three eggs of Red-faced Cormorant (Glaciihts bicristatns), Augusts. 

No. G. Egg and nest of Horned Puflin {Fratercula corniculala), June 19. 

Nos. 7 and 8. Eggs of same, June 20. 

No. 9. Egg of same, June 24. 

No. 10. Egg of same, June 26. 

No. 11. Egg of same, July 30. 

No. 12. Egg of Tufted Puffin {Fratercula cirrJiata), June 24. 

No. 13. Egg of same, June 27. 

No. 14. Egg of Parroquet Auk {Fhaleris psittacula), June 20. 

No. 15. Egg of same, June 23. 

No. 16. Egg of Crested Auk {Simorhynchus cristatellus), June 20. 

No. 17. Egg of same, June 20. * 

No. 18. Egg of same, June 22. 

No. 19. Egg of Knob-billed Auk (S. pusillus), June 14. 

No. 20. Egg of same, June 14. 

No. 21. Egg of same, June 17. 

No. 22. Egg of Murre Giullemot {Lomvia (roile), June 13. 

No. 23. Egg of same, June 18. 

No. 24. Egg of Thick billed Giullemot {Lomvia arra), June 13. 

No. 25. Egg of same, June 13. 

No. 26. Egg of same, June 30. 

No. 27. Chick of Parroquet Auk {Phaleris psittacula). 

Nos. 28 and 29. Chicks of same. 

No. 30. Chicks of Crested Auk {Simorhynchus cristatellus.) 

Nos. 31, 32, and 33. Chicks of same. 

Although Otter Island is visited by myriads of birds, the number of species is very small, 
embracing not more than twenty-five, which includes migratory Hocks and s^tiagglers. It is an 
excellent place for studying the habits of such birds as breed there, and any question in regard to 
them could be satisfactorily answered by observation. 

Some of the eggs in this collection are rare among naturalists, by reason of the inaccessible 
nature of the nests. More of the same kind could be obtained in that place by any one jiossessed 
of a little experience in scaling the face of cliffs and a knowledge of the habits of the birds found 
there. I secured a number of chicks of Frater corniculata and F. cirrhafa, as well as of the 
Phaleris psittacula and Simorhynchus cristatellus, but, with the exception of the accom]);)nying 
specimens, all spoiled for want of proper facilities for drying the skins. These are exceedingly 
rare, probably altogether unknown. 

All of the birds which came under my observation were remarkably ])ersovering in their 
eflbrts to propagate their species, and all would lay fresh eggs to replace those which had been 
removed. In July I removed from the nest of a gray eared finch the half'-tlcdged young brood. 
The mother laid five eggs within a week, and I then removed them, as well as the nest. There- 
upon she built a new nest and deposited two more sets of eggs. Not until the last was taken 
away did she desert the place. The guillemot's eggs were to bo found on outlying rocks as early 
as June 10, and were replaced as fast as removed until the first of August. Even that shy bird, 
the horned puflfin, would lay a second egg upon the first being abstracted, and when the female 



32 CRCriSE OF THE STEAMER OORWIN. 

was removed, the male attempted to finish the process of incubation. No nest is made by these 
birds, as a usual thing, but a small quantity of dry grass or feathers is placed on the rock, evidently 
for the purpose of protecting their plumage from the mould and moisture. From the nest of a 
cormorant I removed two full-grown birds, to all appearances the parents of the brood of chicks, 
and I afterwards observed two other adult birds feeding the chicks and taking a parents' care of 
them. The kittiwakes, in many cases, laid but one egg each ; sometimes two, and a set of three 
eggs was extremely rare, according to my observation. 

Tliese few facts I give as ones which may possibly be unknown to naturalists. Prof. IT. W. 
Elliott, of the Smithsonian Institution, has so faithfully studied the ornithology of these islands 
that little remains to be told in regard to the habits of the birds there found. , 

The result of soundings which I made in the vicinity of Otter Island is shown on the accom- 
panying chart. Several dangerous shoals and rocks, hitherto unknown, are to be observed there. 

The journal which I kept during my stay on the islands is herewith respectfully submitted for 
your a])proval. 

A comparatively small number of seals visited Otter Island this season. The animals which 
go there are evidently stragglers from St. Paul, and the frequency and length of their visits 
appear to be governed by the weather. While the necessity of this detail for the protection of 
Otter Ishiiid and St. Paul Island is self-evident, I would respectfully suggest that the otHcer sent 
there could perform that duty better if stationed on the latter island instead of the former. He 
should, of course, be instructed to visit Otter Island whenever practicable, as well as the more 
remote portions of St. Paul Island, in order to observe any i)ossible depredations. Marauders 
are not so likely to attempt to take seals from Otter Island, which is so well protected hy rocks 
and heavy surf, as they are to visit the northern part of St. Paul Island, where a line sandy 
beach extends for miles on either side of the island, and seals are to be found in great abundance. 
With the small boat provided for use on Otter Island, and a crew of only two men, it would be 
impossible, usually, to board and seize anj' vessel which might be detected in the attempt to kill 
seals. I would respectfully urge the necessity of having a small boat howitzer provided for the 
officer detailed for duty at that place. With that and a large boat and crew which the Alaska 
(Jommercial Company would willingly furnish whenever desired, one oflQcer stationed on the island 
of St. Paul could protect it and the adjacent waters from the depredations of marauding vessels, 
and would also be able to take by force any vessel found violating the law. 

On the Gth of July I saw a bark to the westward. She stood inshore until within five miles 
of Otter Island, then ran offshore again. The next morning she came in sight once more, standing 
in from the westward. When about five miles west northwest of Otter Island she hove to and 
lowered a boat. Considering her movements unaccountable, if not, suspicious, I innnediatcly went 
out and boarded the vessel. I found her to be the bark Coral, Kelley master, from San Francisco, 
on a whaling cruise. An examination of the vessel disclosed no violation of law, and the master 
explained that he was in search of medical assistance, and, being unacquainted with those waters, 
did not wish to approach too close to land. He sent the sick man ashore at St. Paul and pro- 
ceeded to sea that afternoon. 

No other strange vessel was seen until the 3d of August, when I observeil a small schooner 
about twenty miles to the eastward, steering in a southwesterly direction. On the Sth, and again 
on the 10th, a schooner, to all appearances the same one, came in sight from the southwest and 
was observed to be heading directly for Otter Island until lost to view in the fog which shut in 
shortly afterward. 

On the 20th of August 1 left Otter Island and went to St. Paul to await the GorwirCs arrival. 
All of the seals had left the former island and no more vessels had been seen. 

Another schooner appeared southwest of St. Paul on the morning of the 20th, and was in 
sight during the forenoon. 

On the afternoon of the following day another schooner came in sight from the southwest and 
stood up the west side of the island. From the movements of the last vessel I inferred that she 
would attempt to take seals on the northern part of St. Paul Island. Therefore I secured the 
services of six natives, and with them, my two men, and a volunteer in the person of one of the 
employes of the Alaska Commercial Company, immediately set out for Northeast Point in a large 




SHOOTING SEAL ON A GROUNDED BERG, ARCTIC OCEAN. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COEWIN. 33 

whale-boat furnished by the company. Upon reaching Northeast Point, at 10 p. m., I learned 
from the native watchman stationed there that the schooner had kept on to the northward. AVe 
kept watch during the night, however, but did not see the vessel until daylight, when she was dis- 
covered about twenty miles oft'-sliore, lying to. This showed that her people had a fixed purpose, 
which could be no other than an intention to attempt a lauding for the [iiirpose of capturing seals, 
and I watched the vessel closely. She was in sight until noon, when tbick fog set in, obscuring 
the view. A fresh westerly gale i)revailed during that time. Late in the afternoon the wind mod- 
erated and the weather cleared, but the schooner was not to be seen. We kept a bright lookout 
that night also, and Ht lli.30 a. m. (September 1) discovered the schooner sailing down the eastern 
side of the island, abont a mile offshore. I immediately called up the crew, launched the boat, 
and set out in pursuit. After a pull of a mile and a half, I reached the vessel at 1 a. m. Sbe was 
then anchored close insliore. 1 boarded her with my men and found the master of tlie vessel on 
hoard. Ui)()u being (|uestioned, he freely admitted that he was there for the purpose of se;iliiig, 
and that his boats had been sent ashore to make a catch. I then \>aited for the return of the boats. 
The master nieanwliile jileadcd to be released, making various excuses, and saying that I would 
"lose nothing" if I would let the vessel go. In a shoit time the three boats belonging to the vessel 
came back loaded with seal carcasses. Having now secured all necessary evidence, I notified the 
captain of the seizure of the vessel. It was not without trouble that 1 succeeded in overcoming a 
manifest disposition to resist the seizure. 1 had now six white men to contend with, and some of 
them were outspoken in their determination not to be arrested. They were beginning to arouse 
a spiiit of resistance in the captain also, when I called him aside, formally notified him that I 
seized his vessel in behalf of the Government of the United States, warned him against resistance, 
and demanded the ves.sel's pai)ers. He immediately surrendered thein, and the other men then 
resigned themselves to their fate. There was an occasional outbreak on the part of one or the 
other of the more tur!udent ones, but nothing serious occurred from first to last. 

By the schooner's papers she was shown to be the Adele, of Hamburg, Gustave Isaacson, 
master, with three officers and a crew of eighteen Japanese. In addition to the four white men 
belonging to the vessel, I found on board two others whose presence was not accounted for except 
by a verbal statement from the captain that they were passengers. They were ashore with the 
others killing seals at the time I boarded the vessel. One of the passengers, Sullivan by name, 
was more disi)osed to resist arrest than any of the others, saying that all he possessed " was in 
the vessel." The Adilc, as exhibited by her papers, was built at Shanghai in 1877, and measures 
" fifty British tons." She sailed from Yokohama April 9 last, having cleared for a hunting voyage 
to the North Pacific, the Kurile Islands, and return. She was therefore out of the waters for 
which she cleared, in addition to which she had no nanui i)ainted on the stern. 

Many of iIk- seals brought off' by the boats were thrown overboard in the attempt to get away, 
but I secured twenty one, and afterwards had the skins removed and salted. The vessel con- 
tained, besides, two hnndied and seventeen sealskins, ten sea otter skins, eighteen sea-lion skins 
(poor), thirteen fox-skins, forty-two sacks of salt, foi ty-two mats of salt, and thirty-eight mats of rice. 

After daylight we got the vessel under way and proceeded to the village. The master and 
officers of the vessel refused to have anything more to do with her management, and it therefore 
became necessary to detain them as prisoners. As I could not hope to keep six wellarmetl men 
under restiaint with my small force, and as the vessel did not afford any safe place for confine- 
ment, I deemed it necessary to seinl them ashore to be kept there until your arrival. The agent 
of the comiiany generously offered to provide quarters and food for them as prisoners, and the 
special agent kindly volunteered to assume charge of tliem. The crew then refused duty. I 
iletained five of them on board and sent the remainder ashore. 

Soon after our arrival at the village, word was received by telephone from Nortlieast Point 
that a schooner was there engaged in the capture of seals, and that another vessel was ai)proai-h- 
ing from the northward. It was necessary to drive off' these marauders as soon as possible, .so 1 
procured a fresh crew of natives and started forthwith. As the Adele could not be left with safety, 
owing to the want of any harbor, I considered it advisable to use her for tlie purpose of giving 
chase to the others. 

Upon reaching Northeast Point I saw one schooner lying at anchor, about six miles oft' shore, 
II. Mis COL' 3 



34 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

her people being then engaged probiibly in skinning the seals taken from the beach. As soon as 
I stood oft' in her direction she got under way for the northward. Then she stood off and on, 
making signals by dii)ping the i)eak of her mainsail, from which, as well as from a chance remark 
made by one of the officers of the Adele, I inferred that these vessels had been acting in concert. 
Finally she hove to when nine or ten miles off-shore and waited for me. It was dusk when I drew 
near her and her people could not distinguish the revenue flag until I was within one hundred 
yards of her. I then observed that the vessel's name had been painted out. She immediately 
tilled away and made all sail. My hail was answered by her people, who refused to give the 
schooner's name, and no attention was paid to the order to heave-to until boarded. I caused two 
shots to be fired across her bow and two into the upper part of her rigging, hailing her i)eoplo after 
every shot and repeating the order for them to heave-to. Muttered imprecations were the only 
reply until after the fourth shot, when they fired into us. I then directed my men to aim lower, 
so as to rake the decks of the other vessel. I stoi)ped the fire at intervals to see if she would 
heave-to. She fired five or six shots into us, which we returned with fifty or sixty rounds. We 
suffered no damage, and they ])robably received little or no injury, as they were all under cover. 
Darkness had set in, the wind freshened, and I finally abandoned the chase. I saw no hope of 
being able to take the vessel with my small force, or at least of doing it without endangering the 
one already captured. 

I reached the village on the following morning, September 2, and made preparations for the 
voyage to San Francisco. A small supjdy of stores was needed, as the vessel was poorly supplied, 
and many of such articles as were on board had been rendered worthless by dampness. I pro- 
cured such things as were absolutely necessary, and I respectfully request that bills for the same, 
when submitted by the Alaska Commercial Company, be approved by you and forwarded to the 
Department, with an application to have them allowed and ordered to be paid. 

Having found that in order to work the vessel safely more men would be required, I persuaded 
four more of the Japanese to come on board and turn to, representing that such a course was the 
only one by which they could hope to get their pay. They had all shipped for a voyage of seven 
mouths from April 7, at from seven to thirteen dollars per mouth, receiving two months' wages in 
advance. As soon as the last-named four members of the crew arrived on board the whole com- 
pany held a consultation, and then gave me to understand that as the vessel was short-handed 
they would not go with her unless they were promised higher wages. As I could not guaranty 
that, I told them they could go ashore and forfeit all claim for wages already earned. It seemed 
likely that I should be obliged to commence the voyage without a crew. At last they agreed to 
remain on board, and they have served faithfully and well. 

Three vessels were reported in sight that day, bnt as the authorities had now been given 
sufficient time for equipping and sending out armed parties to i)rotect different portions of the 
island, I considered it uunecessarj- for me to remain. 

At midnight I got under way and proceeded towards Ounalaska. The rudder was loose in 
the pintles, and was not therefore in a safe condition, for which reason I desired to put into the 
nearest harbor to effect the necessary repairs. I was prevented from doing so, however, by con- 
tinued thick weather and alternate gales and calms. It was impossible for me to find the way into 
the harbor unless able to see the land, as 1 had no reliable chart and no record of the error or rate 
of the chronometer. After a delay of five or six days I gave up the attempt, worked to the east- 
ward, cleared Ounimak Pass September 12, and thence had a prosperous passage to this port, 
arriving at 2 p. m. September 28. 

Upon reaching here I transmitted a telegram to the Department, reporting the seizure of the 
vessel and arrival here. On the 29th I received the following rej)ly : 

" Washington, D. C, September 29, 1884. 
" Lieut. John E. Lutz, U. S. R. M., 

" Care Cnstom- House, 8. F., Cal. : 
"Turn over schooner Adele to United States marshal. Consult United States district attor- 
ney, San Francisco. 

"W. Q. Gresham, 

" Secretary." 
1 















l.rC^-^^^-*^t^ 


^Mf .%«^ Hi/^ii 


.:v*r3 
























y»^ 



FUR SEALS, SAINT GEORGE'S ISLAND. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 35 

The United States inarsbal refused to receive the vessel, statiug that lie could not do so 
before a libel had been filed against the vessel and a \Nrit issued by the court authorizing him to 
take possession. I (hen placed the case in the hands of the Unitt-d States district attorney for 
prosecution. Uwing to a press of other business, however, the libel has not been filed as yet; 
therefore I retain charge of the vessel. Upon information given by me the United States commis- 
sioner to day issued a warrant for the arrest of the six white men formerly belonging to the Adde, 
and the United States marshal took them into custody. The district attorney authorized the 
release of the nine Japanese whom you brought from St. Paul, but will retain as witnesses those 
now on board of the schooner. 

It is to be hoped that this case will bo vigorously prosecuted. The case is a remarkably clear 

one, and the most impartial observer can detect no extenuating circumstances. An opportunity 

is now given to make such an example as would tend to check future depredations of this nature, 

while, on the other hand, if these parties were allowed to go free, the act would be equivalent to 

declaring null and void that law which now protects the Government's valuable interests in the 

seal fisheries. 

I remain, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

John E. Lutz, 

Third Lieutenant, U. S. Beve7iue Marine. 
Capt. M. A. Healy, 

Commanding Revenue Steamer Corwin. 



DESCRIPTIONS OF BOGOSLOV ISLAND 

AND THE 

NEW VOLCANO IN BERING SEA, 

(ILLUSTRATED WITH SIX PHOTOGRAPHS). 

BY 

LIEUT. J. C. CANTWELL and SURGEON H. W. YEMANS. 



37 





BOGASLOFF: SA»L ROCK, BEARING NE. BV E., DISTANT ONE MILE. 



ifr,.'«&'\»y<&_ 






^>>t,- *>P * 



^cr^'~-!.^'' 



a>:* luaE.'^^i^TiipHi r r* Ti. 



SAIL ROCK AND NEW BOGASLOFF. 



DESOEIPTIONS OF 

BOGOSLOV ISLAND AND THE NEW VOLCANO IN BERING SEA. 

Visited by the U. S. 8. Corwln, Capt. M. A. Healy, U. S. Revenue Marine, commanding. 



REPORT OF SECOND LIEUT. JOHN -C. CANTWELL. 

Approaching the island from the northeast it has the appearance of being divided into two 
parts the northern portion being in a state of eruption and the southern portion a much serrated 
rock rising almost perpendicularly from the sea, while between the two and nearer the northern 
part of the new Bogoslov a tower-like rock rises with a slight inclination towards the north to a 
height of eighty six feet. At a distance it might be easily mistaken for a sail upon the horizon ; for 
this reason it is called Ship Eock or Sail Rock. A nearer approach discovers the fact that the two 
elevations are coTinected by a low, flat beach free from rocks and affording an excellent landing 
Dlace for small boats. The Corwin steamed around the northern end of the island and close enough 
to obtain an accurate view of the volcano. The top was hidden by clouds of steam and smoke 
which issued not only from the crater but also poured forth with great violence from rents or areas 
in the sides of the cone. On the northeast side these apertures are particularly well defined. I 
counted fifteen steam jets forming a group situated on a horizontal line about two-thirds the 
distance from the base to the apex of the cone. This group was the more noticeable on account of 
the force with which the steam escaped as well as the marked regulaiity of the spaces separating 
the vents. The sketch marked A gives a view of the northern end of the island and the position 
of steam jets mentioned above. 

When the center of the island bore northeast and distant three-quarters of a mile the Coru-in 
was anchored in thirteen fathoms water and a boat lowered in which we proceeded towards the 
shore sounding in from ten to twelve fathoms until within one hundred and fifty feet of the beach, 
when' the water gradually shoaled and we landed without difflculty, the wind being light from 
northeast and the sea smooth. The landing place is shown in the sketch marked B. 

The narrow isthmus connecting the old and new formations is composed of a mixture of fine 
black sand and small oolitic stone, the greatest quantity of sand being on a line dividing the island 
longitudinally into two parts. During our stay the water did not rise high enough to cover this 
beach, but pieces of drift- wood, algte, etc., found on the highest parts fully show that at the times 
of highest tides or during severe storms the entire isthmus is submerged. 

The sides of the new Bogoslov rise with a gentle slope to the crater, and the ascent at first 
appearance is easy, but the thin layer of ash formed into a crust by the action of rain and moisture 
is not strong enough to sustain a man's weight. At every step my feet crushed through the outer 
covering and 1 sunk at first ankle-deep and later on knee-deep into a soft, almost impalpable dust 
which arose in clouds and nearly sufibcated me. As the summit was reached the heat of the ashes 
became almost unbearable, and I was forced to continue the ascent by picking my way over rocks 
and bowlders whose surfaces being exposed to the air were cooler and attbrded a more secure foot- 
hold. 



40 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

The temperature of the nir at the base was 44° aud at the highest jioint reached 60°. A ther- 
luometfT buried in the sand at the foot of the cone registered 4i°, lialf way to tlie top, 191°, and 
in a rrevice of the ramparts of the crater the mercury rapidly expanibnl and filled the tube, when 
the bulb burst, aud shortly afterwards the solder used in attaching the sus])ension ring to the 
instrument was fused. We estimated the temperature at this point to be oOQo Fahreuheit. The 
tcm])erature of the water around the island was the same as that of the sea, as observed on board 
the Convin at the time, was ii)°. 

On all sides of the cone there are perforations through which the steam escaped with more or 
less energy. I observed from some vents the steam was emitted at regular intervals, while from 
othej-s it issued with no i)erceptible iiiterinission. Around each vent there was formed a thick 
dej)0sit of sulphur, the vapor arising from which was sullbcatiug aud uiuiseatiug iu the extreme. 

An examination of the interior of the crater was not satisfactory on account of the clouds of 
smoke and steam arising and obscuring the view. On the northwest side the surface of the cone 
is broken into a thousand irregularities by nuisses of volcanic and metamorphic rock. On all 
other sides, however, the accumulatiou of ash and dust has almost entirely covered the rocks and 
the sides appear more even and less i)recii)itous. 

A curious fact to be noted in regard to this volcano is the entire abseuce, apparently, of lava 
and cinder. Nowhere could I find the slightest evidence of either of these characteristics of other 
volcanoes hitherto examined in the Aleutian Islands. Small quantities of rock-froth consisting 
of un fused particles in a semi-fused mass were seen, but the heat of discharge has evidently never 
been sufQcieut to produce tirm fusion. Specimens of dust collected from one of the vents was 
(■omi>ared with volcanic dust which fell in the village of Onualaska October 20, 1883, and found 
to l)e identical iu character. 

Descending to the beacli ou the east side I found it to be much the same formation as on the 
west side, with iierhaps the exception that the line of sand here approaches ueiirer the water-line. 
The pebbles seen on the island are universally of a dark-gray color, with small black spots and 
worn surface by attrition. 

I saw no shells and but little sea-weed. Kelp in considerable quantities, however, was observed 
close inshore. 

A walk of a third of ii mile brought me to old Bogoslov, where the beach abruptly termi- 
nates. The northern end of this rock rises almost perpendicularly to a distance of some 325 feet. 
Its face is deeply indented at the base, forming a cave-like recess which gives the rock the appear- 
ance of leiining toward the north. 

I'robably 7iowhere can there be found a better example of the disintegration of stoue into 
soil by the action of the atmosphere. The composition of the islet was originally of slate or shale. 
It is now breaking down on all sides and crumbling to dust. The central jiortion seemed to be 
comjiosed of a more enduring substance, but a close examination was impossible on account of the 
loose, crumbling nature of the rock forming the sides and the precipitous ascent. I fired a rifle-shot 
into a tlock of i)uffin, myriads of which were perched in the clefts and niches of the rock, and when 
they lose small pieces of stoue were detached and in turn dis])liK',ed hirger jjicces of stone until a 
perfect avalanche of stone came down the declivity, scoring great ruts in the hillside and tearing 
up great masses of stone, which were dashed to pieces on the shore below. 

Speiiinifiis of outer rock were found at the ba.se of the old Bogoslov, on the southern side, 
which, being struck with a hammer, crumbled to dust, in some cases deeply tinted with red, show- 
ing the presence of iron. 

Hard bowlders of some hard, smooth stone fringe the bases of both the old aud newBogoslofi, 
but a careful cxaiiiinatiou of the surrounding waters, both in small boats and on tioard the Conciti, 
failed to sliDW any outlying dangers. A sjwt of sand and pebble Idriiiaiioii extends from the south- 
ern end of old Bogoslov four-tenths of a mile in a southeasterly diieetion, and, like the isthmus 
<H)niiectiiig the two islands, is probably subin(>rged at times of highest (ides or during severe 
storms. The depth of water around the island is shown upon the chart act;ompaiiyiiig the report. 

PufBii in great numbers were seen on old Bogoslov, and it is jnobable they make this isolated 
si)ot a breeding ])lace. 1 also saw iiiinibers of liarltMjuiii-diicks, gulls, and kittivvakes. A dead 
albatross was picked up on the beach, but it is lu-obable it was washed ashore, as its presence iu 




OLD BOGASUOFF, BEARING E. BY N. 




EAST FLANK OF CRATER. 



CRUISE OP THE STEAMER COR WIN. 41 

these latitudes is not common. Several herds of sea-lions were found on the beaches and on the 
rocks of the island. They evinced no fear of our party until fired into, when they entered the 
water aud followed us from point to point, evidently viewing our intrusion with the greatest 
curiosity and astonishment. 

Angular measurements were made on shore by Lieut. D. W. Ilall to determine the heights of 
the peaks and the dimensions of the island, with the following results : 

I'eet. 

Height of east pinnacle old Bogoslov 334 

Height of center pinnacle old Bogoslov 289 

Height of west pinnacle old Bogoslov 324 

Breadth of base old Bogoslov 933 

Height of Sail Rock 875 

Width of isthmus (narrowest) 326 

Length of southern spit 1, 824 

Extreme length of island 7, 904 

General trend of island, SE. by E. aud NW. by W. 

By observations of Lieut. J. W. Howison the position of Sail Rock was reckoned to be 
latitude 53° 55' IS" north and longitude 108° 00' 21".7 west. 

In conclnsiou, I have to regret that this subject, so full of interest to science, could not have 
been more satisfactorily discussed, but the relation which old Bogoslov bears to the new forma- 
tion, the existence or non-existence of a crater in the latter, and the geological problems arising 
open up a field of inquiry too vast for me to enter. It is with this knowledge that this report has 
been confined to statements of facts and description of phenomena which fell under my observa- 
tion during a reconnaissance of the island, and if any of them should prove a help to any others 
in their investigations the most sanguine hopes of the writer will have been realized. 

Respectfully submitted. 

John C. Cant well. 
Third Lieutenant, U. S. Revenue Marine. 



REPORT OF SURGEON H. W. YEMANS, U. S. MARINE-HOSPITAL SERVICE. 

The recently formed ]>ortion of Bogoslov Island, Bering Sea, lies in latitude 53° 55' 18".5 
north and longitude 168° 00' 21" west, and is of nearly circular shape, about one ha'f mile in 
diameter and distinctly volcanic in its origin. It has, in previous descriptions, received the name 
of new Bogoslotf in contradistinction to the more ancient portion of the island, the two having 
been thought by those who first saw them since the recent ernption to be separate islands. 

Tlie exact date of the advent of the new portion above the sea-level is not definitely known. 
Natives who were in that neighborhood claim to have seen smoke issuing from old Bogoslov 
during and since the summer of 1882, but as they were at a considerable distance and no evidences 
were to be discoveied about old Bogoslov of recent eruptions, it is fair to presume that what 
was seen arose from the new portion, which possibly had not at that time made its appearance 
above water. Although known to be in suppra(pi('Ous existence some ten months at the diite of 
this writing it had received no closer examination than that possible from the deck of a vessel 
distant half a mile until the visit of the Coricin, M. A. Healy, commanding. May 21, 1884. 

The credit of the first discovery belongs, I believe, to Captain Anderson, of the schooner 
Matthew Turner., who saw and sailed i>artly aronnd the island September 27, 1883. He describes 
it at that time actively erupting large masses of heated rock and great volumes of smoke, steam, 
and ashes from the apex and numerous fissures on the sides and base ; while at night bright 
reflections of interior fires were distinctly visible. A few days later Captain Hayne, of the 
.schooner Dora, also saw it, but did not land. He gives a description similar to that of Captain 
Anderson of its appearance. 



42 CEUISE OF THE STEAMEE CORWIN. 

Fo earthquake shocks or other unusual phenomena were noticed on the neighboring islands at 
the time of the supposed eruption, though the two volcauoes on Akoutan Island ceased to smoke 
at about that time and have shown no signs of activity since. 

October 20, 1883, a shower of volcanic ashes fell at Ounalaska, sixty miles to the eastward, 
although it is i)ossible tlmt this pumice dust came from Mount St. Augustine, a volcano then active 
some seven hundred miles northeast of that place. 

May 21, 1884, at 4 a. m., the new formation was seen from the deck of the Corwin, as a'dull gray, 
irreguhirly shaped hill of about five hundred feet in height, from the sides and summit of which 
great, volumes of steam were arising, obscuring the upper third, and becoming detached, tloated 
otf on the northwest wind, then blowing, as cumulous clouds. At a height of about two-thirds 
of the distance from the base there issued, on the north .side, a series of large steam jets, which 
extended in a horizontal direction completely across the northwestern face of the hill, which at that 
part was considerably flatteued liiterally and quite steep, giving it a very striking resemblance to 
a smoking charcoal kiln. This is shown in a photograijh, somewhat blurred, unfortunately, owing 
to a sudden lurch of the ship. 

Fortunately, the day was clear, not hazy, although the sky was overcast, a somewhat thick 
layer of cumulostratus clouds obscuring the hill most of the time, rendering the process of 
picture-taking a difQcult undertaking, and our artist, Lieut. George 11. Doty, is to be congratu- 
lated on his (under the circumstances) brilliant success. Without the accompanying photographs 
an a^lequate description of this recent and most interesting addition to the Aleutian group of 
islands could hardly be given, while with them one can avoid creating false impressions, and can 
also remove erroneous conceptions. 

On nearer approach what at tirst sight appeared to be i)atches of vegetation became visible. 
A closer examination, however, revealed their true nature— collections of condensed sulphur which 
had accumulated around the orifices of what had once been active steam jets. These condensa- 
tions were still going on, each vent, in fact, having its encircling collection of condensed sulphur 
of various hues and tints. 

Steaming to within one-fourth of a mile of the south side of the isthmus, which was first dis- 
covered to form a connecting link between the oltl and new portions of Bogoslov, thus making 
them one, so to speak, the Corwin was brought to an anchor in thirteen fathoms of water, and a 
landing by boats was immediately made. But little surf was breaking on the beach, which at 
that point was composed of fine gravel and sand, and landing thereon presented no difficulties. 

Photograph No. 2 was taken from the shii), at a distance of thiee miles off Ship Eock, which 
then bore NE. 5 N., and shows distinctly the exact relation of the old and new portion of the 
island, including also the isthmus, near the middle of which stands the rocky pinuacle known as 
Ship Rock. 

The low, narrow intermediate portion of the island termed in this report the isthmus, lying 
between and connecting the higher extremes, is readily seen to be of much greater age than the 
newly formed portion, and had evidently been, previous to the recent eruption, a ])artially sub- 
merged spit, making out in a northwesterly direction from old Bogoslov; but the same force which 
pushed up the new addition elevated it also, especially that portion, the extremity immediately 
beneath the northeastern half of the new formation. The extent of this elevation, judging from 
the barnacles and water-marks on Ship and other rocks, being some twenty or more feet. It is 
the extremity of this spit which forms a considerable part of the foundation of the new portion. 

But few shells were found on the beach, and the only vegetation seen was a few patches of 
kelp and some ispecamens of Fucacine thrown upon the beach. Myriads of sea fowls occupied the 
clefts and crevices of the rocky heights of old Bogoslov and on tlie beach and rocks surrounding 
that end of the island. Large numbers of sea-lions, some of immense size, were seen, but took to 
the water on our approach. Both birds and animals seemed to avoid the newer portion, on which 
I saw no animal life whatever. 

The temperature of the water at the place of landing was the same as that more distant from 
the island, 42°; of the atmosphere, 44°; and a thermometer buried in tlie gravel of the beach above 
high-water mark registered 44°. Already had the odor of sulphurous oxide become distinctly per- 
ceptible, which near the summit and in the depressions rendered respiration decidedly ditticult. 




WHALING STATION NEAR POINT BARROW. FORMERLY SIGNAL STATION, U. S. A. 




ARCTIC OCEAN TRADING SCHOONER. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIK 43 

Following the beach to the southward, in order to get as far to windward as possible, until a 
point ojjposite the ridge shown in the left of i)hotograph numbered 4 was reached, the ascent was 
begun. For the first one huudred yards the route lay over a gentle slope composed of fragments 
of rock thickly covered with looso ashes, into which one sank knee-deep at every step; then, as 
the sides became steeper, over loosoly-|)iled fiagmeuts of rock, following the ridge until about two- 
thirds of the distance had been accomplished, when we were confronted by an insurmountable 
wall of rock (aqueo-igneouc conglomerate), which stopped further progress in that direction. At this 
point an attempt to photograph the interior of the great fissure was n)ade, but the immense vol- 
ume of aqueous vaj)or issuing from it and the numerous vents iu the vicinity so completely obscured 
the view as to render it a total failure. Photographs Nos. 3, 4k, and 5 give a sufficiently clear idea 
of the appearance of the new formation to make the f.)llowiiig brief description intelligible. The 
great fissure extends in a northeast and southwest direerion through the upper third of the hill, 
dividing it into two unequal j)ortions, the southeavStern i)arr being much the smaller and lower one. 
The smaller portion is about one-fifth of the mass and was 403 feet in height. Owing to its top 
being obscured the height of the larger summit could not be definitely ascertained, but it was 
probably about seventy-five feet higher than its neighbor, certainly not over five hundred feet 
in all, which height it had probably never exceeded by more than fifty feet. No satisfactory 
examination of the interior of the great fissure could be made, owing to the steam, fumes, and heat 
rendering entrance into it highly dangerous if not absolutely impossible. 

The immediate entrance only was visible, the clouds of vapor which arose from and almost 
completely filled it hiding the interior from view. Vents more or less active were abundant; the 
temperature of the interior of one of the smaller ones was 190° ; the thermometer, laid ou the suitace 
in a sheltered situation, registered 50°, while when held at the height of the head from tLesuiface 
the mercury fell to 49°. Water thrown upon the rocks at the entrance of the great fissure was 
immediately vaporized with a hissing noise. It was observed there and elsewhere that the dis- 
charge from the vents was perfectly regular, unaccompanied by much, if any, noise, and the ear 
placed upon the surface and over the larger of the extinct vents could detect nothing more than a 
faint "i)nrring" or hissing sound. 

Finding it impossible to make the wished-for examination of the great fissure or to reach the 
summit, we descended and made a half circuit of the base, where a re-ascent was attempted. Steep 
and inaccessible walls soon stopped our progress, however, and only about the same elevation as 
on the opposite side was reached, and similar success attended our eftbrts to penetrate or even 
obtain a view of the interior. The heat of this side was much greater than that of the other, 
both of the surface and the discharges, it being hot enough in one of the crevices through which 
steam was escaping to quickly melt the solder fastenings of the thermometer and expanding the 
mercury sufficiently to burst the bulb, although the instrument was made to register 200° F. 

It is much to be regretted that a thorough examination of the interior of the great fissure 
was rendered impossible, as much desirable information could doubtless have been obtained, for at 
its bottom would, in my opinion, be found the perpendicular stratum forced up at the time of 
eruption, elevating the softer strata into the two tlanking ridges which form the apices of the 
larger and smaller elevations surmounting the hill. A few fraguients of granitoid rock |)icked 
from among the debris indicate the probable character of this intermediate stratum, lu) oiitcro|)- 
pings of which were, however, visible. The flanking portions, indeed, almost the entire visible 
part of th« new formation, had evidently once formed the bottom perpendicular stratum, of wliich 
latter Ship Rock is possibly an extension or more probably a foreruiinerT Photographs Nos. (5 and 7 
show, respectively, the northwest end and southeast side of old Bogoslov. 

Upon the return of the Corwin from the Arctic next fall it is hoped an opportunity to revisit 
this interesting spot, the scene of one of nature's curious freaks, will be afl'orded, so that a more 
thorough examination may be made and changes noted. 
Respect fully submitted. 

H. W. Yemans. 
Assistant Surgeon, U. iS. Marine ilospilul Service. 




OLD BOGASLOFF, FROM SAIL ROCK. 




NEW BOGASLOFF, BEARING SE. 



ON HORNBLENDE ANDESITES FROM THE NEW VOLCANO ON BOGOSLOV ISLAND IN 

BERING SEA. 

BT GEORGE P. MEEBILL. 

The rocks described below were received from Capt. M. A. Healy, by whom they were collected 
and douated to the National Museum. Ou account of the interest just now attached to the locality 
they seem worthy of a special description. It is well to remark in the beginning that none of the 
samples received show freshly fractured surfaces, but are in the form of irregular blocks with 
their corners broken and rounded. They were accompanied and covered with a fine sand and 
dust of the same mineral nature as the rocks themselves, but stained by sulphur and iron oxides. 
Ev( n in the absence of definite information on the subject, it seems safe to infer that they are 
simply ejected volcanic blocks, aud not from recent lava flows, none of which have as yet been 
reported. 

Two varieties of the rock were received, one consisting of a light-gray, slightly purplish, fine 
grained and porous grouudmass, in which small glassy feldspars and dark brown and green horn- 
blende-like crystals are readily distinguishable by the naked eye. The texture is quite uniform, 
the brown hornblende being the more variable constituents, in one case a single crystal nearly 
half an inch in diameter being observed. The rock is rough to the touch and somewhat friable. 
Under the microscope it is found to consist of a light gray grouudmass, in which are embedded 
deep reddish brown, strongly dichroic hornblendes, light green augites, and numerous crystals of 
a plagioclase feldspar, together with scattering grains of iron ore. The hornblendes are usually 
in irregular crystals, though an occasional quite perfect basal section was observed which showed 
a preponderance of the prismatic faces. The crystals are often elongated in the direction of their 
vertical axes, and a portion of them show the dark borders so commonly seen in the hornblende 
of andesites. The-augite is light green in color, and at first glance might readily be mistaken for 
a green variety of horubleude. Its cleavage and optical properties are, however, unmistakably 
those of augite. 

In form the plagioclases are short and thick, showing but few twinning striations, sometimes 
none at all. A portion of them are clear and pellucid, while others are clouded through the pres- 
ence of numerous cavities and impurities. In many cases the outer portion of a crystal is clear, 
while the interior is clouded, or again both outer and interior portions may be clear while there 
exists an intermediate zone full of cavities. In addition to these the plagioclases contain numer- 
ous inclosures of a yellowish glass, which often bears a bubble, and hornblende and augite parti- 
cles. A number of short aud thick, clear, glassy feldspars are present, which show no sign of 
twinning, and which appear from their optical properties to be sanidin. Both sanidin (?) aud 
lilagioclaso show at times a very evident zonary structure. 

Apatite occurs but sparingly and in minute colorless crystals, showing but slight trace of the 
duskv interiors so often seen in the apatites of this class of rocks. The magnetite is, as a rule, in 
but poorly defined crystals. ■ 

The base proper of the rock consists of an aggregate of minute colorless microlites* and grains 
of opacite; there is also present a very weakly doubly refracting, colorless, interstitial substance, 
which, under a power of 300 diameters is seen to be composed of rounded and irregular imbricated 

*Iii ii preliminary nolo on these rocks, published in Science of December 12, 1884, the base was stated by mistalie 

to be micro/eUitio. It should have read microlitio. 

45 



46 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 



scales like tridymite. So far as observed, however, noue of these scales present a regular hexag- 
onal outliue, but resemble more closely those figured by Roseubusch* thau any I have seen figured 
elsewhere. 

The dark variety of the rock is much more compact in texture, and.bears a larger proportion 
of inicroKcopic hornblende, which occurs in crystals of all sizes up to one-fourth of an inch in diam- 
eter. Under the microscope it is found to contain also a much greater proportion of minute feld- 
si)ars scattered through the groundmass. As in the lighter variety, these are short and thick, 
being usually not more than twice as long as broad. The groundmass is much more dense, but 
under a high magnifying power is seen to consist mainly of the same colorless uiicrolites and iron 
ore. Little, if any, tridymite is present, and no true glass was observed. In other respects the 
varieties seem nearly identical. 

Samples of the rock submitted to Dr. T. M. Chatard, of the Geological Survey, for chemical 
analysis, yielded results given below : 

[I is the ligUt-colorod tridymite-bearing variety ; II, the dark variety.] 



Iguition 
SiOi . . . . 
TiOv.... 
AliOs .. 

FeO .... 
MuO... 
CaO .... 
MgO... 
TjOs.... 
Na-iO... 
KvO ... 



I. 


ir. 


.99 


.34 


56.07 


51. 54- 


1.24 


.32 


19.06 


20.31 


5.39 


4.64 


.92 


3.56 


.23 


.32 


7.70 


9.55 


2.12 


3.16 


.16 


.r,^ 


4.52 


4.29 


1.24 


2.47 


99.64 


101.07 



The low percentage of silica in the rocks is especially interesting, and would seem to point to 
the presence of very basic iilagioclases. To satisfactorily determine this point an attempt was 
made to separate the feldspars from both rocks by means of the iodide of mercury and potassium 
solution. At a specific gravity of 2.7 a considerable quantity of the powder from the light variety 
came down, which, on examination with the microscope, proved to be nearly all feldspar, with 
small portions of the groundmass, and included iron ores and hornblimde particles. After stand- 
ing over night a further precipitation was observed to have taken place, which, on examination, 
proved to be very pure feldspar. A sample of this last submitted to Trofessor Clarke for further 
examination yielded 55.29 per cent, of silica, which is about the right proportion for labradorite. 
Owing, however, to the somewhat crude method of separation, I do not feel at all certain that 
ihis is the only feldspar present, and it is very probable that witli better facilities other results 
might bo obtained. It is possible that the first portion to come down may have been auorthite, 
as suggested by Mr. Diller in Science of January 23, 1885. 

With the dark variety of the rock no satisfactory results could be obtained, it being found 
impossible to separate the vt-ry impure feldspar from the groundmass with any facilities at my 
command. 

Especial thanks are due Professor Clarke and Dr. Chatard for the excellent chemical work 
done by them in this connection. 

National Museum, February 23, 1885. 



' Mikrosoopisclie Physiographie der Miueralien, etc., p. 227. 





WHALER WORKING THROUGH A LEAD. 




NATIVE HOUSE AT POINT HOPE, ALASKA. 



A NARRATIVE ACCOUNT 



EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA, 



UNDER THE DIRKCTION OF 



CAPT. MICHAEL A. HEALY, 
Commanding U. S. Revenue Steamer Corwin, 

BY 

THIRD LIEUT. J. C. CANTWELL, 

U. S. Revenue Marine. 

1 H S 4 . 

(ILLUSTRATKD WITH FOUR PI..\TES AND FOUR SKETCHES.) 



j^.^xv,0^^ . V';' '^.ift- 













-^^!Sja! 



SUMMER TRADING RENDEZVOUS, HOTHAM INLET. 





SCAFFOLDING FOR DRYING FISH, HOTHAM INLET. 



ORDERS TO LIEUT. J. C. CANTTVELL. 



U. S. Revenue-Maeine Steamer Corwin, 

Koizehve Sound, July 8, 1884. 

Sir: The Department desiring to ascertain the extent of the Kowak River, together with 
the ohanicter of the country through which it runs, the number and extent of its tributaries, the 
number, condition, habits, and customs of the inliabitants, and, iu general, everything of interest 
to science and commerce relating thereto, you have been selected to take command of an adequate 
parly from this vessel, and to proceed to the mouth of the said river ami begin the compilation of 
the data required, extending your explorations as far toward the source of the river as is possible 
with boats, aud until the 20th day of August, 1884, when you will rejoin the Corwm at Hotham 

Inlet. 

In pursuit of the object mentioned you will make as accurate a survey of the river as is 
possible with the instruments furnished and the time allowed you. 

You will keep exhaustive notes of its width and depth, and force of tiie current, as well as an 
accurate account of the position of obstructions to navigation, such as rocks, shoals, sand-bars, 
or rapids, occurring in the course of your survey. 

All information touching the fauna and flora and the general resources of the country is of 
the utmost value, and you will be particular to see that such a recor.l is kept as will furnish the 
substance of an accurate report on these subjects. Mr. Miller, who is to accompany you, is a 
practical miner, and you are directed to give him every opi)ortunity for prospecting the country, 
aud to embody in your report the result of his investigations. 

In this connec'tion it may be well to call your attention to the supposed existence of jade in 
this region; if this supposition should prove true the discovery would be one of great value. 
Frequent reports of your progress will be sent by native messengers to the Coricin at Hotham 

Inlet. 

Should the Kowak Uiver prove not of sufhcient length to warrant a survey, you wdl turn 
your attention to the survey and exploration of Selawick Lake, or any navigable stream which you 
"may discover in tlie neighborhood. As many specimens as iwssiblo will be collected. They wdl 
belong to the Governmeut, but where duplicates are obtained there will be no objection to the 
members of your party procuring them, providing that in case of a preference by selection the 
Government shall have the precedence. 

It will perhaps be found necessary in your communication with the natives to engage in trade 
in order to secure their help in case of need, and consequently you are iiermitted to do so ibr that 
purpose; but you will understand that this permission is restricted, and on no account are you to 
make a display of goods in a manner calculated to excite their cupidity or awaken their distrust. 

In dealing with the natives you will be careful to enforce the strictest integrity on the part of 
each member of your party, and should a collisiou take place between your people and the natives 
you will try and make good your retreat without bloodshed. If, however, this be iuipossible, act 
with firmness, decision, and moderation. Should any of your party become seriously ill you will 
abandon the expedition and return t<i Hotham Inlet, and there await the Concin'H return. Iu case 
she does not return before September 19, 1884, you will take her absence as an evidence of acci- 
II. Mis. (502 4 *^ 



50 CRUISE OF TDE STEAMER CORWIK 

dent, and you will then proceed with .vour command to St. Micliael's, or the Diomedes Island, and 
iVoni there take pa.ssagre for yourself and party by the first vessel bound for San Francisco or any 
other port of the United States, reportini,^ your arrival in the United States to the Secretary of the 
Treasury, and await further instructions. You will use your discretion in the manner of your 
reaching St. Michael's, and should you decide to go by land, you will lay your boats up carefully 
and start as early as possible nfter the 2Ist day of Se])teniber, 18S4. In case you discover any 
tributary or other coninuinieation leading from the Kowak into tlie Arctic, Ocean or Bering Sea, 
and the journey to either outlet will consume more than the time allowed you, yon will first com- 
municate with the Coricin, and in no case will you place yourself or your command in a position 
where such commuuication will be impossil)le. or where you will be compi'llcd to winter in tlie 
country. 

I would particularly caution you to be economieal in the expenditure of your ammunition and 
provisions. 

Second Assistant Engineer McLenegan has been si)ecially detaileil tn make a collection of 
specimens of the fauna and flora, and of the birds and fishes peculiar to tliis region, as well as to 
make notes in regard to the general features of the country through whicii you may ])ass. 

In addition to liiese special duties he will at all times be subject to your orders as to any 
assistance you may recpiire of him in your survey of the river. Yon will afford him all possible 
assistance in (he performance of the duty to which he has been assigned. 

In ascending the river, in case the launch become unserviceable through any cause whatever, 
you will cause lier to be placed in a secure place and pro|)erly protected from the weather, and 
leave, if possiMe, a re.-])oiisible person to take care of her until you descend the river, when you 
will bring her down with you to the vessel. 

Wishing you a pleasant voyage and feeling confident of your ability to make it a success, 
I am, very respectfully, 

M. A. Healy, 
Captain, U. <S'. Revenue Marine. 

Lieut. J. C Cantwell, 

U. S. Revenue Marine. . 



LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 



U. S. Revenue Steamer Corwin, 

San Francisco, CaL, November 13, 1884. 

Sir: Herewith I have the honor to transmit a transcript of the jonrnal ot" the progress of an 

expedition sent from the Corwin during the last summer for the exi)U)nitiou of the Kowak Kiver. 

A chart of the river, as far as has been explored, showing the surroundings, width, and 

character of tlie shores, in detail, is now being prepared and will be finished in the course of a 

week or ten days. 

While I regret the failure of the expedition to accomplish the prime object for which it was 
sent, namely, the exploration of a lake whicii is supposed to exist at the he;i(l waters of the river, 
1 can not refrain from saying that much useful information and experience have been olXained, 
which will be of great service in future explorations in this direction. There seems to be no 
reasonable doubt of the existence of a large lake at or near the headwaters of the Kowak. The 
Indians spenk constantly of it and say that from the mountains around its ni)]i('r jiortion the "sea 
is visible in one direction." They also report that short portages are here made which bring them 
to the Yukim K'iver by way of the Kuryukuk in one direction and to tiie sea, by way of another 
river in the other. The query arises: Is this latter the Colville Kiver? If so, a ready means of 
communication couhl be established between the settlements on the Yukon River and those on the 
shores of the Arctic Ocean. The importance of such a communication can liardly be overestimated. 
The vast tract of country lying within the Arctic Circle and between meridians 13.5° and l()5o west 
longitude remains practically unexplored. With the exception of the coast and the comparatively 
small ]tortions drained by the Porcupine and Kowak Rivers, this vast region is as little known as 
when first discovered. That this country is rich in mineral deposits is fully attested by the many 
specimens of ore brought to the coast by the nomadic tribes of Indians wiio roam Ihe mountains 
in search of the bear, moose, and deer during the winter months, and by the frequent indications of 
gold ami silver seen by our party in our progress up the Kowak. These indications increased as 
we advanced, and the conclusi n is irresistibly reached tliat among the higli mountains which for n 
the watershed for the Kowak, Kuryukuk, and (possil)ly) (Jolville Rivers the precious metals may 
be found in large quantities. 

The question of the commercial importance of explorations in this region, however, sinks into 
insignificance when their relation to the cause of humanity is considered. Scarcely a year passes 
that does not carry with it a sad record of suffering and disaster to those whose business or duty 
brings them into the waters of the Arctic Ocean. In the i)nrsuit of their calling the hardy whale- 
men often press to the eastward beyond Point Barrow, and sometimes it happens that, lured on 
by their rich quarry, they are delayed until the ice forms around Point Barrow and their retreat 
in this direction is cut off. If it were known that a communication by river could be made with 
the Yukon there would still be time enough to lay their vessels uj) in sonic convenient bay on 
the northern coast and reach civilization and safety before the long, dreary winter sets in. But 
in the absence of any authoritative information on the subject, they look with sailors' natural dread 
on the dark wilderness, and, witli a wild hope that they may yet escape, turn their ship's head 
toward the treacherous icie. A crushed and dismantled hulk, a few bleached and mangled bones, 

51 



52 CRDISE OF THE STEAMER CUKVVIN. 

or a wild disjointed story of misery and death related by the natives too often shows how bitterly 
hopeless was the struggle ! 

I am ha[)i)y to be able to say that our relations with the natives were without exception most 
cordial and friendly, and I believe should another expedition be sent up the river they will be 
found ready and anxious to Ui'lp it forward witii all riieans at their (toinmand. 

In c()nclusion, I may p('rhai)s be excused 11' I congratulate you upon your selection of Mr. 
McLenegan to prepare a report of the natuiiil history and resources of the country through which 
we passed. After reading his report I am ('onvinced that its coin[)leteness leaves nntliing to be 
desired. 

Thanking you for the confidence you evinced in selecting nie to take charge of so important a 
work, and again expressing my regret that circumstances so combine<l as to defeat in a measure 
the prime object of the expedition, 

I am, sir, with much respect, your obedient servant, 

John 0. Cantwell, 
Third Lieutenant, U. S. Revenue Marine. 
Capt. M. A. Healy, 

Vommanding Revenue Steamer Voncin. 



EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA. 



July 8, 1884. — The expedition for the exploration of the Kowak started from the Corwin 
anchored off Cape Krusensteru, and headed in towards Hotham Inlet. The party was composed 
of the following: 

Third Lieut. John C. Cautwell, in charge; Second Assistant Engineer S. B. McLenegan ; Quar- 
termaster Horace Wilbur; Fireman Frank Lewis; James Miller, miner; Andre Fernda, guide and 
interpreter. 

We iiad two small boats in addition to the steam-lannch of the Corwin, and in them were 
stowed such articles of camp outtit and supplies as could not be carried in the launch. 

We made but slow progress against the brisk wind blowing from ahead, and it was not until 
near noon that we reached smooth water under the lee of (Jape Blossom, an^l began our search lor 
a channel through Hotham Inlet. This proved no easy task, and tlie assistance of Piloi Douglas, 
who joined ns at this juncture with the surf-boat, was most opportune and welcome. While we 
sounded along the western edge of the shoal, which lies at the entrance of the inlet, Mr. Douglas 
searched foi' the channel along the north shore, but at a o'clock we met, and neither party had 
been successful. Soon after, the tide falling, the launch grounded and we were compelled to bring 
to. The eastern side of the shoal still remained unexplored, and Mr. Douglas and I started in 
this direction with the surf-boat, leaving the launch aground in about two and one half fi'et of 
water. We stood well over towards the eastern shore of Hotham Inlet, and when about half a 
mile from the beach suddenly ran into a deep channel, which evidently formed the entrance to the 
inlet. We returned to the launch and lightened her of everything movable, and by dint of hard 
shoving with oars and poles were enabled to reach the deep water, and at 7 o'clock selected a suit- 
able place to remain for the night and pitched our tent on the beach. Mr. Douglas returned to 
the Corwin after we had comiTleteil our arrangements for the night, and 1 took this opportunity of 
reporting our progress to t!aptain Healy and to request him to send me a i)atent log and nautical 
almanac which had been left behind. Distance made, 22J miles. Average temperature, 85°. 

July 9, 1884. — The day commenced with a fresh southeast wind and rainy weather, aud so 
continued throughout. As I had to wait for Mr. Douglas's return, I employed the time in break- 
ing out and restowing our supplies, and in repairing the frame of the skin boat, which had been 
somewhat strained by being heavily loaded. Stepped mast in launch and bent sail, and fitted 
awning so that it could be s)n-oa(l without unstepi)ing the mast every night. I read to the party 
my orders to day and exi)lained to them the general objects of the expedition, the confidence I 
had in its success, aud the desire that we would strive, by a strict attention to duty and a care- 
ful consideration of each other's feelings, to make the trip as pleasant and as free from dissension 
as possible. I assigned Wilbur to the general care of the boats and their gear; Lewis to Ihe 
engine under the supervision of Mr. McLenegan, and to Mr. Miller the care and expenditure of 
provisions was entrusted, he being the most experienced man of the party in this matter. .Vmlie 
was instructed to heli) ]\Ir. Miller when necessary. At 2 p. m., seeing no signs of the surf boal's 
return, we broke camp aud were about to stand (ni our way when the surf-boat was discovered in 

53 



54 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

the sound beadiug towards us. She shortly afterward came up, and Jlr. Douglas delivered nie 
the articles I had requested, and a few extra provisions which had been sent by our shipmates on 
the Corwin. We now stood for the entrance to the inlet, running up a deep channel wLich trends 
close to the eastern shore, finding from four to tive fathoms of water. Rounding the bluff head- 
lands of Ilothani Inlet we stood up tin; bay to tiie southeast, liiiiling a ilisagrceabh^ head sea ami 
wind to contend against. We constantly shipped witcr forward, and as the two boats towed 
hard, but little heailway was made. The shores on the right side of the bay were steep and com- 
posed of clay bluffs some two or three hundred feet high, backed by rolling tundra land. The left 
shore, however, was low and swampy and covered with many lagoons. I learned from the Indian 
guide Natorak, who had been sent by Captain Heal^- to accompany us, that the Kowakhad fifteen 
moutlis, and hat the low shore on our left was the delta, and was some fifty miles in length. 
Towaid 9 o'<'iock 1 observed a lagoon on the right side of the inlet which afforded a good shelter 
from the wind, which was now on the increase, and we made for it. At 10 o'clock W'e came to and 
pitched the camp, having made '2'2.'t miles. Average temperature, 90°. 

July 10, ISSI. — Tlie day i;ommenced with a strong northeast wind, and as the Indian informed 
ine that the sea would be niiu;li heavier as we proceeded further up the inlet, I determined to wait 
until the gale had abated. In order to lighten the boats as much as possible, I made a cache here 
of three cans of i)emmican, two cans of potatoes, an oil stove, and a can of coal oil, these articles 
being thought unnecessary for immediate use. At 10 o'clock the wind decreased and the sea rap- 
idly went down, so that we were enabled to get under way. Stood up the bay and got along very 
well until we lost the shelter of a ]ioint jutting into the inlet from the west side. The soundings 
gradually decreased from four fathoms of water into as many feet, when we keptaway again towards 
the mouth of the river. At 7 o'clock we observed a break in the low laud of the delta, aiul Nato- 
rak pointed out the channel leading to the mouth of the river. A remarkable peak ahead and a 
high V)lutf point on the western shore form a range for this entrance. We carrie<l in one and a half 
fathoms, but the channel is narrow and would be dillicult to find. This mouth of the river is some 
two hundred yards in width, and we found from two and a half to three fathoms of water, with no 
shoals or obstructions. The banks are low and marshy and covered by a dense undergrowth of 
willow and birch trees. At 8 o'clock we pitched our tent on the right bank, and were immediately 
attacked by myriads of mosquitoes, which seemed to be of the most malignaut disposition and 
made the work of the cami> a most disagreeable duty. 

JmZ^ 11, 1SS4. — At 5 o'clock ail hands were called and a hasty breakfast prei)ared. At 7.30 
we were under way once more and stood up the river. Both banks continued low and are covered 
with a dense undergrowth. We passed many deserted huts, but saw no natives until about 10 
a. m., when we observetl a collection of hats on the right bank, and upon landing discovered a 
native and his family, who were greatly surprised at our appearance. The children were perfectly 
naked and retired i)reci))itately to their huts. Here we were iuformed that many natives had 
starved during the winter. After leaving this jjlace the banks gradually increased in height, and 
the current, which had been reckoned at two knots per hour in the morning, increased to three 
knots by night. The course of the river was exceedingly tortuous, and we sometimes found our- 
selves, after running two hours, back within a quarter of a mile of our starting i)oint. At 4 o'clock 
a group of huts was observed on a high Itlack bluff on the right side, and we ran into a little 
creek near by and landed to communicate with the natives. A letter was hauiled to me which 
had been left by Lieut. George M. Stoney July 27, 1883. He named the settlement Gilderville. 
Soundings were regular throughout the day and showed an increase of from three and a half to 
five fathoms, and the width of the stream varied from one-half to three-quarteis of a mile. Many 
offshoots of the main stream were observed and all were on the left side. At 7 p. m. we came to 
and pitched our tent, having made 3Ii miles. Average temperature, 8.5°. 

July 12, 1881. — At 7.30 a. m. wc got under way, after leaving two bags of coal here to take 
us to the mouth of the river on our return. Up to this spot no timber hail been seen, but during 
the day we ]>assed tnany clusters of i>iue trees, and towards thc^ night the banks were well covered 
with a growth of pine, birch, and willow. At 8 30 we stojiped to c.it wood in a bend of the river 
where it bas a large offshoot running to the wcvstvvard Xatorak informed me that this was the 
last branch of the river delta, and flowed into notliam Inlet near its lower portion. At 9 o'clock 



CUUISE OF Tllli aiEAMEU (JORVVIN, 55 

we started ii|)streaiii again, hut tlie steaiu rapiilly Ml ami we were corn])elle(l to stop and try 
anotlifi' kind of wood. At noon the sun came out and 1 got an observation for latitude and fixed 
the position at (J<!o 15' 17" north, longitude Kilo Hi' 10" west. At 1.30 went ahead again, but after 
the pressure attained by standing still bad been reduced, the steam rai)idly fell anil we were again 
comi)elled to stoi). Tlie wood was now split up tiuer aud we tried it again, this time with better 
success, and we were rejoiced to see the little launch slowly but surely forge ahead against the 
strong current. At -.30 we discovered a remarkable glacier-lilie formation extending for a distance 
of three (|uarters of a mile along the right side of the river. A solid mass of ice, superi)osed by 
a thin layer of dark colored soil, the whole rising to a height of some 150 feet, forms the bank. 
Trees stood toppling over the edge of the bank, ready to fall, and others had fallen and lay like a 
fringe along its base. At 9 p. m. we reached a narrow bend in the river and found the current 
running with great velocity. In attempting to anchor for the night the warp was violently jerked 
out of AmLe's hands and the anchor lost. We immediately set to work to recover it by dragging 
the bottom, but as there wore from six to eight fathoms of water and the current ran about seven 
knots, we were unsuccessful. Distance made during day, 'Jih miles. Average temperature, 90^. 

July 13, 18S4. — The day began with a light southeast wind and rain. At 6.30 we had break- 
fast aud reconamenced search for the lost anchor. Finding drag-lines of no service, long jjoles 
with hooks on the euds were substituted, but after three hours' work I was compelled to give it up 
and [troceed up the river. We made a tempor.uy anchor of willow forks in the absence of any- 
thing better. Up to this time not a sign of a stotie had been seen on the banks, nor, indeed, had 
any been brought down with the ice, the cruud)ling nature of the bank would have prevented its 
remaining there. During the night I was awakened bj- a sudden and tremendous roar, and in the 
morning I observed the cause of the disturbance. A huge piece of earth, one hundred feet square, 
had lieuonie detached from the bank and had fallen into the water. All day long tlie river grew 
narrower and the current more rapid. The bends were more abrupt and around the longest sides 
of the bends the water swirled into eddies too strong for the launch to overcome. Foot by foot 
the little craft crawled ui) in the back\\ater, and we took advantage of every projecting point to 
get ahead. We experienced much trouble in keeping steam. During the afternoon we ran into a 
reach of the river extending for about six miles in a northeasterly direction, aud the vista was one 
of surpassing loveliness. The river suddenly widened to half a mile, and both banks were low 
and green in the sunshine, whihi beyond aud partly hidden by a light mist a range of rugged 
mountains could be seen, lying cool and tranquil in the distance. At the end of this long reach in 
the river we came upon a succession of high blufls formed by the foothills of the mouutains run- 
ning in on the river. Their sides were clothed with the sweet-smelling pine and juniper, and a 
narrow, rocky beach lay at their bases. Tier*; we pitched the camp at 7.30 p. m. The sides of the 
hills were dotted with many species of wild flowers, and under the pines the moss-covered ground 
was like velvet to the touch. We would have called it Utopia had not tlie mosquitoes nearly 
driven us wild. As it was we named the halt Uighland Encampment. To day we added 24.9 
miles to the distauce already made. 

July 14, 1884. — At 5 a. m. called all hands aud began cutting wood. The day began with rain 
aud so continued throughout. At 10 a. m. we finished wooding and breakfast aud stood up the 
river. At 1 p. m. we discovered a river running in from the northeast. The native name is 
Sheeleelictok or Squirrel River, and its source is in the mountains, one day's portage from the 
headwaters of the Nunat(dv, whicli flows into Kotzebuo Sound at Flotham lulet. Here we were 
puzzled as to the projier course to take, as three water ways, all equally large, were in sight. How- 
ever, choosing the center stream as likely to be the best, we pushed ahead, and soon entered into 
a part ot the river where many sand bars contracted the channel so much that it was har<l work to 
get ahead against the current. 

We could not keep steam sufficient to go ahead more than for about ten minutes, when we 
would be comjielled to stop and " bottle up." Early in the afternoon the current becan.e so rapid, 
and we got on shore so many times, that I dropped the two boats and ordered them ahead in slu)al 
water under the care of Andre and Matorak. The left shore was high, rolling land to the water's 
edge, ,111(1 terminated by a beach comjiosed of variously colored stones of lime formation. Huge 
bowlders of mi'tamorphic rock crop out at inlrivals from amoug the dense growth of pme anil 



66 CfiUlSE OF THE STEAMElt CORW'IN. 

birch which lines the shore. On the right side the shores were so low that I suspected the land 
to be an island, and at 6 p. in. I discovered this to be a fact, as we arrived at the other end, where 
the river is divided into two parts, forming an island of about ten miles in length. At 7 j). m. we 
pitched our camp on the uortii ])()int of the island, having made 15i miles during the day. 

July 15, 1884. — At 4 a. m. called all hands and broke camp; had breakfast and got under way 
at 5 a. in. At a. m. stopped iind cached the skill' on a point bearing cast from the camp, it being 
thought nnadvisable to tow her any longer. The river gradually broadened, the bends were less 
abrupt, and along the shores the current was not as strong as we advanced. At about 9 o'clock 
we found ourselves beyond the mountains at last, and a long view of the river was exposed to our 
gaze. Ou our left the mountains were about three thousand feet high and heavily timbered around 
their bases, while at the water's edge the shore was fringed l)y drooping willows and alder trees. 
The mountains in this locality are from three to four thousand feet in height and lie parallel to the 
river's course. At about noon we noticed a peculiar-looking blnff on the left bank and ran across 
the river to investigate. The blnff itself was a species of carboniferous sandstone, and near it on 
the beach we i)icUed up particles of coal which had evidetitly not been floated very far, as they 
were but little worn. Pursuing our journey and examining the banks for further evidences of 
coal, we soon came in sight of a dark colored bhiflf jutting into the water from the left side of the 
stream, and landin-j, discovered coal in large quantities and of fair quality lying on the surface. 
With picks and shovels we made a vigorous attack on the sideof the hill and soon had the bunkers 
of the launch filled with coal, and once more we started ahead. It did not burn as freely as we 
could wish, bnt there is no doubt that coal of excellent quality is here in large quantities, super- 
posed by a thin layer of inferior coal. The day was rainy and overcast throughout, so that I did 
not get any observation. The width of the river varied from five to nine hundred yards and sound- 
ings from two to five fathoms in mid-channel. At C.30 p. m. wo camped at a deserted Indian 
village, having made twenty-eight miles during the day. Average temperature, !)()°. 

Jvly 16, 1884. — The day began with heavy rain and calm; middle part cloudy, and ended with 
clearing weather. At 9 a. in. the rain decreased sufficiently to allow us to pack our stores, and we 
broke camp and proceeded up the river. Discovered large quantities of coal in tlie left bank, 
which was composed of a beautiful white clay suitable for pottery. We landed and filled our 
bunkers, bnt upon trial the coal was found not to burn well, whether on account of its quality 
or the fact that the clay adhering to it stopped up the draft I am unable to say. To day we 
encouuteieil our first rapids ; the water rushed around the rocks bordering the left shores with great 
velocity, and I crossed the river, hoping to find less current under the opposite bank. A slough 
cut the bank in such a way that I thought the current must be less, but I was mistaken, and the 
mistake nearly hist the lanncli. We attempted to cross the slough and get the shelter of the 
opposite point, but when about half way across the steam suddenly went down and the current 
bore the launch on to a gravel s])it and she rolled over on her beam ends. All hands plunged 
overboard and righted her, and we got her back by hard pushing and pulling to a safe anchorage. 
Finding the coal useless for our purposes we threw it out and loaded the boats with wood, and 
after getting a good head of steam I got a line to the shore and every one, with the exception of 
the fireman and myself, left the launch and assisted by hauling on the line. In this manner we 
were enabled to get over the worst part of the rapids, and after the skin boat had been brought 
over in charge of Mr. McLenegan we i>ushed on up the river. Our progress, however, was very 
slow, and we were compelled to stop many times on account of the lack of steam sufficient to 
stem the current. At 7.30 we arrived at an Indian fishing village, having made but six miles up 
stream. The river did not alter much in appearance or width, but the number of shoal places 
increased and the channel was found to be more crooked in consequence. We found the natives 
busily engaged in re]>airing their nets preparatory for the rnn of salmon. They were very kind, 
but did not have much to offer us in the way of game or fish. 

July 17, 1884. — When we awoke this morning the rain was pouring down in a steady stream, 
and did notecase until 9 o'clock, when we got under way and stood uj) the river. A number of 
natives had preceded us to a i)lace where suitabU^ wood could be obtained, and for a small quantity 
of tobacco agreed to have sufllcient quantity of wood cut to last us through the day. Here I saw 
a specimen of green stone which the Indians informed me had been obtained from the mountains 



CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COEWIK 57 

about five days further 4ip stream. Tliey say that whoever goes to that mountain and brings away 
any stone will be alllicted with some dreadful maUidy ever afterwards, and that the stone belongs to 
tlie natives and not to the white men. I argued that the stone did not belong to them individually, 
hut had come to them from their great-grandfathers, who were also our greatgrandfathers. 
This direct claim to relationship did not meet with a very cordial reception, but they were not 
inclined to discuss the matter any further. All day the Indians hovered about us in their frail 
Itirchbark canoes, and it was wonderful to see with what ease and address they ventured into 
l)laccs wheie 1 know the cumbersome launch would have been unmanageable. At 4 p. m. we 
arrived at a second Indian village and found the natives, as usual, impassive and undemonstrative, 
but not unkind, for when our fires were lighted a little girl came up and laid a bunch of fresh lish 
near at hand and then stole away as if fearful of disturbing us. We camped eaily to oblige 
the " shaman" of the village, who desired to i)erform the ceremonies of his oiiice for our especial 
benefit. After the sun had gone down behind the hills he retired to his tent, and shortly after- 
wards a tremendous beating of drums, singing, and howling were heard from the interior. Tlie 
front of the tent was thrown back and the "shaman" was discovered sitting between his two wives, 
alternately beating a tambourine-like drum and uttering short sentences as if in conversation with 
some unseen party. A crowd soon gathered, and the utmost attention was given to the imposter, 
who, I must say, acted the role of medium to perfection. We left him in his glory at about 9 p. m., 
but the sound of his drum was heard until long after midnight. To-day we made 14J miles. The 
river varied from two to six hundred yards in width. The banks were moderately high, and back 
of them was the usual rolling tundra land running to the mountains about twenty miles distant. 
Soundings were from two to five fathoms and the current varied from two to six knots per hour. 

Jmz/iS, 1884.— We were detained as usual this morning by a heavy rain, which began at about 
4 a. m. and continued until 9 a. m., when the wind came out from the northeast and the weather 
gradually cleared sufiSciently to allow us to break camp. Before leaving I was called upon to treat 
a native for colic, and relieved him by administering a dose of Pain Killer and applying a 
mustard plaster. To-day we had another experience in the rapids. Shortly after leaving the \illage 
we came to a part of the river where it is about half a mile wide and the depth of the water 
deceases from six fathoms to as many feet. The channel contains more water, but the shoals 
extend in all directions, and in some places are bare. The velocity of the current was about seven 
knots, and it was only by bottling up steam and getting out warps ahead that we managed lo get 
through and in view of a beautiful part of the river. Ahead and on our left high, rugged mount- 
ains, whose summits were still covered by snow, were reflected with mirror-like truth in the now 
placid stream. Between us and the mountains there stretched a low, undulating country, crossed 
by many streams which tumbled down the gulches and formed cascades and small lakes, giving 
life and spirit to the picture. In this way we struggled on, sometimes finding the current almost 
too strong for us to stem, and then hardly perceptible. Wood along the banks became scarce, 
and we were much delayed in getting a supply. At 7 o'clock a high serrated mountain was 
discovered ahead, and the Indian guide told us it was the Ashiganok or green-stone mountain. The 
mosquitoes were worse than ever, and some of our party were almost unrecognizable fro)u the 
effects of these pests. It is no uncommon thing to see, a man who has been cutting wood a little 
way from the banks suddenly drop his ax and rush frantically for the river, his face and hands 
covered with blood. The hoods we made are but little protection, as the mosquitoes sting through 
the cloth with appareut ease. At 7.:!() p. m. we camped on a high wooded bluff on the right shie 
of the stream, having made 14J miles during the <lay. 

Jiihj 19, 1884.— Begins with heavy rain and cloudy weather. Mid part cloudy and ends 
cloudy, with passing showers. At 5.;5() a. m. called all hands and began caitting wood. At '.».;50 
finished breakfast, broke (tamp, and got under way. During the day lh(^ left shores were observed 
to be low, with rolling back country to the mountains, sixteen miles distant, varied by (M;ca- 
sional ridges running in at. an angle with the river course and forming blufl's. On our right the 
banks were from seventy-five to one hundred feet high, with high rolling country back of the 
river, covered by a thick growth of pine, birch, and spruce trees of small size. The In.lians still 
hovered about our expedition, now dropping behiml and again shooting ahead to show us the deep 
water. Two of their number were inducted to join our party and help Andre and Natorok with 



58 CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. 

the skiu boat. For this service we were obliged to give them something to eat ia addition to a 
small quantity of tobacco. They all say that they do not want much pay, but "sonu-thiiig to 
eat." I sent one fellow gunning during the afternoon, and he promi-scd to be back the next day. 
Onr expedition wound its slow way along the banks of the river, sometimes getting ashcio in 
.shoal water and sandy bottom, and then escaping, as if miraculously, being dashed onto tlic recks, 
which were only to be discovered bj' a jieculiar ripi)le on the water. In mid channel there are no 
obstructions, but alongside of the bank, iu the present stage of the wa'tcr, many jutting rocks lie 
just beneath the surfa(!e. About 3 ()'(-lock we observed a dangerous ledge which makes out from 
Some high rocky clilfs on the right and extends about thirty feet into tlie river. All day we have 
been steaming toward the mountain of the mysterious green stone ; sometimes standing up iilain 
to our sight and sometimes obscnied by li(!a\y masses of clouds, its presence was ever felt, and it 
seemeil to me to hohl within its sliadows some mysterious charm, some fasc'inaliiig secret which 
must be wrested from its grasi». As the day closed and the soft liglit of night came on, we pitched 
our tent on the side of a woody hill. A beautiful waterfall tumbled down its sides, and amid the 
trees I saw the familiar forms of the rol)in, the swallow, and the sparrow, and as tiiey fluttered 
about our camp our tlioughts were carried back to our homes. The river is much discolored by 
the streams running in from the mountains, and are usually of a dark reddish color, while that of 
the nurin stream is beautifully clear and several degrees lower in temi)erature. To-day we made 
16.3 miles. Average temperature, 95°. 

July 20, 1884. — Begins with moderate southeast wind and rain. Mid part wind shilted to 
northeast and blew strong with heavy rain squalls. Ends light northeast breeze, overcast and 
passing showers. The left shores were generally low, with rolling country back to the mountains. 
On the right the banks were high, and occasionally sand bluiis were observed with a sparce growth 
of i)ine trees on top. In many places the high banks had crumbled away .""nd trees had tumbled 
down with their toi)s in the water and their roots resting on the accumulation of loose earth near 
the water's edge. At 1 a. m. called all hands and began usual preparations for the day. At 8.30 
got under way and stood up the river. In a short time we reached the camp of our Indian fellow- 
voyagers, and observing a signal made to us we ran in, and th^^ Indian to whom I had given 
ammunition to hunt with the day before brought us a brace of geese as the result of his night's work. 
Our stock of meat, small iu the beginning, was growing alarmingly scant. It w as impossible for 
us to get game without delaying the i)rogress of the expedition, as the geese and ducks feed iu 
lakes and lagoons from three to live miles in the interior. To-day as I walked along the banks I 
saw many trsvcks of brown bear, and Amire informed me that he had seen bear and porcupine 
tracks also during the day on the opposite side. Our advance today was varied by a sea.son of 
rest from mosquitoes, but we had to submit to a lesser evil in the form of a \ iolcnt rain-storm. 
The clouds hung low on the mountains early in the morning, and toward noon the wind shifted 
from southeast to northeast, and blew in strong puti's down the mountain gorges. I saw the wind 
coming and hastily picked up the skin boat, which was being towed along the banks by the three 
Indians with Andre in charge, and hoisting our sail we sped up stream at a I'amous rate. For the 
first time since we entered the river we seemed to be really going ahead, and nr) amount of rain 
could dampen the enthusiasm of our party. This, however, did not last long. The rain ceased 
about 4 p. m., and the clouds rolled upwards and rested on the highest i>eaks of the mountains. 
At 7.30 we camped at the foot of a sandhill on the right side of the river, ha\iug made 26.4 
miles during the day. Average temperature, 90°. 

Jub/ 21, 188i.— Begins with moderate southeast wind and partly cloudy with i)assing showers, 
and continued so throughout the day. (Jailed all hands at 4 a. m. and got under way at 8. The 
general character of the shores remained the same as yesterday, but the current was found to be 
stronger than ever, and about noon we ran into a i)art of tlu^ river where the channel is divided 
into two parts by a sand shoal extending for about a tpnirter of a mile i)aiallel to the river's course 
and reaching nearly from shore to shore. Here the current M'as found to be so strong that it was 
almost impossible to get ahead at all. Frequent stoi)s had to be made to allow the steam to run up, 
and the time thus lost was not regained, as we found witli the utmost i)ressure that we could safely 
carry that wo could not go half as fast as the skin boat, which was being towed and i)addled by 
the Indians. In view of these circumstances I decided to abandon the launch for the present and 



CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWIN. 59 

go ahead in the skin boat. The haak connection and furnace doors of the launch needed some 
ro|)uiring:, and it would take two or three days to give her a thorough overliauliug, so that if I 
found tLo condition of the river warranted me in bringing her up further she would be in better 
(iDndilioa tostein the current. We were now quite close to the mountain of the green stone, and 1 
(li'ciilcd to leave Mr. McLeuegan and the miner, Mr. Miller, here for three days with instructions 
to explore the mountains, while I took the launch back to a place where she could bo left in safety, 
and rejoin them at the expiration of that time. Accordingly they were furnished with provisions 
and such articles of camp outfit as could not be dispensed with, and an arrangement for our meeting 
having been agreed upon they set out for the mountains and we turned the launch head down 
stream. We fairly flew now, and I had to order the engine stopped in some places, as I feared if 
she struck anything she would be wrecked. In an hour's time we had gone eleven miles and 
reached our place of encamjjment of the previous night. Observing a number of canoes coming uj) 
tlie river we ran down to them and communicated with the natives. They were goiug to establish 
a fishing village near at hand, and I decided to leave the launch near by, as they would render 
any assistauce to Wilbur and Lewis during our absence. Landing with the Indians we held a 
joint consultation as to my project. I was anxious to obtain their co operation, and wanted to 
hire a half dozen of the natives to assist us with their boats in transporting our stores, camp gear, 
etc. At Crst they declined to go, saying it was too far to the head of the river to get there before 
the fishing season would be past, and that the men who had been sent after the green stone would 
give us bad luck, and a thousand other trivial reasons, which had to be discussed over and over 
again. However, after sitting around our camp fire and smoking our tobacco for half the night, 
three Indians decided to go with us, with the proviso that they were to be furnished with food from 
our stores, besides the ammunition and tobacco I had agreed to give them. When I asked how 
many days it would take to reach the head of the river the most contradictory statements were 
elicited, and it was evident that their answers were prompted by some other reasons than for 
giving us exact information on the subject. They all agreed, however, in the statement that the 
current grows much stronger as the head of the river is approached. The Indians do not travel 
all the way up the river in boats, as the channel is filled by rocks and the banks are so steep that 
it is im[>ossible to tow. The river, they say, is divided into two parts, on(i of which takes its 
source in a lake twenty-five or thirty miles in diameter and almost surrounded by very high and 
rugged mountains, while the other rises farther to the eastward, very near the source of the 
Kuryukuk, a large river which flows into the Yukon at Nulata. 

July 22, 1884. — The day was warm and iileasant and was spent in getting ready for our trip 
in the canoes. We broke out all our stores and bedding and found much dampness everywhere. 
I was not surprised at this, as it had been rainy and dami) ever since we started until today. 
All day the Indiaus kept near our tent and smoked continually. They did not leave for their 
meals but had their wives fetch their food to them. I selected a suitable place for the launch to 
lay while we were gone and started Wilbur to making a temporary boom for the purpose of 
protecting the launch from floating drift-wood. Lewis, the fireman, was set at work on the boiler. 
With the clay which had been picked up at the coal bluff the front and back connection were 
relined and a new lining for the furnace door was cut out. The front connection also required 
some protection from the rain, and orders were given to attend to it. Towards noon it became 
evident that the natives were holding a consultation of unusual interest and soon afterwards 
Audre informed me that they were saying they would not go with me as the summer was too far 
gone and they must fish. I knew this was a trivial excuse, as the women do all the fishing, but 
was satisfied that I had to use some caution in expressing my doubts as to their fidelity, and when 
they came to talk it over with us I gave them to understand that the ammunition which I i)ro 
posed to give them would more than offset any disadvantages they might ex[)erience in going with 
me. They then demanded half their pay in advance, which was granted, but this did not satisfy 
them, for they now came back and said I must make deer very plentiful and close to their homes 
this winter. This remarkable request was occasioned by tlie fact that they thqught I was a 
"shaman" from .seeing me at work with the sextant and artificial horizon. I had no alternative 
but to promise plenty of deer, and again they were satisfied, and again they came back with more 
requests until I had nearly lost my patience. However, we kept steadily at work getting ready, 



60 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

aud at 11 p. in. I turned in satisfied tbat tbey were at last in a fair way to make an early start 
with us in the moniiug. Temperature, 95°. 

July 23, 1884. — The day began with a light rain, which toward noon increased to a perfect 
torrent, and so continued until near 4 p. ni., wlieu it ceased and the clouds rose from the forest- 
covered hills and hung like a veil around the deeply-scarred sutnuiits of the adjacent mountains. 
At 4 J), ni. 1 called all hands, and with the three Indians from the village aud one boat to lielp us 
we started for our place of meeting with Mr. McLeuegan. We paddled lustily along, and where 
the steej), broken bank allowed a foothold, I put all hands on the bank with a long tow-line, and 
away we bowled up the river a great deal faster than the launch could possibly go. At 1 ]>. m. 
we arrived at the place where we were to meet Mr. McLenegan and Mr. Miller, and, seeing no 
signs of them, pitched our tent and set fire to a dead tree to apprise them of onr return. The 
birch bark canoe which had been brought along was badly broken to day by being dragged over 
a fallen tree, and it is probable we will have to dispense with it. The river rose steadily all 
through the night, and this morning it is a foot higher than the day before. The Indians say it 
is very high now, but that later, when dry weather comes on, it will rajjidly fall, and the whole 
bed of the river, with the exception of the channel, will become dry. We made thirteen miles 
to-day. Temperature, 8.5°. 

July 24, 1884 — The whole day was rainy with frequent squalls. At 7 a. m. Mr. McLenegan 
and Mr. Miller returned from the mountains, and they were in a terribly exhausted condition. 
They had been drenched by the rain and tormented by the mosquitoes ever since leaving the 
river, aud their condition was now real'.y pitiable. Their boots had been worn out by hard walk- 
ing, and tht^y were comjielled to cut pieces from their blankets to bind around their feet. Their 
clothes were torn, and their faces, haggard and blood-stained, fully attested the hardship they 
had undergone iu the brief period since leaving the launch. They brought back specimens of 
green stone which Mr. McLenegan thinks is jade or nephrite. It was out of the question to think 
of their going on without rest, and as the biiehbark canoe could not be rei)aired sufficiently to 
stand rough usage I determined to i)usli on in the skin boat with Andre, Natorok, and the two 
Indians, while Mr. McLenegan, Mr. Miller, and the remaining Indian would return to the launch. 
Accordingly we put the most necessary articles in the skin boat, and leaving the rest in the care 
of Mr. McLenegan I started ahead. At noon we reached a part of the river where it makes a 
sudden bend to the southeast, and the jade mountain could easily bo distiuguished from the 
surrounding peaks on account of its peculiar greenish color. We made good time throughout the 
day, passing through a low, rolling country, backed by mountains on both sides. The current 
remained strong and the depth of water showed no diminution. At 4.30 ]). ni. we passed a 
remarkable (^lay bluff, some 150 feet high aud three-quarters of a mile long, on the right side of 
the river. The constant wear of the ever-rushing stream had undermined the base, and huge 
masses of the bluff would become detached and fall into the water with a terrific roar, and the 
oppressive silence of the wilderness would be broken by a thousand echoes from the neighboring 
cliffs. Mammoth tusks abound in this bluff. Some were seen which were eight inclies in diame- 
ter, but were out of reach under the water. The course of the stream in this locality is very 
crooked, and although we made nearly thirty miles to-day our position in relation to prominent 
mountains in the vicinity had not materially changed. When the sun had set and tlu! shades of 
night were comiug on we reached a deserted village, and as 1 had sent the tent back witli Mr. 
McLenegan we turned in for the night in a vacant hut, where we were at least safe from the rain. 
Despite the bad weather we made 2S.G miles to-day. Average tem])erature, 85°. 

July 25, 1884.— The day was warm and jileasant throughout, and we started to pack our boat 
at 5 a. m., when Andre discovered several places worn throngh on the bottom which had to be 
sewed up before we went any farther. This work delayed us somewhat, and it was not uutil 9 
a. m. that we got off. We made excellent time up the river, but the course of the stream is very 
crooked, and there are a great many islands lying in the bends. The country on both sides was, as 
usual, spongy tundra backed by rolling country to the mountains, sixteen to twenty miles distant. 
The banks of the river are moderately high, and composed of a dark-colored soil of a clayey 
nature, above which lies a thick layer of black earth in which the fiber of decayed vegetable matter 
can be seen in great quantities. The banks seem to ho undergoing a continual change of form, as 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 61 

we frequently saw portions twenty-five to fifty feet square become detached and fall into the water. 
Saud-bars and shoals abound in many places, and the current remained about as usual. Every 
night I set the Indians at work making a map of that part of the river ahead of us, and it is 
remarkable how exact they are in details. From them I learned that during the winter all the 
Indians who come down to fish in the summer live near the headwaters of the river, and that after 
snow has fallen they make sledge journeys to the headwaters of the Koyukuk, where they trade 
with the Yukon Indians, and then go still farther to the northeast until they reach a range of very 
high mountains, where the moose and mountain sheep are found in great numbers. From two 
distinct sources I learned that the sea could be seen from the mountains on a clear day, but in 
only one direction, the view being shut out in all others by an intervening chain of mountains. 
On the other side of the mountains where they hunt there is a river by which the sea can be reached 
in five days. This is doubtless theColville River. We chased a flock of geese into a small lake 
which has an outlet into- the Kowak this afternoon and killed half a dozen, and as we had had no 
frfesh meat of any kind for some time they proved a welcome addition to our larder. At 9.30 I 
selected a suitable place to camp and we came to, having made 27.4 miles. Temperature, 90°. 

July 2(5, 18S4. — At 5.30 a. m. we started on our way, the weather being warm and pleasant, 
The beach on which we camped is composed of fine sand in which is a great quantity of mica, 
and our clothing glistened in the sun as if we had been sprinkled with diamond dust. 

Andre put two patches on the boat last night, but she has been so long in the water that she is 
thoroughly saturated, and the sand which necessarily gets into her by the men alternately paddling 
and towing her is rotting the skin. The Indians informed me that to-morrow, if we work hard, we 
shall reach an Indian village where I hope to get a boat and send Andre back with word to Mr. 
McLenegan to bring forward the launch. The country bordering the river in this locality is a level 
plain stretching away to the mountains, which extend to the left in a northeasterly direction as 
far as the eye cau see, and on our right there were two ranges visible, the farther one being 
composed of mightier peaks than that nearer at hand, while overall the scene there hung a light 
filmy mist, the exhalations from the spongy tundra, softening the ruggedness of the mountains 
and intensifying the cool grays and blues of the far distance. We came to-day to a place where 
the river is divided into two parts, the left branch winding its sinuous way round the mountains, 
while the right, confined by steep, crumbling banks, still follows the geuural trend of the river to 
the northeast. We chose the right branch to ascend because of its more directness, and toward 
evening arrived at the junction of the Kowak with a small river trending to the southward, on 
which stream I was informed there is a village, where I resolved to go in search of boats next 
morning. The rain came up just as we had pitched our camp, and we crawled under the boat, 
all pretty well tired out after the hard day's work. Today we advanced 25.4 miles. Average 
temperature, 95°. 

Jxily 27, 1884.— At 7.30 a. m. we crawled from underneath our boat aud soou after started up 
the Umakalookta River, which we found exceedingly crooked. I observed a few trees on the banks 
nearly two feet in diameter, but the shores were mostly covered with a dense and almost impene- 
trable thicket of Arctic willow and rank grass. In some places the river was fifty to seventy-five 
yards wide, but as we ascended the shores contracted, and when we stopped at 1 p. m. the stream 
had diminished in width untd it was then but a roaring mountain torrent of some twenty-five feet 
in width. We found from three to four fathoms of water for fifteen or twenty miles, and then the 
depth gradually decreased to ten or twelve feet. There was very little current and we made about 
five miles per hour up stream. At 1 p. m. we arrived at the village and were welcomed with many 
manifestations of delight. Some of the Indians had never seen white men, and they crowded 
around me, examining my clothing, etc., with the greatest curiosity. My watch was a source of 
never-failing interest to all, and whenever I took it out they eagerly i)ressed around me to see it 
opened, when they would express their astonishment by uttering the single word " Kay" in a short 
surprised tone of voice. This ejaculation seems to answer the purpose of expressing either joy or 
grief, admiration or contempt, acquiescence or disapproval. A traveler soon learns to distinguish 
the meaning to be conveyed by the diflt'erence in inflections. Our two river Indians having 
explained the object of our tri|), we had a consultation in which the entire village joined. I 
was disappointed to learn that no boats suitable for our purpose could be olitained, as the frail 



g2 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIX. 

birch-bark canoes they use ia fishing are never taken as far as the head of the river. I was 
informed that it wonkl take ns at least twelve days to reach the head of boat navigation, and that 
then we wonld have to leave onr boats and travel by foot along the bank of the river one day 
more, as there are two waterfalls to be passed, and the river-bed is filled with rocks, and it would 
be folly to attempt to pass tliroiigli the rapids with a boat. I also learned that from this village a 
portage could be made to the Kowak, and we would strike the river some twenty-five or thirty 
miles u]) stream from the mouth of the Umakalookta. The Indians agreed to help us make the 
portage if wo remaiued with them till morning. By this means we could retrieve the day lost 
in coming here, and I detcruiined to take this means of returning to the river. We had some 
delicious salmon for supper to night, freshly caught from the ice-cold little stream which flashes 
down between banks covered with snow to the Kowak, with whose water it mingles and takes 
up its march to the sea. 

July 28, 1884.— At 8 a m. we started on our way to the river by way of the portage, and after 
eioht iiours of hard work we reached the Kowak at a point about thirty-five miles from the mouth 
of the Umakalookta. Our first portage was about a mile over tundra land bordering the Uma- 
kalookta up the side of a hill still covered with snow, and ilown into a small lake, in which we 
launched our boat; and, in company with about twenty Indians who came along with their birch- 
bark canoes, we crossed this lake and gained our second portage. Here it was necessary to take 
the boat through a dense thicket of willows, and the walking was very bad. Over stumps and 
through mud and water sometimes knee deep we floundered along for a distance of a (luarter of a 
mile and again we struck the shores of a lake. This was much larger than the first lake traversed, 
and it took us about four hours to cross it. The high trees of the river could now be seen, but 
between us lay a morass into which we plunged, and for the space of an'hour struggled to 
get through. At last we succeeded and reached the Kowak, whose broad, unobstructed surface 
seemed to welcome us back. Launching our boat we paddled away up stream until we reached a 
small fishing settlement, and here I called a halt, as the skin boat was leaking badly and had 
to be repaired immediately. Andre soon had two Indian women at work on the boat, and while 
he was preparing our supper I climbed up on the side of the mountain and looked around me. The 
river winds its sinuous way around the foot of the mountains and otf into the le\el country 
beyond, its surface sometimes broken into a thousand ripples by the force of the current, and 
a"-ain lying smooth and glassy under the lee of some projecting point. Far beyond a range of 
nrouutains rear their whitened summits to the skies, and the Indians informed uie that from the 
tops of the mountains the high peaks around the head of the river can be seen on a clear <lay. 
Bricflv stated, our condition was as follows: Wo were about 125 miles from the launch and had 
five days' provisions with us. We had still about 275 miles to go before we could reach the water- 
fall at the head of boat navigation. It would take us twelve days to reach this ])oiiit. The Indians 
had a"r(>ed to go with us eight days, and they now wanted to return. It would take seven days 
to -^et^a fresh supply of provisions from the launch, and in the mean time our boat was rotting and 
becoming unsafe from the wear of the sand unavoidably taken in her and by being dragged over 
.shoal places. In the event of an accident to her my base of supplies was so far removed that it 
would be impossible for me to reach it without placing my party in a very bad position. Within 
the last two or three or five days I had observed a considerable fall of the water and a diminution 
of the force of the current, and as the Indians informed me that the wjiter would now get lower 
with every day's fine weather, I decided to abandon the present project and to return to the launch, 
there to niake a fresh start, and by working day and night to get both boats as high as the rapids, 
and then renew tlie attempt to reach the water-fall with the skin boat. Having reai^hed this con- 
elusion we made ready for an early start the next day for the launch. To- night we were presented 
by the Indians with some excellent salmon, and returned the compliment by a present of beads 
and tobacco. Temperature, 95°. 

July 29 1884.— The weather all day was warm and pleasant, but it was so cloudy at noon that 
I coulil not get an observation. The Indians who aceomi)anied us had taken up their residence 
on this beach for all summer apparently, as they had construetea a iiiiniber of houses by weaving 
together the supi)le willow boughs in basket fashion and covering tluin with skins and old i>ieces 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER OORWIN. 63 

of cotton cloth. At 7 a. in. we bade good-bye to them (after distributing some tobacco) and 
started on our way. The scene on the beach was one of life and spirit. The men were all grouped 
together near the center hut aud were waving their arras and shouting vociferously to our two 
ludians, who did not lose an opportunity of shouting quite as lustily in reply. 

The women, in frail canoes, were running out their nets or hauling them up on the gravel 
beach alive with the gleaming white fish, salmon and trout; and as we whirled past them one of 
their number seized a struggling king salmon by the tail and by a dextrous raovemeut twirled it 
high in the air and it fell struggling and flopping into our boat. This feat was greeted with a 
tremendous " kay " of approval, aud the sound of their shouts could be heard long after a bend 
in the river hid them from our view. All day we sped down the river, stopping only once to boil 
a pot of tea and then on again at break-neck speed. Where we had avoided the current in coming 
up we now sought its aid. In the swirls and eddies of deep pools the light skin boat was some- 
times unmanageable, but we escaped any serious injury. About 2 p. m. we were running through 
a narrow and deep slough of the river when suddenly the boat was caught in an eddy and hurled 
with great violence against a steep bank. All of us were unseated by the shock and the midship 
thwart was displaced. An examination disclosed no serious damage, however, and we proceeded. 
I examined the mouth of the Notmoktowoak or "Pack" River, a branch of the Kowak, which 
draius the country between the Noatok and the latter stream, and passed through two sloughs 
which I had not seen in coming up. The character of the shores remained the same throughout 
the day. Steep black banks from twenty to thirty feet high, and occasionally a jutting point of 
fine mica and gravel, show that underneath this layer of mold there is a substratum of sand and, 
I think, clay. The boat leaked considerably during the afternoon and at 8 p. m., when opposite 
the Indian village at which we first camped in coming up, I resolved to stop and have a look at 
her. We hauled her out, but Andre could not find any fresh leaks, although she was thoroughly 
saturated and filled with sand and needed a good drying in order to make her tight. Accordingly 
1 concluded to stop here until the next night, when she would be in good condition again. Average 
temperature, 95°. 

July 30, 1884. — Light northeast breeze with clear, warm weather throughout the day. This 
morning we discovered that during the night a long seam in the stem of the boat had opened and 
I sent across tlie river for an Indian woman to repair it. This job would occupy some time, 
and as the boat needed a day's drying I resolved to seize the opportunity of visiting the Jade 
Mountain, which is about twelve miles distant from this place. Accordingly at 9 30 a. m. I started, 
accompanied by Andre and Natorak. The other Indians of our party refused to go, as they said 
that their shaman had declared the devil in the mountains would surely catch them if they went on 
any such excursion. Onr walk across to the mountains was attended by excessive fatigue. Our 
way lay across the soft, yielding tundra through lagoons, around lakes and dense thickets of 
tangled willows and cottonwood, aud long stretches of pine woods, where fallen trees caused 
us constantly to turn aside and travel by a circuitous rout e. At one moment exposed to the burning 
heat of the summer sun, aud the next floundering, plunging, and struggling waist deep in dark 
pools of stagnant water where the light of day never penetrates, we reached at last the banks of a 
roaring torrent which sweeps around the base of the Jade Mountain and separates it from a high 
rugged peak of the same range. The bed of the stream was filled with stones, and huge heaps of 
them had been piled ui> with humanlike intention by the ice. Andre and I began at once our 
search for the green stone, l)ut the heart of Natorak failed him here and he could not be induced 
to go any nearer to the supposed residence of his satanic majesty. We left him to make the 
camp fire and cook the supper, while we took our way further up stream. Large quantities of 
green stone were found in the bed of the stream and scattered along its banks. The whole 
mountain seems to be composed of it, and the sides of the cliffs are like polished glass, so smooth 
have they been made by pressure or friction. Following the course of the stream we collected a 
number of specimens of stone aggregating in weight about seventy-five or one hundred pounds and 
returned to the camp, when we divided our specimens into three packs convenient for carrying, 
and as it was by this time about 11 p. m., we drank a cui) of tea and lay down by the fire to suatch 
a few hours' sleep prior to our return. Average temperature, 90°. 



64 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

JuJij 31, 1884. — At 3.30 a. m., as the first faint gleams of light appeared in the sky, Andre 
awoke mo from a deep sleep and suggested that we start as soon as possible for our camp on the 
river before the heat of the day set ia. Natorak had already made some tea and baked some bread 
on a stick, and after partaking of this limited refreshment we started on our return. The air was 
cold at this time of day, and for this rea.son the mosquitoes did not trouble ns Tuucli. I fouiiil 
myself very stiff and sore after the walk of the day before, but this soon wore off and we started 
down the side of the mountain at a famous rate. Each of us had quite a load of stone, and 
in addition to tliis, Andre had the whole of the camp outfit dangling from his belt or strapped to 
his shoulders. Even with this tremendous load he frolicked around like a young colt turned to 
pasture, sometimes disappearing ashe followed the track of a beardown some mountain ravine and 
tlien buisting tlirough a thicket a mile away and rushing down towards us with the numerous 
articles of his pack dangling and clattering in the wind. His high spirits were infectious and 
I forgot my fatigue and walked along quite well for about five miles, when we reached the edge 
of a dense forest of pines and plung('d into its dismal recesses. Here we were beset by myriads 
of mosquitoes and sand-flies, which attacked us with a persistence and violence utterly beyond 
description. Sometimes in crossing a morass I would be compelled to steady myself by holding 
on to the limbs of a fallen tree. At such times the horrible pests would attack my face, neck, 
and head with venomous force which no pen can describe. After about two hours of this kind 
of work we emerged upon the open tundra, and a fresh breeze springing up we thiew ourselves 
down and buried our heads in the yielding moss and grass until the wind had blown the mos- 
quitoes away. I can not tell how much I suffered during this day. I oidy know that when we 
reached the river at 5 p. m. I was almost insensible from pain and exhaustion. Our boots were 
worn through, and Andre had to tie pieces of blanket around my feet to protect them. Despite 
this precaution they were cut and bruised and so much swollen that he had to cut the boots to get 
them off. When we reached the river I was informed that Lieutenant Stoney, U. S. N., had passed 
up and had left a note, kindly offering me any assistance he might be able to render our party. 
Finding myself too exhausted to go any further at present, I dispatched a note to Mr. ]\rcLenegan, 
requesting him to bring forward the launch with all possible speed. The shaman of the village 
oppositeourencami)ment volunteered to act as guide for the launch, and I sent him down with 
instructions to stand in the launch's bow and pointout the best channel for Mr. McLenegan. These 
arrangements having been completed, I turned in to sleep and did not awake until next day near 
noon. 

August 1, 1884. — We were at work all day making i)reparations for the arrival of the launcli 
and for an immediate start up the river. The skin boat had had two days' good drying and a 
thorough overhauling by the Indians of the village. The shaman, who had been opposc<l to our 
mountain trip, and whose influence had prevented others from helping us, now came forward and 
tendered his assistance to us. He promised to go back with us up the river and prevail upon the 
Indians to help ns. All the pay ho desired was a little something to eat and to be allowed the 
privilege of making the trip in the steam-launch. The water in the river was rapidly falling, and 
the current decreasing, so that everything seemed propitious for our expedition. We went up a 
slough of the river and rafted down some wood suitable for the launch to burn, and by night we 
had cut suflicieut to last her two days. At 10 p. m. the shaman was seen i)addling towards our 
camp at a rapid rate, and I felt sure something had gone wrong. He brought a note from Mr. 
McLenegan saying that the fireman had let the water run down in the boiler, and had burnt (he 
tubes, how seriously he could only tell after an examination, which lie would make immediately. 
I sent word down asking Mr. McLenegan to inform me at once of the extent of the damage, intend- 
ing to start right away in the skin boat and allow him to overtake me should the injury j)rove such 
as could be repaired. By this means we could cut wood at convenient distances, and thus avoid 
the necessity of stojiping the launch for this jjurpose. 

August 2, 1884. — All the morning we looked anxiously down the river for the ai)j)earance of 
the launch, but she did not come. Toward 12 o'clock we discovered a canoe about a mile off 



.^x. 






M,- 



i^-^K 



ayt^iji^itiL? 



"Milg<^ 




KOWAK RIVEH NATIVE. 



/ 







INUIAN kLbHAGtM. DANt^L HijUoL.) 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMEU GOllWIN. 65 

coming towards us at a rapid rate, aud in a short wLile our niesseuger of the night before handed 
me the following note Irom Mr. McLeaegan : 

" August 2, 1884. 
"Dear Cantwell: I worked all last night on the tubes, and have had to plug six of them. 
They are now eoni[)aratively tight, but it diminishes our draught so mueh that it is almost impossible 
to keep steam enough to overcome the current. I just took out two grate bars, which helps some- 
what, but at this rate I doubt whether we will be able to reach you today. As near as I can learn 
from the boy your boat is not disabled, and if such is the case, can't you meet us 'I This will ruin 
the boiler completely aud cut off means of reaching the coast if I try her much more; but in obe- 
dience to orders I will keep on as fast as possible, or until something else turns up. Awaiting 
some instructions, 1 am, 

" Yours, etc., " S. B. McLenegan." 

lu answer to this dispatch I immediately sent word to Mr. McLenegan to stop and await our 
airival. We packed the skin boat ami soon after 12 o'clock started down the river with four 
Indians aud myself paddling. At about 3 p. ni. we arrived at the place where Mr. McLenegan had 
stopi)ed the launch, aud I had a consultation with him as to my plans for gaining the head of the 
liver. So far as the launch was concerned I found she was scarcely in condition to go doicn stream, 
and it would be useless waste of time to attempt to make her stem the current. I saw with alarm 
the rapidly falling river, and knowing the many shoal places and rapids below our present position, 
I considered it best to make our way back to the mouth of the river while we yet had time enough 
to do so in safety. After dinner we started down stream, but made very poor headway, as the 
steam, although allowed to run up to sixty pounds, would drop almost immediately to twenty-five 
pounds when the engine was started. Finding after repeated experiments that the steam would 
be of no service to us we gave it up and got out the oars and tried to keep her in mid-channel by 
this means. This was not always possible aud we often grounded on sand-bars and had hard work 
to get her off. At midnight we reached the Indian village where I had left the launch, aud as 
none of us had had a moment's sleep for forty-eight hours we turned in as best we might, wet and 
hungry, but too tired to care for anything but rest and sleep. 

Augusts, 1884. — We si)ent the day in overhauling and restowing everything. Mr. McLenegan 
with Lewis was at work all day, aud at night he reported that he had given the tubes a thorough 
examination and was satisfied they would not work with wood as fuel. Our only hope for steam 
was, iu his opinion, to get coal, and try that. A bear was killed and brought to the outskirts of 
the village to day, aud the whole population prepared for a feast to which we were invited, and 
which we enjoyed most heartily, as we were sadly in want of meat. The appetites of tliese 
Indians are something marvelous, and when I spoke to Andre about it, he told me that the Indians 
of the Tannenah region far surpassed these in ability to eat large quantities of food at one time. 
He instanced the case of an acquaintance who had eaten the entire carcass of a deer at one sitting. 
It may, however, be stated that this gastronomical feat was accomplished only after au entire 
night's steady application. My personal observation of these natives leads me to believe that 
while it is true that they can consume large quantities of food when it is iilentiful, they are also 
capable of going without food for much longer periods than the average white man. I made some 
very good astronomical observations, as the suu was out the greater portion of the day. During 
the afternoon Andre cooked a quantity of bread so that we might not be delayed unnecessarily on 
our way down, i intend to make the trip as quickly as possible in order to reach Selawik Lake 
iu time to explore it. 

Arigust i, 1884.— A heavy rain-storm set in about 3 o'clock this morning, aud it was not until 
8 a. m. that we could remove our provisions to the boats aud make a start. We now settled 
ourselves steadily to the oars, knowing that the 225 miles of river before us must be traversed in 
that way. Although the launch had a sail, it was uot of much use to us iu the river on account 
of its tortuous course. The natives had so thoroughly gorged themselves the day before that 
fishing was suspended for the time being, and wo could not procure any fresh fish to take with 
us. The journey down stream was found very dangerous on account of the great number of 
H. Mis. 002 5 



66 tJKlJlSE OF THE STEAMEli CORWIN. 

sboals in the stream in this locality. We got on tlicni iii;iuy times during the day, and the launch 
was only saved from cap.sizinj,' or runniii;^; out too fai- lor ns to get her alioat by all hands plunging 
overboard and bearing lier bodily against the current into deep water. At -1 i>. ni. we ran the 
rapids above the village visited July 18. llere we ceased pulling and allowed her to drift with 
the current, and it was really alarming to see with wh;it velocity we were whirled along past the 
crumbling banks and over the rocky shoals. In ten minutes, however, we were through this bad 
place and took to our oars with considerably more heart and spirit, feeling that the prospect of 
getting the launch back to the coast was much improved. The wind was ahead all the afternoon, 
and seemed to draw ahead in every reach. It serve<l, however, to keep us comi)aratively free 
from mosquitoes, for which we were duly thankful. At 7.;}() )). m. we pitched our camp ou the 
side of a rocky caiion about six miles from the Indian village visited July IS, and upon reckoning 
up the distance, I found we liad gone nearly fifty miles this day, and as the oars were of little use 
except to keep the launch in mid-c^lianiiel, some idea of the force of the current can be obtained. 
Temperature, 1)0°. 

August 5, 1S84. — The day dawned clear and continued so throughout. At 7.30 a. m. we got 
under way and ])roceede(l down the river, and at 9..'50 a. m. arri\ed otf the second village passed 
in coming up, but did not stop, as 1 was anxious to reach the other village before noon in order to 
correct some observations previously made there. We found the current very strong, and were 
obliged to go around an island by a way we did not discover in passing uj), in order to avoid a 
shoal place in the larger part of the river. At 11.30 a. m. we arrived at the lirst village, and I got 
several observations for latitude, longitude, variation, etc. We obtained a good supply of fresh 
fish and salted them down for future use. The Indians had caught an unusually large quantity 
of fish at this \ illage, and the racks on the beach were covered with drying salmon. At 1 p. m. 
we again started on our way, and at 2 p. m. arrived at the rapids above the coal mountain. The 
water had fallen some ten feet since we passed up, and I now discovered that the bed of the river 
was tilled with many gravel shoals, and that from the east bank many ugly rocks projected into 
the channel. In seeking to avoid these latter the launch ran hard on to one of the shoals and we 
had diflicnlt work getting her oil'. Fortunately a fresh breeze 8i)rung up ahead just at this time, 
and we hoisted our sail, and by tacking her through the narrow sloughs managed to shoot the 
rapids without further accident. We now emerged into the still part of the rai)ids mentioned 
before, and found very little current to aid us for about ten miles. I determined to ruu all night, 
as there are no shoals in this part of the river. During the afternoon we arrived at the place 
where we had cached the skiff, and stoppe<l long enough to get a cup of tea and take her in tow. 
As night came on the river became strangely silent, and as we sped quietly past the dark banks 
there was uo sound to show that we were moving. Only the murmuring of the ra^jidly flowing 
current as it raced over the limbs of some tree which had fallen into the water, or the sudden 
noise of a portion of the higii hank breaking away and tumbling into the stream, broke the solemn 
stillness. The darkness increased, and a li;;ht mist settled upon the river as the hours wore on, 
and I would have stopped about midnight had not the moon suddenly appeared above the high 
wooded shores and lloodt'd the river with its silvery light. At 12 o'clock we passed the mouth of 
the Sheeleclictok and discovered a large shoal in the river at this place. Wo had arranged to pass 
the night in watches, but the mosquitoes were so bad that it was impossible to sleep, and so we 
sat up all night smoking and fighting these pests. Average temiierature, 95°. 

August 6, 1884. — At 2 a. m. we arrived at Highland Encampment, and stopped long enough 
to take on board some stones we had collected as specimens on our way up. Just below this 
place the river widens to 1.100 yards, and the current decreases somewhat. About 4 a. m. a light 
breeze sprang up, and we went along a little faster than the current until 5.30 a. m., when we 
arrived at some high bluff's in a bend of the river a short distance above Lost Anchor Encani])- 
ment. Here we stopped for breakfast, and I got some sights for longitude and latitude. Alter 
getting my noon observation we started again down stream, making good time, as we were 
assisted by a light breeze. The banks in this locality an^ perpendicular masses of black mud and 
decaying vegetable matter, broken into many irregularities by the action of the current. At 9 
a. m. we arrived at Glacier Bend, and I made several sketrhes of this rcmarkabhi formation. We 
shot a beautiful specimen of gull common to this region as it fluttered along the face of the 




ESKIMO GRAVE. HOTHAM INLET. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER GOliWlN. 67 

bluff, and upou hindiii};; to in-ucuiio our prize we found the soil to be composed of an exceedinf.'ly 
fine dust, which had been fashioned into many curious designs by the i)ercolation of water from 
the meltinfv ice above. The many fantastic shapes seen here reminded me of the Pictured Rocks 
of Lake Superior. At midnight we reached our camp where we liad left the coal, and as Mr. 
McLenegan wished to overhaul the boiler before starting fires with coal I decided to remain here 
until morning. 

August 7, 18*4. — At 7 a. m. we resumed our journey, and at 10 o'clock reached the settlement 
which Lieutenant Stouey named Gilderville. Here wo commenced steaming, as there was very 
little if any current to aid us. The banks of the river are low and covered with a dense growth 
of swamp trees and rank grass, with very little timber, and this entirely disappears as we 
ai)proach the delta. Towards 7 o'clock we found ourselves ten or fifteen miles from the mouth of 
the river, and, choosing a passage which we had not previously seen, i)assed on toward the inlet, 
finding from two to tiiree fathoms of water in the river; but the mouth was closed by an extensive 
shoal, and we could not lind more than three feet over it. Our coal lasted to this point, and by 
mixing a little wood with it we managed to keep enough steam to cross the bay and reach the 
o|)posite shore, where we camped. Observed the schooner Ounalaska lying at anchor about eight 
miles to the westward. 

August 8, 18S4. — We were at work all day in numerous small jobs about the launch and skin 
boat, preparatorj' to a trip to Selawik Lake, which I intend to visit after making a rough survey 
of the mouths of the Kowak. Our camp was situated at the base of some bluffs, and from their 
tops we had a good view of the delta opposite. The low, flat country extends as far as the eye 
can reach to the northeast, and is covered with a thick growth of low willow trees and rank grass. 
Many lakes and lagoons could be seen, and the different passages from the main river to the inlet 
seemed almost countless. The bay is almost two and a half miles wide at this place, but it grows 
wider to the westward, and in some places is eight miles across. 

August 9, 18S4. — During the day we had a brisk wind from the westward, and I employed the 
time in running along the western shore of the bay, sounding and exploring the many mouths of 
the Kowak. The main stream empties into the bay just at the entrance of Selawik Lake, which is 
nothing more than an extension of Hotham Inlet. In fact it is hard to determine where the inlet 
ends and the lake begins on the north side, but on the opposite side the 'entrance to the lake is 
well marked by a sand spit, which projects far out from the laud and divides the two bodies of 
water very jdainly. At night we ran across to this spit, and, seeking a sheltered spot, camped. 
A convenient little harbor here determined me to leave the launch at this place and to make the 
trip in the skin boat, as I was informed that much of the upper portion of Selawik Lake was shoal. 

August 10, 1884. — At G o'clock I started up the lake accompanied by Andre and Natorak. We 
had a fresh wind from the westward and the light skin boat flew over the sparkling waves like a 
race-horse. In an hour's time we reached the beach at the foot of a high bluff visible from the 
camp, and I established a station here and erected a beacon. After taking bearings of some 
prominent peaks and points around the end of the lake I proceeded along the south shore, finding 
from two to three fathoms of water with gradually shoaling water to the beach. The country is 
the usual high rolling tundra land of the lower part of the bay and forms a bluff bank to the lake. 
Along the front of the bank it is covered with a thick growth of willow and birch, except where 
the ice and snow have slip|)ed down from the heights, leaving a scarred and rugged track behind. 
A narrow strip of beach composed of white sand and gravel extends for miles along the eastern 
side of the lake, and at intervals long spits extend far out from the shore, so that many little bays 
are formed. We made several stops during the day in order that I might get observations and 
bearings. At each stop Andre and Natorak erected beacons of ilrift-wood found on the beach, to 
assist me in the work of surveying. Towards 5 p. m. we reached a part of the lake where the 
shore trends to the northwest, and here we found the water very shoal and the shores low and 
swampy. Two hundred yards from the beach a bar extended to the northwest parallel to the 
shore and a heavy sea was running on it. Our light boat would not beat to windward, so I 
determined to land here and wait until the wind changed, or the sea should go down sufficiently 
for us to i)addle. We got over the bar comparatively dry and camped on the marsh. The place 
was alive with geese and ducks, and Andre killed enough in a very short while to last us a week. 



68 . CItUlSE OF TUE STEAMER OORWIN, 

We slept under the boat, and as the wind continued blowing all night wo were not troubled 
with mosquitoes. Made S.'?.^ miles during the day. 

August 11, ISSl. — This morning the wind liad shifted to the southwest and was blowing a gale 
ou shore. We could not get away until 10.30 a. m., but once over the bar and in deep water we 
sped before the wind at a famous rate. The shores continued li;w and marshy, and at 12 o'clock 
I observed a small river running in from the eastward. Upon inquiry I learned that a large lake 
could be reached by going up this river, and as I knew no such lake was ou the charts of this 
country 1 resolved to explore it. We entered the river and found it to be about seventy-live yards 
wide, and with two to three fathoms of water. At 2 p. m. we reached a beautiful little lake about 
five miles in diameter and almost entirely surrounded by mountains. Dashing across this lovely 
little sheet of water we entered a narrow creek which tlows in on the opposite side, and soon after 
stopped for dinner at the hut of an Indian living ou the banks of a lagoon near by. He and his 
family were gre.itly sur[)rised to see a white man here, but they treated us very Iiospitably by 
giving us some Iresh ti.sh and delicious salmon berries, which grew in great abundance on the 
tundra adjacent to the lake. At 2 p. m. we left, after giving our host some tobacco, and in an 
hour's time emerged on the large lake of which we were in search. The Indians call it Emogarik- 
choit, or Little Sea, and the river wliich connects it with Selawik Lake, Kiactuk, or Fox liiver. 
The mountains which are visible from Selawik Lake border tlie eastern side of this lake, and 
extend around about tlireequarters of its circumference, and then gradually recede, and the shores 
of the lake.trendir)g to tiu; northward gradually grow lower and lower until at last there is nothing 
left but a low marsh, whi(;h is no doubt frequently submerged. I found the soundings quite 
regular, there being about one fathom all over except around a low marshy island lying in the 
southeast part of the lake. Here there was scarcely water enough in some places to float our boat. 
At 7. .'JO p. m. we camped on the marsh at the head of the lake, but the shore was composed of a 
soft black deposit of a silt-like character, of the consistency of mush, and we were compelled to 
drag the boat through this for a quarter of a mile before we could find a place high enough to 
make a camp ui)on. In a short while Natorak had a fire blazing and Andre had prepared our 
supper. We made 43 miles this day. Average temperature, 90°. 

August 12, 1SS4. — The wind blew strong on shore all day and we could not get away from this 
place. To add to our discomfort the water gradually overflowed the low land and soon saturated 
the hummock of land on wliich our camp was made so that we were com))elled to " lay on our oars" 
iu a literal as well as a metaphorical sense. I spent the daj' in working ou the track of a rough 
chart which I had been making as we jiroceedcd, and in teaching Andre to write. I wanted 
Natorak also to learn, but he evidently did not relish the idea of exchanging his blissful ignorance 
for a more enlightened state of mind, and my eftbrts in this direction were not successful to any 
appreciable extent. I observed a slight rise and fall of the tide to day and am inclined to think 
there is a range of about six inches on the average, but this will vary greatly according to the 
force and direction of the wind. Average temperature, 95°. 

Aiigunt 13, lS84.^The day commenced with a strong southwest wind, which moderated sulU- 
ciently by 5 a. m. to allow us to launch our boat and proceed. We at first attempted to sail, but 
the wind drew right on the beach, and so I put Andre and Natorak on the shore and they towed 
the boat until we could lay our course under sail. At noon we stopjied on the north side of the 
lake for our mid-day meal and observation. At 1 p. ni. we got away again after having dined 
sumptuously on roast duck and bread bakiul on a stick. The wind being now fair we sped away 
along the edge of the lake until 5 p. m , when I observed a deep indentation on the shore, and 
upon inquiry learned that a small stream connected the lake at this point with Selawik River about 
twenty-five miles from its mouth. Finding that two days would suffice to reach Selawik Lake by 
this route, I turned tlie boat's head in this direction. After an hour's run we reached the farthest 
side of the little bay, which we found very shoal and the bottom covered with grass. The place 
seemed alive with fish, and shoals of them jilayed around and under our boat without the slightest 
evidence of fear. A blow of the paddle upon the water would cause a terrible commotion for a 
moment, but thej^ seemed to enjoy the sport as much as we did. The eiitrance to the river, which 
is called the Eegyak or Throat River, is coii(!ealed and could be easily passed by one unac(piainted 
with the country. Natorak piloted us into it, however, aud we found ourselves between banks 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 69 

densely clothed with the characteristic willow trees and f^rass of tlie lowlands hereabout. A 
slight current favored us, and with a smart breeze which followed the course of the river we rushed 
along at the rate of seven knots. No shoals were seen, and the depth of the water was from three 
to live fathoms. In common with all tiiese livers the course of the Eegyak is tortuous, and its 
shores afford but little scope for scenic description. At about 8 o'clock ]>. m. we arrived at au 
Indian settlement situated at the junction of the main stream with a smaller one flowing off to 
the left, and here pitched our camp, having made 35.2 miles during the day. The Indians were 
exceedingly kind and anxious to help us. They rushed into the water waist deep and hauled the 
boat up with all on board high and dry amidst great excitement, and after building a fire and 
getting enough wood to last us through tlie night, sat down around lis and smiled on us with great 
good humor. I learned to day that tlie natives of this region in summer time travel in their skin 
boats from the headwaters of the Selawik through a small stream into the Kuryukuk and into 
tlie Yukon with one short portage, and it is probably by this route that Lieutenant Zagoskin, of 
tlie Russian navy, attempted to make a passage about forty-four years ago. This oflticer reached 
the head of the Selawik River, but for some reason did not succeed in making the portage. 

August 14, 1884. — At 7 30 we bade farewell to our kind Indian friends and proceeded on our 
voyage. Seven miles now brought us to the junction of the Eegyak with the Selawik River. 
Here we were confronted with a head-wind, compelling us to take to the oars. The banks of the 
Selawik vary but little from those of the Kowak in character, with the exception that the under- 
growth is heavier. The width of the river varies from six hundred to a thousand yards, and in 
some Tihices it expands into bays a mile wide. From four to six fathoms of water were found in 
the channel. From the mouth of the Eegyak the Selawik trends in a northwesterly direction 
about six miles and then to the south and west to the lake. Many small lakes and lagoons were 
observed near the river, and entering one of these 1 discovered an extensive sheet of water lying 
at the foot of the mountains, about six miles from the river. At 4 p. m. we emerged into a large 
bay filled with many islands, and the glistening waters of Selawik Lake could be seen about four 
miles ahead. We crossed the bay and at 5.30 p. m. reached the sand-spit forming the north side 
of the entrance to the lake. Here we camped, as there was too much sea in the lake for us to go 
farther. The wind was strong from the southwest all day and we made 25.7 miles. Average 
temperature, 85°. 

A ugust 15, 1884. — This morning the wind had gone down and the sea in the lake was decreasing, 
so that we got away shortly after I took my noon observation. We kept close along the north 
shore, and I put Andre and Natorak on the beach with a tow-line. The beach is like that on the 
other side of the lake, composed of sand and gravel, and the shores are generally high, with 
occasional steep blufts of sand and clay. At a point about one-half the distance from the mouth 
of the Selawik River to the southern entrance to the lake a river runs in from the mountains which 
separate the Kowak and Selawik Rivers. Here the country is low and marshy, similar to the 
Kowak delta. Berries grow in great abundance along the sides of the bluffs and on the 'evel 
tundra land, and game is exceedingly plentiful. I shot during the afternoon eight ptarmigan, one 
goose, a loon, and an Arctic hare, and could have shot many more of each of the birds mentioned 
had we needed them. At 7.30 we stopped for supper, but did not camp as there were signs of a 
shift of the wind to the northeast during the night and I was anxious to reach the launch as soon 
as i)03sible. At 10 p. m. the wind came fair and we started. Soon we got from beneath the high 
bluffs and the wind caught our little sail, sending us spinning over the sparkling waters of the 
lake and on toward the launch, some twenty miles away. The soft rays of the moon bathed lake, 
jilain, and distant mountains in a flood of silvery light, and the air was filled with sweet perfume 
wafted to us from the rich tundra plains. At intervals the long mournful note of the loon, sound- 
ing strangely like the sobbing of a child, or the low discordant cry of the crane, startled us in our 
reveries. As we receded from the laud these sounds were lost and only the rushing of the water 
as it was parted at the bows was heard. At 12 o'clock I relinquished the helm to Andre and 
rolled up in my blankets for a sleep. Distance made during the day, .33.5 miles. 

August 16, 1884. — At 3.15 a. m. we arrived at our camp at the entrance of the lake and found 
all hands well, but tired of their week's idleness, and anxious to get away. At 10 a. m. the wind 
increased so much that I moved the boats around on the other side of the spit, and found a 



70 CIIUISE OF THE STKAMKU COKWIN. 

coinfortabU' bertli for tliein safe from the sea, wliicli now thuiiilercd on tlio oi)po.site or lake side of 
the point. The niorninj? was s[)ent in prc'iiaration for our voyaye down Uotham Inlet. I got 
observations and bearings of prominent points in the neighborhood to assist me in the preparation 
of a chart, and swung tlic latincli to find the error of the eotiipass. At 4 p. ni., everything being 
in readiness, we got under way and started down the bay having a twoaiid-a-lialf-k not current 
to assist us. Toward G o'clock a light breeze from the eastward sprang up and we increased our 
speed to four knots i)er hour. Tlie skin boat, with Andre and Xatorak as captain and crew, kept 
steadily ahead of us. At 8 [). m. we stopped for supi)er on the e;ist side vl' the bay, and Andre 
started a fire on the edge of a huge pile of drift wood which burned like tinder, and a regular 
conflagration ensued. The flames rushed upward with a mighty roar a distance of thirty feet, 
and Uw bushes in the vicinity were shrivelled with the heat. When Andre announced supper I 
could not help being reminded of the fabled mountain in labor, for a little muddy coff'ee and burnt 
flour were all his tremendous fire ])roduced. We started again a 9 o'clock, following the west 
shore down, and looking for the mou'h of a river which flows into the inlet from a small lake in 
the interior of (Ihoris Peninsula, intending to make a harbor there for the night, but owing to 
the darkness we i)asscd without discovering it, and at 12 o'clock we camjied on the beach just 
where it begins to make to the westward, having gone 33.5 miles since morning. 

August 17, ISS-i. — The day was s|)ent in laying off a base-lineon the beach two miles in length 
for the purpose of fixing the position of tlie principal mouths of the river and prominent points 
of the bay visible from this place. During the afternoon the wind, which had been light during 
the forenoon, increased to a fresh breeze, and a heavy sea began rolling in on the beach. I feared 
the launch would drag her stone anchor and go ashore during the night, and at.') o'clock I took 
Wilbur, and we started to look for the river about eight miles up the iidet in order to get a safe 
place to lie. We discovered the entrance at about G p. m., but in attempting to run in got aground 
on a shoal which is formed by the current and had hard work getting her oil' without help. We 
finally succeeded in getting her into deep water and made a tack to clear the shoal, and then made 
another attempt. The wind steadily increased, and we did not dare run any risks, so that dark- 
ness overtook us before we could gain the refuge of the river, and we were compelled to anciior 
under the lee of the shoal, where we lay comparatively sheltered from the sea. The wind blew so 
strong, however, that Wilbur and I stood " watchand-watch " through the night. 

August 18, 1884. — At 4 a. m. Wilbur and I got the launch under way and stood back toward 
our camp, arriving there at 8.30 a. m. After having breakfast, we broke camp and stood to the 
westward along the shore, making but slow headway, as the wind now died away, leaving the sur- 
face of the bay as smooth as glass. We stopped for a rest at noon, as we had been jjulling at the 
oars without ceasing since morning. After getting a cup of tea we started again, and as a light 
northwest wind had sprung up, we stood across the bay towards the delta of the Kowak, sounding, 
constantly. At 6.30 we arrived opposite the mouth of the river which we entered iu going up and 
came to near by for sui)per. A boatload of Indians came up to our camp from below, and from 
them I learned that the Concin was expected to return toCajte Blossom in a day or two, as she had 
been seen at Chamisso Island about the 16th instant. At 9 o'clock a moderate breeze sprang uj) 
from the northward, and we got under way to make the most of it; shaped course west-southwest, 
which just clears a long point projecting into the bay from the south shore, and arranged the party 
in watches for the night. At 12 changed course to northwest by north. Distance made during 
the day, thirty-seven miles. Average temperature, 85°. 

August 19, 1884. — After 12 o'clock the weather clouded over and the wind increased to a fresh 
breeze. At 2 a. m. rounded a point of land projecting into the bay from Ohoris Peninsula, and 
shaped our course for Eucami)ment No. 2, where we had cached some pemmican and potatoes. 
At daybreak the wind died away entirely, and we took to our oars. Arrived at our old camp at 
10.30, and found our cache undisturbed; but the two cans of desiccated jiotatoes were found upon 
examination to be unfit for use, and I decided not to take them. As it was dead calm on the bay, 
I delayed here to allow all hands a chance to get a little sleep. At 2 a. m. a light, favorable breeze 
sprang up, and we got under way and stood toward the entrance to the inlet. At 4 a. m. we pas.sed 
the fifteenth mouth of the Kowak, which flows into Ilotham Inlet nearly opjiosite the entrance. 
Toward 8 o'clock we headed iu for some high bluffs forming the south side of the bay, and discov- 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COitW IN. 71 

ered an exteusive shoal making out intd the iulet Iroui this jjoiiit. Coiuiimnicated with jjarty of 
Indians, who informed us that the Corwin had been at Cape Blossom, but had left for Point Hope 
this morning. The wind continued light and bafiiiug all night, and we made very little headway. 
Distance made during the day, thirty-eight miles. Average temperature, 85°. 

August 20, 1884. — The light wind continued until -l a. m., when it shifted to the northwest and 
commenced blowing hard. Soon we rounded the bluff headland of Hotham Inlet and stood for the 
site of our first encampment. The Indians of the trading village who had witnessed our approach 
were gathered on the beach to receive us, and when we hinded ami began pitching our camp they 
were exceedingly troublesome in a harmless way, examining everything brought on shore, trying 
the axes, lifting the boxes, opening everything that could be opened, and, in general, making 
themselves excessively familiar. We allowed them to do pretty much as they pleased, as it would 
have been folly to resist them, and we got along very well until breakfast. I thought we would 
have some rest then at least, and we retired to our tent and closed the flap before beginning to 
eat. This maneuver nonplused them for a momeftt, but soon a dirty-faced rascal thrust his head 
through the opening and surveyed us with a grin of delight. The liap was hauled over rather 
roughly by one of our party, and the Indian retired precipitately. We had begun to imagine that 
question settled when a sudden rush was heard, and the whole front of the tent was thrust aside 
by a dozen natives, who crowded in and sat down around us, all in the best of spirits seemingly, 
and, beyond this determination to see us eat, quite untlemonstrative. Andre advised me to refrain 
from any show of impatience, as the curiosity of the natives would soon become satisfied and they 
would leave us. When we proposed to retire, I was gratified to see a general move on the part of 
the Indians to leave us to ourselves, and soon not one could be seen within a mile of the camp. 
We had tine weather to-day, and 1 had the launch scrubbed and all bidding aired. Distance made, 
ten miles. Average temperature, 85°. 

August 21, 1884. — Today I found some coal which bad been sent on shore from the Corwin, 
together with a letter from Captain Healy directing me to ascertain particulars as to the numbers 
of the Indians who annually make this spot a rendezvous for trade, and to examine the shoal lying 
off the inlet with a view of discovering a channel to the sea. I visited the village after dinner and 
counted nearly six hundred natives. 1 was informed tiiat as many had gone back to their homes. 

From the middle of July to the latter part of August the natives of the Noitoc, Kowak, and 
Selawick Rivers meet those from Cape Prince of Wales, Diomedes, and Point Hope for the purpose 
of trade. The beginning of the season is celebrated by dancing, feasting, and storj'-telling, which 
occupy one day, and after that is accomplished the real business of the occasion is prosecuted with 
sur])rising tact and ability. In this community of uncivilized beings the same methods of business 
are adopted whereby prices and values are made to vary in proportion to the demand as are used 
by their more enlightened brothers in the civilized world. Rifles are always in demand, and next 
to whisky obtain the readiest sale. The chief of the Prince of Wales Eskimos is probably the 
most i)owerful magnate of this region, owing no doubt to the fact that his settlement is a convenient 
stopping place for vessels having these articles of contraband trade on board. His method of 
becoming rich is simple and efl'ective. Upon the opening of business he offers the Indians whisky 
in exchange for rifles, and will not trade for anything else, and is generally successful in obtaining 
a "corner" in rifles in this way. I was informed that it was not an unusual thing for an Indian 
to sell and buy his litte twice or three times in this way during one season, or as long as the whisky 
lasted. It is gratifying to learn that whisky as an article of commerce is becoming scarcer every 
year. It is exceedingly difficult to obtain any reliable information as regards the number or amount 
of anything. Generally speaking, the native system of notation is limited to the fingers and toes, . 
and any very large number is expressed by a handful of sand. The village consists of a straggling 
line of tents along the beach. Some were composed of a number of i)oles arranged in a conical 
fashion and covered with deerskins ; others of blue, white, or red drilling were seen, and one more 
gaudy than the rest was covered with the remnants of a cheap bed-quilt, on which was printed in 
glaring colors the picture of a man sitting up in bed with a candle in one hand and a fifteen puzzle 
in the other. The tents of the "omaliks" are generally more imposing affairs, made in the United 
States and brought here by the traders. The chief of the Kotzebuc Sound Eskimos, who took a 
violent fancy to me, acted as my guide through the village, and upon arriving at his tent invited 



72 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

me inside. Upon entering: we sat down on the soft skins covering the ground, ami lighting onr 
pipes smoked and smiled at each otlier with great comi)hiceacy. I did not feel quite so contented, 
however, when his wife phiced before us a dish of white whale blubber for our refreshment. I 
chose a delicate looking morsel and put it in my mouth. It tasted like solidified codfish oil might 
taste, and I declined any more, giving as my excuse a late and hearty dinner. Wc were followed 
through the village by great crowds of men, women, children, and dogs, who kept np a continual 
howling and hustled each other about in great good humor. Huge bear, wolf, and deer skins were 
thrown on the ground for me to walk over, and when I returned to my camp the little boys ran 
ahead and picked berries for me to eat. 

Anguxt 22, 18S4. — The excitement resulting from onr arrival had evidently died out this 
morning, for the Indians did not attend in such largo numbers as yesterday. After breakfost I 
took the launch, and with Wilbur, Andre, and a native who lives here, went out to the bar 
searching for the channel across the shoals. After sailing backwards and forwards for about five 
hours I could not discover any deeper channel than one fathom across the bar. There are many 
small sloughs leading from the deep water inside, but all those I examined ended in shoal water 
before reaching the sea. It is probable that the channel is subject to many changes from the 
effects of ice and wind. Inside the bar a deep channel, with from four to eight fathoms, runs along 
close to the beach north by west to the point of land south of the village, thence north-northwest 
to a remarkable bluff Iieadland, forming the right side of the entrance to llotham Inlet. There 
is no channel into Uotham Inlet on the north side. There is good water along the north side as 
far as the mouth of the Noitoc, but here it ends, and a large shoiil ])revents boats from passing 
through the inlet by this route. When we returned to our camj) I learned that ten large boats 
had arrived from Cape Prince of Wales and two from Point Hope. I visited the village after 
dinner, and found the whole place in an uproar of excitement. Tents were being pitched, boats 
hauled out and converted into houses, skins and trade goods thrown together in large piles, and 
above all the noise and bustle the howling of three or four hundred dogs tended to increase the 
Babel-like confusion. When I arrived there was a momentary lull in the proceedings. Many of 
the natives had seen me on the Corioin and recognized me now. They crowded around me, and 
were evidently anxious to know the cause of my presence. Upon being assured that I did not 
come with any malign intentions they welcomed me with every evidence of joy, and kept me 
hemmed in until one or two drunken Eskimos had been hustled out of sight, and then resumed 
their preparations for trade, allowing me to go wherever I pleased. I was followed by a mob 
of boys, who showed the same propensity for mischief as the small white boy does on similar 
occasions. After taking a rapid census of the population, which I estimated at about fourteen 
hundred, I returned to our camp. 

Avgust 23, 1^81. — Soon after breakfast this morning an Indian ran across the fields and 
informed us that the natives of the diflerent settlements were about to celebrate the arrival of 
the Cape Prince of Wales chief by having a dance, and wanted me to be i)resent. I immediately 
started with Andre, and in a short while the tent of the Kotzebue Sound chief was reached. After 
partaking rather gingerly of some seal meat which he ofiered us we started together for the 
scene of the dance. Upon a level plot of ground a short distance from the village about twelve 
hundred natives were gathered, and the sound of the drums and the howling chant of the singers 
announced the fact that the ball had opened. On our ap])roach the crowd around the dancers 
fell back and allowed us to pass through to a spot favorable for observation. Within the circle 
some half dozen Indians, dressed in fancifully-trimmed i)arkas and wearing liighly-ornanieuted 
gloves and boots, were going through the most astonishing contortions, sometimes leaping high 
into the air and doubling themselves n\) with head, hands, and feet all in a bunch, or standing in 
one place, swaying to and fro, and making spasmodic gestures, with their hands clinched and 
necks stitt'ened to a rigidity that was appalling. W^ith horrible grimaces they glared around at 
the crowd, in every action keeping time with the musicians, who were ranged in a line behind 
them. The musicians kept uj) a continual beating on their drums, accompanied by a chanting 
song, the words of which were indistinguishable. I was informed tliat on such occasions tlie 
words of the song are extemi)oraneous, generally relating to the business for which they are 
gathered together, but that, when wrods or ideas fail them, they get along fully as well by repeat- 




ESKIMO WOMAN, SHOWING LABRET OR LIP ORNAMENT. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 73 

ing over and over the " Hnng-Hi-Huug-A-Hung-A-A-A," which seems to contain all the elements 
necessary to arouse the dancers to a pitch of frenzy. After the dancers fioui the different settle- 
ments had performed a general dance took place in which the women joined, and the whole 
assemblage, as if to do honor to the fair sex, joined in the chorus. Several drunken natives forced 
themselves through tlie crowd and ran wildly around the open space, but they were speedily 
ejected. As the dance proceeded the number of drunken men increased so much that our friend, 
the chief, advised ns to leave, which we did, not, however, before a brawny, half-naked Eskimo 
from Point Hope had burst through the crowd and, in tiie ardor of his affection, flung himself on 
me and buried iiis bushy head on my breast, at the same time imploring me to give him some 
whisky. When he wns told that I had no whisky, but would destroy all there was in the village 
if he did not behave, he set np a furious yell and Hung himself upon the ground, howling and 
tearing up the grass like a wild animal. We escaped from the crowd and regained our camp 
without further adventure, but long after darkness had obscured the view in all other directions 
tlie glare from a hundred fires lighted np the plain in the vicinity of the village, and the dark 
forms of the natives could be seen flitting to and fro, and their howls and shouts of bacchanalian 
laughter came floating down to us on the wind, showing that the orgy was still at its height. 

Aupust 24, 1SS4.— The d;iy began with a moderate breeze from the northwest, and at noon 
shifted to the northward and commenced blowing hard. We shifted the anchorage of the launch 
to a more sheltered spot and got out both stone anchors. At sunset the wind had increased to a 
moderate gale, and the sea had risen so much that I feared the launch would either drag her 
anchors and go on the beach, or be swamped. We placed the coal on board today and that set 
her so much by the head that she was unmangeable under sail. Wilbur and I stayed by all niglit, 
and at 12 o'clock the seas were making clean breaches over her and we were kept busy bailing 
until morning. 

August 25, 1884. — At daylight the gale moderated somewhat, and at 7 a. m. I got ashore from 
the launch and examined the entrance to a lagoon about one mile to the eastward of ns and found 
a narrow channel leading to a safe harbor for the launch. At 8.30 we put two reefs in the launch's 
sail, and having shifted all the coal aft, got under way and stood for the entrance to the lagoon. 
The wind was now blowing a gale from the northward, and a heavy chop-sea was running in the 
sound. Fortunately for us the launch did not touch bottom in the narrow channel, and at 9 o'clock 
we came to anchor in a lagoon which extends nearly across to Cape Blossom. During the after- 
noon we brought the tent and camp outfit to this harbor, and at night I was thankful we had so 
snug a place to lie, as the wind increased to a gale, and the sea in the sound became so high that 
the launch would not have lived through it. Natorak brought me a present of tea from the chief 
of the Selawik Indians, who also desired that I should pay him a visit. Accordingly I went over 
to the village and called on the old man. He was very glad to see me, and after making me a 
present of a bear-skin asked me to take supper with him. I accepted, and in a short while we sat 
down to a repast consisting of seal meat, berries and oil, and flour paste, brought to a close by a 
cup of tea brewed for my especial benefit in an old tomato can. 

August 26, 1884. — The wind shifted to the eastward during the night, and this morning the 
water had fallen some five feet, leaving the launch aground on the soft muddy bottom. The 
channel leading from the inlet to the sea is greatly affected by the wind, and a single gale will so 
alter its position as to make it impossible to place any dependence on previous soundings. During 
the day I visited the village for the purpose of locating the channel while the water was low. 
From a high point of land the [)Osition of many shoals was located with the aid of the sextant, but 
as far as I could see there is no regularly defined channel leading to the sea. 

. August 27, 1884. — The weather continues clear, but is growing cold, and tliough we sleep in 
the tent we find it hard to keep warm during the night. I observed signs of frost on the leaves 
this morning, and the mud around the edges of the lagoons was partially frozen. The chief of 
the Selawiks took breakfast with me this morning, and after that ceremony was over he had a 
smoke and then stowed himself away in a corner and slept soundly until dinner was announced at 
5 p. m. We gave him some boiled fish and bread, and after dinner I negotiated with him for a bag 
of flour, as ours is nearly gone. The continued wet weather we had at the beginning of the trip 
spoiled our baking-powder, and we have bread now in its primitive state. Although nothing is 



74 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COUWIN. 

said by way of coiniilaiiit, 1 know every one is lookiiij; anxiously seaward a hundred times a day 
for tlie siglit of smoke wliicli will herald the Coricin's approach. The wind was light all day from 
the westward, and the water did not come in sufficiently to float the launch. 

August 28, 1884^.— Begau with a moderate west breeze and overcast, with light rain. At 5 a. 
m. observed the Coricin at anchor off Cape Krusenstern. At 9 a. ni. stood out of the river into 
Ivotzebue Sound. Found a rough chojisea in the bay. At 11. .30 sighted the Coricin's surf-boat 
heading for us and came to anchor. The breeze increased and the sea ro.se so much that we 
decided to return to the harbor and wait for better weather. Accordiugly, the surf-boat accom- 
panying us, we re-entere<l the harbor and came to anchor at 1..30 p. m. The latter part of the day 
a strong breeze and a moderate gale from the west-northwest sprang up, with a heavy sea in the 
bay. The Indians congregated in great numbers upon the arrival of the surf-boat, and they were 
in our way continually. It) order to distract their attention we visited the village eit maxse and 
remained there till 10 p. m. Night came on cold, and the men experienced some discomfort in 
their airy quarters. 

August 29, 1884.— Began with a fresh northwest breeze and overcast. At 10.30 the surf-boat 
got under way and stood out of th.; harhor. Mr. McLenegan, of my i>arty, left for the Coricin. 
There being no nece.ssity of his remaining longer, at his request I gave him permission to 
rejoin the ship. At noon, the wind having lulled somewhat, we got steam up and stood out of the 
harbor and passed into Kotzebue Sound. We stood for the channel, but were obliged to turn 
back on account of the sea, which made clean breaches over the launch. At .3.30 we reentered 
the harbor and canie to anchor. Night came on cold and windy. At miiluight the wind was still 
blowing, but unsteadily, so that I hoped to be able to go down the bay in the morning. Average 
temperature, .'ioo. 

August 30, 1884.— Began with a moderate northwest breeze, clear, with light snow-flurries. At 
5.30 ordered steam on launch, broke camp, and cached the skiff near our encampment, as I thought 
I could not tow both boats over the bar. At 7..30 a. m. got under way and stood out of the harbor. 
At 0.30 stood westward in Kotzebue Sound, and at 10 a. m. took the skin boat in tow. Sounding 
along the beach I found from three to four feet of water. At 12.30 crossed the bar and met the 
surf boat fifteen miles westward of Cape Blossom, with Lieutenant Cook in charge. Had dinner 
at 2..30 p. m., and got under way atid stood southward. The wind increa.sed and we dropped the 
skin boat, as she couhl sail faster than the launch could tow her. At 4.30 took in sail and 
unstrapped mast. Steamed alongside the Corwin and reported our return on board to Capt. M. 
A. Uealy. 

N umber of days on trip 51 

Number of days under way 43 

Number of miles made up the river 370 

Number of miles made in exploring Sela.wik Lake and region 204. 9 

Number of miles from Corwin to mouth of river 75 

Number of miles from Selawik Lake to Coricin 85 

Total number of miles made 1, 104. 9 

Respectfully submitted. 

.John ('. Cantvveli,, 

Third Lieutenant U. S. Revenue Marine, in charge of Expedition. 



EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA. 



ETHNOLOGICAL NOTES. 

BY 

THIRD LIEUT. J. C. CANTWELL, 

U. S. Revenue Marine. 

188 4. 

(ILLUSTRATED WITH NINE PHOTOGRAPHS AND FIVE PLATES.) 



75 



INTRODUCTORY. 



In taking np the subject of Alaskan ethnology I feel the natural hesitation of an inexperi- 
enced observer to advance any new theories, or even discuss old ones, touching such a vast branch 
of the study as treats of the origin of the Eskimos and their tribal classification. The object of 
this report will be, then, to describe as simply as possible the cliaracteristic feature of the natives 
as they appeared to me during tiie work of exploration of the Kowak itiver and Selawik Lake 
region, leaving to more competent ethnological students the important work of sifting and reducing 
the evidence as here presented into such form as may be of service in the preparation of a more 
formal and pretentious work. 

Range of ohnervation. — For reasons fully explained in the narrative account of the exploration 
of the Kowak, the expedition was compelled to relinquish the attempt to reach the headwaters of 
the river and to return to the coast. When this had been accomplished there still remained a 
suflBcient time from the period allotted me to make a short journey by boat through the Selawik 
Lake region, embracing tbe circumnavigation of the lake and a partial examination of the river 
delta. This reconnaissance not only brought me into contact with the native living in this region, 
but furnished me with information in regard to the topography, which resulted in several important 
changes being made in the maps of that section of the country. (8ee description of chart.) 

After the completion of this work I nioved our canjp to a sand-spit projecting into Kotzebue 
.Sound, from the southern side of the entrance to Hotham Inlet, where the coast natives of the 
several settlements from Bering Strait, northward to Cape Lisburne, had rendezvoused to trade 
with the natives of the interior living on the Noitoc, Kowak, and Selawik Rivers. The opportunity 
thus offered me for observation was not lost, and in company with Mr. McLenegan and onr interpre- 
ter I visited the rendezvous every day. By persistent questioning and close personal observa- 
tions the information which is here furnished was verified and corrected, and afterwards reduced 
to its present state. I have resisted the temptation seemingly inseparable from the first attempts 
of a writer in an entirely new field to exaggerate the facts falling under my notice, and have rejected 
all material which did not staiul the test of thorough investigation, or about which there existeil 
any material ditference of opinion. In tliis way I believe I have obtained data in regard to these 
people whieh, if not all new, is at least reliable, and will famish available matter for filling in a 
portion of the blank space ou the ethnological chart of Alaska. 

77 



ALASKAN ETHNOLOGICAL NOTES. 



INLAND NATIVES. 

Under this subdivision 1 iucUide the natives living in the interior of Northwest Ahiska, on or 
near the banks of the three large streams whose waters emptj' into Kotzebue Sound through 
Hotbaiu Inlet, namely : the Noitoc, Kowak, and Selawik rivers. The language of these three 
tribes differs so little that it may be looked upon as a common tongue, and their general habits 
and customs are so similar tbat they may be considered as one race. 

Mode of life. — During the first part of the winter, when the sun is in the south and the long 
Arctic night is on the earth, all these tribes live in small isolated communities, usually consisting 
of from one to three families, in subterranean houses erected near the banks of the larger streams. 
With the return of the sun and daylight they desert these houses, and as soon as the ground is in 
good condition, that is to say, when the snow has fallen in sufficient quantity and the surface is 
frozen to the requisite degree of hardness to furnish good traveling, they take up their uomatlic 
mode of life and do not settle permanently into villages until the fishing season sets in late in the 
following spring. In response to repeated inquiries as to whether there were any permanent winter 
settlements in the interior, I was informed that none existed. The tiesh of the reindeer furnishes 
the natives witli their chief means of subsistence during the winter, and in hunting they are 
compelled to follow them hundreds of miles, from place to place, over the vast tundra plains in 
their restless search for food. Under such circumstances the establishment of permanent winter 
settlements is impossible. 

During these winter migrations the young men of a family or commune first push forward on 
snow-shoes to locate a herd of reindeer, and are followed by the old men, women, and children, 
who bring up the impedimenta of domestic economy on sleds drawn by dogs. The work of the 
women on these occasions is especially arduous; and for all the struggle for existence is prosecuted 
in the face of difficulties which would seem to our minds absolutely appalling. Arrived at a suita- 
ble place for encampment, which must not be too far removed from the feeding reindeer, nor yet 
80 near as to risk stampeding their quarry, all hands set at once to work to build a snow house or 
igloo. This work is soon finished, and the sleds are unloaded and placed on the top of the house 
out of reach of the famished dogs, who would speedily gnaw the deer-skin lasliings on the sleds to 
pieces if left within their reach. Meanwhile the boys have stored away the contents of the sleds 
within the house, and a fire being lighted by igniting moss saturated in oil contained in a stone 
iani[) the women proceed to cook what there is to be eaten. 

Every morning, when the weather permits, the hunters of the party lea-ve the igloo and prose- 
cute the search for game, and at night, when they return, the women divest them of their wet 
clothing, furnish them with dry garments, and cook whatever has been brought in by the provider. 
A small portion is usually set aside out of the amount provided for future use, but all these peojile 
are strangely and often fatally improvident. It seldom happens that there is more than two or 
three days' extra supply of provisions on hand, and as it frequently hai)pens that stormy or 
intensely cold weather keeps the hunters close prisoners within doors for a week at a time, starvar 

79 



80 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

tion ofteu threatens and sometiint's overtakes whole families at once. Except in the case of (Irving 
sufficient lisli to last them from the time the rivers are frozen over until the winter hunting begins, 
there does not appear to be the slightest attempt on the part of the natives to lay up any amount 
of provisions in time of plenty to be used in case of accident or an unusual scarcity of game. The 
cooking of these natives while living in their siiow houses is done by tilling a small wooden tub 
with snow, which melts when brought in the heated air of the igloo, and is brought to the boiling 
point by iilunging into it stones heated to redness in the flame of the stone lamp. The meat is 
partially boiled by this means. 

When two or more parties happen to meet on one of these hunting expeditions they endeavor 
to combine the lierds they are respectively following, and if successful they will thenceforth hunt 
in company, looking upon the products of the chase as common i)roperty. Although most of 
these natives are provided with fire-arms, the native spear and arrow, both fired from a bow, are 
used iu hunting the reindeer. Fire-arms are objectionable both on account of the scarcity of 
ammunition and the noise of discharge. 

Toward the last of the season, when the snow begins to leave the ground and the ice is melted 
in the rivers and lakes, the reindeer begin to grow more restless and harder to herd, a grand hunt 
is inaugurated. By a preconcerted avraugement the natives drive their several herds toward a 
point, contriving to get then} all there about the same time. In the region near the headwaters 
of the Kowak, Noitoe, and another river which native reports impress us with the belief is the 
Colville, is a lake forming the headwaters of the latter stream. It is on the shores of this lake 
that the grand annual hunt takes place. The reindeer are gradually heidcd together and partly 
surrounded by tlie hunters, who then slowly contract their lines until the deer find tliimselves 
inclosed on all sides except one, and that has been purposely left unguarded by the hunters. 
When the movement has reached this stage the hunters rush forwanl, shouting and making 
all the noise possible, for the purpose of stamiieding the deer. This is {.enerally successful, and 
hundreds of the poor creatures plunge into the lake, for this is the only jioint by whi(!h escape 
seems possible, and are followed by tlie hunters iu boats provided for tlie i)urpose and a carnival 
of slaughter follows. 

With the opening of spring, when tlie ice in the rivers begins to break up and the snow has 
melted to such an extent as to render traveling by sled any longer possible, the natives gather 
iu small settlements along the banks of the larger rivers, erect summer houses or tupecs, the men 
to hunt and trap, and the women to get ready their nets for the summer fishing. When the ice 
finally leaves the rivers the hunters get ready their furs which have been collected during the 
winter, and descend in open boats to the coast, where they meet white traders who come into the 
Arctic duiing tiie summer season for the jturpose of barter. Usually these natives remain on the 
coast either for the juirpose of trading or for pleasure, in taking part in the games and festivities, 
attending the summer rendezvous until winter again comes on and the cold weather reminds them 
that they must return to their inland homes. 

Meanwhile the women, who appear to be the only creatures of the body politic (not even 
excepting the dogs) who have no season of rest, are busy witli the fishing. During exceptionally 
open winters, when the ice in Kotzebue Sound moves offshore early in t lie spring, and thus allows the 
ice-gorged rivers to free themselves, there are two runs of salmon, but when the ice remains packed 
in close to the shore, as it usually does in Kotzebue Sound, until late in the season, only one run 
takes place. This was the case during the season of 1SS4. We entered the river on the Sth day 
of July, and at each of the fishing villages passed on our way up the lower river we found the 
peoi)le .suttering for food on account of the late run of fish. Before wo turned to descend, however, 
the salmon had arrived, and wo had ample opportunity for observing the methods in use with the 
natives for capturing and curing the fish. The site of a fishing village is usually on a sand and 
gravel beach near the water's edge and at a part of the river where the channel is contracted by 
shoals. The houses at these villages are very simple affairs, made by planting a half dozen supple 
willow wands into the ground in the form of a circle and then bending their upper ends toward the 
(tenter and twisting them together basljetfashion to form the frame. Over this frame a covering 
made of drilling or deer-skins is thrown and the house is complete. A jirimitive but serviceable 
shelter from the hot sun and almost continuous lains of the summer season was observed at 




LITTLE GIRL, SHOWING IVORY CHARM WORN AROUND THE NECK. 



CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWm. 81 

several villages made with a covering of large pieces of birch bark sown together. In each village 
there is a storehouse made of heavy pieces of timber stood on end and a flat roof made of small 
poles, where fish are stored after having been dried in the sun. This house has a rude door which 
can be closed and thus efiFectually prevent the depredations of dogs. 

As no cooking is done within the house during the summer there is no necessity foran opening 
in the roof for the escape of smoke, and in order to be protected as much as possible from the 
tormenting mosquito exit and entry are made by lifting a corner of the covering and crawling under 
as quickly as possible. Additional jirotection is had by building fires made of green boughs, which 
produce a stifling smoke. 

The nets used in taking the fish are made of thread manufactured by twisting together the 
tough fibrous root of a specios of plant found in abundance along the banks of the river. They 
are from thirty to sixty feet long and from four to five and one-half feet wide and are made with a 
two to three inch mesh. The knot used in forming the mesh is the ordinary " fisherman's bend." 
■ Sinkers are made from short pieces of reindeer antlers or bits of stone. The boats used by the 
women in laying out the nets are made of spruce bark ingeniously fastened to a wooden frame by 
thread made from the inner bark of the willow. The seams are made perfectly water-tight by 
cementing them with melted spruce-gum. 

At the height of the fishing season some one is always on the lookout for a school of fish, and 
when one is seen approaching the village — and the commotion in the water leaves no room for 
doubt — two or three women leap into a boat, in which is a net all ready for laying out, and paddle 
vigorously up stream until they reach a point about one hundred yards above the village. One 
end of the net is now landed and held by some of the women on shore while the boat's head is 
turned across stream. When all of the net has been laid out the boat is allowed to drift with the 
current, and the shore end of the net being held stationary, the boat gradually approaches the 
beach. When she grounds the women leap out and begin hauling in the net with its plunging, 
flashing catch of salmon. Many escape by leaping over the top of the net, and to prevent this 
the little boys rush into the water and, seizing the fish by their tails, throw them far out on the 
beach. One of the amusing sights witnessed by our party while looking on at the hauling in of a 
seine was the spectacle of a very small boy who had seized a very large salmon, whose vigorous 
efforts to escape had reduced the plucky youngster to the necessity of piteously calling for help. 

The fishing season is a period filled with rare enjoyment to at least one class of the native 
population. The old men who are too feeble to make the long journey to the coast and return are 
left at home with the women, and do nothing but eat fish and sleep all the time. A fire is kept 
going night and day, in which large round stones are heated and then thrown into a tub of water. 
By this means the water is brought to the boiling point, when the stones are removed and replaced 
by fish. An old woman superintends the cooking, armed with a huge spoon from the skull of the 
mountain sheep. When she declares the feast ready everybody gathers around the fire, and after 
the old men have been served the rest help themselves. The fish are eaten from small wooden 
platters or shallow bowls. 

In addition to the method of catching fish with seines, as described above, the use of conical- 
shaped willow traps is common. They are made to sink beneath the surface of the water and 
with the entrance so constructed that the fish can easily get into the trap, but find it impossible 
to get out. For some species of small fish, such as the grayling, trout, etc., a native fish-hook of 
ingenious manufacture is used with great success. (See sketch, Figures 2 and 4, Plate 11.) 

The salmon are cured and prepared for winter use by splitting them open and removing all 
the oflfal, the head, and backbone. Transverse cuts are then made in the fiesh and the body is 
hung up to dry on racks placed along the beach. The roe is dried separately. I saw only one 
instance of fish being buried to be subsequently exhumed and eaten when putrid. I do not believe 
the custom is as common here as it is with the Yukon River natives. 

Physical appearance. — The natives of the interior have, as a rule, rather dark complexions, 
prominent cheek bones, large months, and a sharp chin, giving to the face a triangular appearance 
very different from the round face of the coast Eskimo. Their hair is black aTid straight. It is 
worn long except in front, where it is trimmed across the forehead on a line with the eyebrows. 
They are quick in their movements, active and strong in youth, but grow aged-looking rapidly. 
H. Mis. 602 G 



82 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

What impressed me was the fact that I saw very few men of apijarent middle age. The women are 
somewliiit lighter complexioncd than the men. Their faces are more oval-shaped, and their eyes 
have a mnch softer expression. They wear the hair parted neatly in the middle and arranged 
in two braids, which are worn in front of the ears. In common with all these northern tribes, the 
extremities of both sexes are very small, and, in the case of the women, remarkably well shaped. 
Moral character. — The fact that these interior tribes are better morally than their brethern of 
tho^coast is so apparent that even the dullest observer must see the difference between the two, 
and woniler how it happens that these natives who have been brought into contact with our 
boasted civilization are more objectionable in their manners and less trustworthy than those who 
have not enjoyed these advantages. A few words will suflBce to show the moral character of these 
gentle hyperboreans. They are honest in their dealings with strangers and amongst themselves, as 
we had ample means of finding out. They are simple and credulous, and easily deceived, showing 
that they are not liable to deceive others. They are hospitable, and although intensely curious, 
are not prying or intrusive. In their domestic relations they are kind and devoted to each other, • 
and the universal consideration paid by all to the very old and feeble is one of the touching and 
admiral)Ic traits of their character. The extraordinarily kind and indulgent treatment of their 
children is a trait which is common to all these northern tribes. 

They have no laws except that one which seems to be inherent in the hearts of all rational 
beings, to " do unto others as ye would others should do unto you," and I believe that these people 
live up to tiiat law as perfectly as their sense of what is right and wrong will allow them. There 
are certain contradictory phases of character in all of these tribes which seem at first glance to be 
irreconcilable with their generally kind and loving disposition. I allude to the harsh treatment of 
their women, especially at the time of child-birth, and at other periods when nature would seem to 
claim for them the utmost care and protection. Following the customs of all of the Alaskan coast 
tribes in this region, the women arc isolated at the time of confinement, and for a period of a week 
or ten days after child-birth no fresh food is allowed to pass their lips. At the time of her monthly 
periods of menstruation a woman is not allowed to enter a boat or ride upon the sled of her husband. 
This often entails on her additional hardship in a life which at best is but one long act of drudgery. 
Another bad trait of these natives is their apparent inability to tell the truth under cei-tain 
circumstances. The traveler must accept with care the tales some of these Munchausens tell of 
the size of fish, length of rivers, width of lakes, etc. Upon cross-examination when a statement is 
proven to be false or erroneous they do not evince any shame whatever. 

Governmeiif.—WheTd there are no laws it follows that there is no necessity for rulers, and so 
it is with all these tribes. There are no recognized chiefs, nor does there seem to be any tribal 
union among them. With the interior tribes the exercise of " Shamanism," so-called, is prevalent, 
and the " shaman," in some instances which came under my notice, seemed to have a prepondera- 
ting influence in the councils of the settlement or commune. Exactly how the " shaman " receives 
his supposed power which he claims enables him to converse with spirits was not clearly explained. 
Some peculiar circumstance attending his birth, or the fact that he has passed through some ordeal 
which few could undergo, probably has much to do with the case. Again, in all communities of 
human beings there seem to exist individuals who are gifted by nature with a higher order ot 
intelligence than their fellows, and for that reason are naturally looked up to and their advice 
sought on all important occasions. The "shamans" whom we had occasion to deal with were 
observed to be more retiring and dignified in their bearing than what I was led to expect from 
reading reports on the subject by other writers. They were generally the last to make our 
acquaintance at a settlement and seldom remained long near our camp, which was a trait so 
unusual with the natives as to attract our attention at once. An instance of the display of the 
"shaman's" powers is mentioned in the narrative portion of this report. 

The omailik or chief trader and general business agent of the Eskimo coast tribes is not so 
common among these nomadic people. They have so little to barter that it does not give any one 
man the chance to accumulate wealth by the exercise of a superior talent for business. 

In all discussions touching the welfare of the community or any important project, the women, 
especially the old ones, join, and their opinions are received with evident respect by the men. 

While there are no laws among them and consequently no recognized punishment for the com- 




GROUP OF NORTON SOUND NATIVES, FORT ST. MICHAELS. 



.^^ 











^J^iijj't \M\ _„;rfL;; ..^-t— 1j- '.siC 



NATIVE VILLAGE, KING'S ISLAND. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 83 

mission of crime, there exists a kind of moral code which governs them in all their relations one 
with another. To disturb a cache of clothing or provisions which does not belong to one, for in- 
stance, is considered a very great sin ; but should intense suffering or imminent danger from starva- 
tion make it necessary to open anothers cache there is no redress for the owner and none is sought. 

Diseases. — Pulmonary complaints and rheumatism are the principal causes of sickness among 
these natives. Weak or inflamed eyes are frequently seen, but it is probable that the cause is 
attributable more to neglect of sanitary precautions in regard to ventilation of their winter houses 
thjin to any organic disorder. Epidemic diseases are of rare occurrence. Smallpox sometimes 
reaches this region through communication with the natives living on the Koyukuk River, a 
confluent of the Yukon ; but as I observed only one native marked with this dread disease it 
probably never reaches the epidemic stage. Syphilis has not as yet reached the interior settlements 
to any great extent, but as it is common among the coast tribes, it is only a question of time 
when its ravages will extend to these people. But little is known in regard to the treatment of 
the sick, and it is believed that beyond a very few herbs used by the " shaman " to assist him in 
his incantations of evil spirits while attending the sick, nothing is given in the way of medicine 
to cure the disorder. 

Funeral ceremonies. — The dead are not interred nor does there appear to be any formal funeral 
ceremonies. The body is removed to some secluded spot, usually on a bluft' overlooking the river, 
and laid upon the ground. A shelter is made by erecting a small conical-shaped structure of 
spruce logs over the body and a tree near by is stripped of its branches and small pieces of cloth 
are tied to it to mark the spot. The household utensils, sled, and some of the weapons of the 
deceased are left with him, and the spot is tabooed henceforth. 

Food. — As has already been intimated, the principal food of the natives during the winter 
months is reindeer meat. Pish are also caught tlirough holes made in the ice on the rivers and 
lakes which dot the country. The flesh of the bear, fox, wolf, muskrat, beaver, and mountain 
sheep also is eaten, and forms a welcon>e addition to their ration. During the brief summer season 
salmon is the principal article of subsistence with those who live far inland on the rivers, while 
those who make the journey to the coast or who live in the settlements near the mouths of the 
rivers have a much greater variety of articles to eat. The flesh of the seal and white whale is 
eagerly devoured and the greatest abundance of many varieties of edible berries are found on 
the tundra plains. Among these the salmon and blue berry are favorites and are eaten by the 
natives soaked in seal oil. Wild currants grow abundantly in the higher land of the upper-river 
region, and among the wild edible roots indigenous to the region, observed by our party, were the 
onion, celery, parsnip, and a plant resembling rhubai'b. The parsnip is considered poisonous on 
the Yukon River, but our party frequently ate the species found here without any perceptible evil 
eftect. The tender shoots of the willow are cooked in oil and eaten by the natives when hard 
pushed for food. 

I was curious to observe how our food would bo accepted by the natives, and found that for 
such articles as flour, pemmican, tea, and rice they showed a decided fondness. Sweets, such as 
sugar, canned fruit, and condensed milk, were also greedily eaten; but for salt pork they evinced 
such aversion that there could be no mistaking their repugnance for it. During the time some of 
the natives were xyith our party and living on our ration, whenever pork or bacon formed the meat 
portion of our meals they would not touch it, and I was compelled to purchase some dried fish 
for their especial benefit. The upper waters of the Kowak and the many lakes and lagoons near 
the rivers teem with myriads of geese and duck during the breeding season, which lasts from July 
until the latter part of August. Swans and cranes are also found in limited numbers in the more 
secluded parts of the river and interior lakes. All these birds are boiled after being skinned. The 
head, feet, and intestines are considered the choice morsels. This ftict flrst came to my notice while 
camping in company with some river Indians who had shot a goose. With the intention of paying 
me particular attention, these tidbits were set before me by one of their number. 

Clothing. — The clothing of all these tribes is essentially the same, consisting of an outer and 
inner coat or "parka" of deer-skin, tight-fitting trousers of hair-seal skin, and boots with deer- 
skin leggins and soles made of walrus or white- whale skin. In winter the inner garments are worn 
with the fur next to the body and the outer ones reversed. No hats or caps are worn by either 



g4 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

sex, but the outer "parka" is made with a hood, which is drawu over the head, leaving only the 
face exposed during cold weather. Around the edge of the hood a piece of some long-haired fur is 
sewed to protect the eyes from Hying particles of snow. Wolf-skin is usually preferred for this 
purpose. The women's "parkas" are much longer than the men's, reaching below the knee in 
front and behind, bat cut up on the sides almost to the waist to allow of a free use of the legs in 

walking. 

The women wear a belt to confine their " parkas" around the waist, and to it are fastened by 
short deerskin thongs bits of ivory, metal buttons, leather bags in which are kept tobacco, matches, 
needles, etc., and any other small article of value to them. This belt also enables a mother to carry 
her baby underneath the folds of her " parka," which is the usual resting place of the young Eskimo. 
In addition to the boots, iuncr shoes or socks made of soft, tanned buck or hair-seal skin are worn. 
Mittens made of reindeer-skin, with the hair turned in, are worn winter and summer. During the 
summer season much lighter and generally more worn clothing is used, the inner garments are 
discarded, and where cloth can be obtained it is substituted for fur. The skins of the muskrat 
and squirrel are extensively used for summer parkas. At several places on the Kowak I observed 
children with only one garment on — a parka — which left their legs bare to the attacks of the 
blood-thirsty mosquito, and compelled them to crouch down near the ground and withdraw their 
arms from the sleeves of the parka to avoid these pests. Some of the children's parkas are made 
of bird-skius sewed together, and the sightof half a dozen of these little savages sitting crouched 
along the banks of the river remiuded us of a flock of storks fishing. Ail the clothing of these 
tribes, and, iu fact, everything they wear or use capable of harboring life, abounds in vermin. Their 
houses are so filled with these disgusting creatures that after one sad experience I never entered 
a winter habitation. The women make all of the clothing and keep it iu order. They are expert 
in the use of the needle, but their work in this respect does not compare with that of the coast 
natives. Thread is made of deer sinew, and I saw a few specimens of needles made of bone, but 
they arc now almost obsolete, being replaced by steel needles obtained in barter on the coast. 

Transportation and locomotion. — The interior of northwest Alaska is composed of detached, 
broken, aud irregular mountain rauges and vast stretches of sponged sphagnum or tundra plains. 
These plains are crossed in every direction by small streams, which take their rise in innumerable 
lakes. If the inexperienced traveler, tired of the confinement of his boat, leaves her and attempts 
to walk, he will not get very far before he finds himself plunging and floundering in an impassable 
morass. Underneath the moss-covered surface the earth has been reduced to a mud like consistency 
by the constant rain from overhead and the melting ice which forms the base of the thin layer of 
soil. There are no continuous mountain chains where by seeking the high ridges one may avoid 
the tuudra, and even on the mountains the dense growth of moisture-holding moss is found at an 
elevation of 2,000 feet. In such a country the use of a boat for summer traveling is imperative. 
The native never thiuks of making a journey of any consequence at this season by any other way 
than by water. 

At the settlements near the coast the ordinary skin boats and kaiaks of the Eskimo are used, 
but when we reached the region of the Upper Kowak, where timber was abundant, we found the 
skin boat had been replaced by boats made of spruce and birch bark. The former material is used 
extensively in the construction of the large boats used by the women while fishing and for the 
purpose of general transportation. Lighter canoes of most exquisite design are made of birch 
bark stretched over frames made of well-seasoned wood. These little boats are from eight to ten 
feet long by two feet wide at the point of greatest breadth of beam, a little forward of the center 
of the boat. From here the sides curve to a point at each end. They are undecked except for a 
short distance forward, where a piece of bark is laid across the bow and secured to the rail on 
either side. The bark is put on the frame in transverse sections for greater strength and is secured 
iu place by lashings made of willow bark. The seams of all the bark canoes and boats are made 
water tight by cementing them with melted spruce gum. The single-bladed paddle is used exclu- 
sively in the large boats, but in the small canoes both single and double bladed paddles are used. 
In slioal water, or when keeping close to shore to avoid the current, paddles are discarded and the 
boats are forced ahead by " poling"; short sticks or the shafts of spears are used for this purpose. 
The canoes are used exclusively by the hunters, and, although they are very frail and do not weigh 




NATIVES AT RENDEZVOUS NEAR ICY CAPE, ALASKA. 




NATIVE KYAK. 



CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN, 85 

over twenty-five pounds, the natives handle them with such skill that they are seldom injured, 
and they will fearlessly venture into rapids filled with rocks where the slightest error of judgment 
would result in destruction to their boats. 

To keep these boats iu good order it is necessary to have them perfectly water-tight. The 
seams need constant attention, and this work falls upon the women. We had two canoes with 
us on our expedition, and whenever we stopped at a fishing village some of the women would haul 
the boats up on the beach and repair any breaks or stop any leaks which showed themselves by 
holding a lighted firebrand and a piece of spruce gum together and by blowing vigorously melt the 
gum sufliciently to apply it to the weak or damaged spot. 

During the winter season transportation of heavy articles and the movement of families is 
efiected by means of dog-sleds. The sleds are from six to eight feet long by two to three feet wide. 
They are made of wood securely lashed together with thongs made of deer or seal skin. Some 
of the sleds are furnished with handles behind to steer by and rails along the sides, to which is 
secured the load. The runners are sometimes shod with ivory or bone, but more frequently are 
left bare and protected with a shoe of ice when in use. The ability to make an ice-shoe which will 
be serviceable is one of the tests of a good Eskimo hunter. A team of dogs is usually composed 
of five dogs, but three strong, well-broken animals will drag a heavy load at a very fair speed. 
The proper management of a dog team is something which seems to be almost impossible for white 
men to learn, and a native driver is as essential as the team itself if a journey is to be made by 
dog sled. The dogs are trained to travel long distances without food and are never fed, except at 
rare intervals, until the day's journey has been accomplished. The driver runs ahead of the dogs 
and by cries of encouragement induces them to follow him. If the journey to be taken has been 
performed before and the road is familiar to the dogs, they require no coaxing, but dash away at 
full speed, anxious to have the work done and receive their reward iu the shape of a meal of 
dried fish. The harness used on the dogs is very simple. It consists of a few straps so arranged 
as to bring the strain and weight of the load on the shoulders. The dogs are driven tandem. 
Much depends on«the condition of the road, the state of the weather, etc., in forming an estimate of 
the length of a day's journey, but under ordinary circumstances sixty miles a day is reckoned as 
the average amount of work which a dog team can accomplish. But even this can not be kept 
up for any great length of time. Their feet get tender and sore and they become peevish and 
quarrelsome. At such times they are unreliable and almost unmanagable. The smooth surface of 
the rivers after a light fall of snow has covered the ice is much used by sled parties, but where the 
meandering course of the stream would lengthen their journey considerably the natives leave the 
river and take to the rolling land above the timber line. In traveling to and from their winter 
hunting and trapping grounds the natives make use of well-known routes, and at several points 
along the banks of the stream A-ta-ta-rok, our guide, pointed out to me a tall pole to which was 
fastened the form of a bear or fish rudely carved, and informed me that those were guide-posts set 
up by the natives t^ indicate the points where they mu.st leave the river. Monuments composed 
of stones were also observed on the tops of several low mountains near the river, having been 
built by the natives for beacons during the time when tile snow covers the ground and hides all 
familiar features of the landscape from sight. 

The snow-shoes of the natives of this region are much longer and of finer workmanship than 
any I have ever observed at other places in Alaska. They range from three to five and a half 
feet iu length by five to ten inches in width. The frame is made of one piece of spruce or larch 
bent into shape when green. The forward end is rounded and the two ends of the piece of wood 
forming the frame are brought together and lashed with a stout thong of deer-sinew. The front 
is now turned up a distance equal to about half the width of the shoe. Two pieces of wood are 
inserted transversely between the sides of the frame about three-quarters of the distance from the 
rear to the forward end and securely lashed. Stout thongs of bear skin or other strong material 
are passed around these cross-pieces to make a foot-rest, and the spaces to the rear and in front 
of the foot-rest are filled up with a very fine but strong netting made of twisted deer-sinew. The 
method of securing this thread to the frame so as to prevent its being chafed through by contact 
with the snow is very ingenious. The shoe is attached to the foot by broad toe-straps fastened to 
the front cross-piece. 



86 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. 



WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE CHASE. 

In the course of iny investigatious I observed five forms of spears and three of arrows ; the 
description and uses of which are as follows : 

Spears : 

(1) Reindeer; Thrusting.— Shaft of spruce or larch about five feet long, slightly tapering, 

with head of chipped flint, ivory, or, rarely, jade. 

(2) Projectile. — Light wooden shaft three and one-half to four feet in length, with short 

chipped flint or iron head, shot from a bow. 

(3) Throicing. — Sliaft four and one-half to five feet long, smaller than (1), with barbed 

ivory or bone head two and one-half inclies long, darted at fish or small game. 

(4) Bird spear. — Light wooden shaft like (3), with barbed ivory or boue head, rarely 

curved, and with three ivory or boue prongs fastened in the middle. 

(5) Bear spear. — Shaft larger than deer spear, with iron or chipped flint head, rarely 

obsidian or jade. 
Arrows : 

(1) Reindeer. — Shaft two and one-half feet long, with long ivory, bone, or chipped flint 

and, rarely, obsidian head. 

(2) Bear or other dangerous game. — Shaft larger than (1), with short, sharp-pointed iron or 

chipped flint head. 

(3) Bird. — Liyht shaft feathered at small end, with blunt bone or, rarely, stone head. 
The bow used by the natives is about five feet loug, made of larch and re-enforced with raw- 
hide or sinew. In order to increase the propulsive power of the arm in throwing spears a flat 
board is used eighteen inches long and two and one-half inclies wide, having a hole through one 
end for the finger and its upper surface grooved to steady the weapon. 

Bird slings. — Made of several oblong i^ieces of ivory one and one-half inches long by one inch 
thick, having holes in the ends, to which are attached thongs of rawhide or deer-sinew. In practice, 
the thongs being knotted together so as to leave the pieces of ivory suspended freely at a distance 
of about two feet from the knot, a kind of "bulas" is formed, which is thrown into a flock of birds 
with the intention of entangling their wings and rendering their capture easy. _ 

Snow spectacles. — In order to protect the eyes from the glare of the snow, wooden blinders or 
spectacles are worn. They are made of soft wood hollowed out to tit over the eyes, and a narrow 
slit is made in each pair large enough to look through. 

Traps.— Tha ordinary steel spring trap of commerce is used by all of these tribes, and forms 
one of the staple articles of trade between them and the traders on the coast. Besides these the 
natives employ a number of means of capturing animals and birds, some of which are common to 
all hunters and others which are peculiar to this region. Bear traps are made of very heavy logs, 
which are so arranged as to fall on the animal when an attempt is made to take the bait. They 
are clumsy affairs, and the natives confess that they are not very successful in capturing this 
animal by means of these traps. For smaller game, such as foxes, lynx, beaver, etc., steel traps or 
figure of- four traps of native make are used. Deer are sometimes driven into the snow-choked 
gorges of dry river beds and into pits over which a light covering of brush and snow has been 
laid. Along the sandy beaches of the river I frequently saw a row of small stakes or bushes 
Bet up, and on inquiring their use was informed that the geese which breed here would not attempt 
to force their way through this line of stakes, but would follow it uj) until an opening was found, 
and here a trap would be set. The boys use loops and snares made of deer-sinew fastened to 
small trees bent down and so arranged that any disturbance of the bait will cause the tree to be 
released and fly violently upward. By this means hares, ermine, rauskrat, grouse, etc., are taken. 

SnoiD traps are made of scpiare pieces of snow arranged like a dead-fall. In nearly all these 
cases the bait is not put into the traj), as the animals soon learn to shun them, but into little snow 
houses, and the trap is set and concealed in or near the door. Among the articles which come 
under this head are looi)S of sinew used for catching fish instead of using a hook. In the clear 





TARTAROK. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIK 87 

water of the upper rivers, where the fish cau be seen lying almost motionless in the quiet pools 
with their heads turned up-stream, this method of taking fish is employed with varying skill and 
success by the natives. 

Implements of special crafts. — The most important article of native domestic economy is the 
knife. In the past a rude imjilement was made of stone, bone, or ivory, but now iron has replaced 
the use of the primitive implements to such an extent that only in rare instances could the latter be 
found. Iron and steel knives are imported into the country from the United States, and he is a 
very poor hunter who has not purchased one at least of these necessary articles. As a usual 
thing the larger they are the better. They are woru strapped to the thigh, and are carefully 
protected from injury from damijuess by a sheath made of hair-seal or deer-skin. In their hands 
the knife is used eitber as a weapon or a tool ; as a tool it is remarkable what a degree of perfec- 
tion the natives have reached in its use. Spears, bows, arrows, etc., which require great nicety 
of finish, are made with the knife alone. The shafts of arrows specially attracted my notice on 
account of their symmetrical appearance, being as round and smooth as if lathe-turned. 

Womanh Icnife, made of chipped flint, jade, or sharpened slate, with a wooden or bone handle, 
is still common among the interior tribes. It is used principally in the work of splitting fish during 
the fishing season. 

Drills made of iron or rarely of stone were seen. The point of the drill is inserted in the end 
of a handle made of soft wood. Drill-bows are made of ivory, bone, or wood, with holes in the 
ends to which are attached a thong of rawhide or sinew. The upper end of the handle is rounded, 
and in use is rested against a small stone socket hfild between the teeth. 

Ice-drill. — A short piece of pointed antler made to be lashed to the end of a shaft. 

Fire-drills. — A piece of hard wood iu shape like an ordinary drill shaft. This method of 
obtaining fire is now obsolete, but the operation was performed for me by a very old woman after 
much labor. 

Flint-faker. — A short piece of iron, evidently the remains of a knife with a bone handle. The 
use of iron aud the introduction of fire-arms is doing much to render the use of stone obsolete, and 
the occupation of chipping flints, which was once pursued with profit by these inland river people 
and especially by the natives of the Kowak, will soon be entirely gone. 

Feathering tool. — Made of a small wedge-shaped piece of bone, used for fixing feathers on 
arrows. 

Needles. — Steel needles from the United States are used almost entirely. I saw only two 
specimens of bone needles of native manufacture, one of which was made for me by our guide 
A-ta-ta-rok. 

HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS. 

Under this subdivision I include, for the sake of brevity, several articles which can not properly 
be classed separately, but which are not, strictly speaking, used exclusively iu the work of the 
household. 

Vessels for holding water, cooJcing, etc. — Wooden tubs for boiling fish, meat, etc., in are made 
of a thin, pliable piece of spruce bent into the shape of a circle aud having a bottom fitted of some- 
what heavier material. No better idea of the appearance of oue of these tubs can be had than is 
furnished by an ordinary cheese-box without the cover. The vessel is made watertight by pitch- 
ing the seams with melted spruce gum. The manuer of cooking food in one of these tubs has 
already been described. (See Food.) 

Small bowls for serving food are made by carving them out of some soft wood. During the 
summer season very neat and serviceable platters are made by bending a piece of birch bark into 
the required shape and securing it by a few stitches of willow-bark thread. 

Baskets for carrying fish from the beach to the racks are made by weaving thin splints of 
willow together. They are very shallow, the native basket-maker apparently not having yet 
learned to make deep ones. 

Horn dippers made in one piece of the sknll of the mountaiu slieeji. Used in skimming grease 
from the surface of water in which food is being cooked and for dishing out the food. 



88 CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

Ivory dipper. — Carved from fossil ivory, which is common on the Kowak and Selawik Rivers. 
Used iu dipping up water, bailing out boats, etc. 

Wooden apoons. — I saw one specimen of a wooden spoon evidently made in imitation of a metal 
table-spoou which had been seen by the maker ou the coast. 

Forks. — I saw no forks, but shortly after our advent into the river country one of the natives 
accompanying our party made a very good imitation of our metal ones, of bone with a wooden 
handle. This he used, much to the amusement of himself and the other natives of the jiarty. 

Fire. — Among these natives the flint and steel will probably never be supplanted by the more 
modern invention of matches, although the latter are used to some extent during the summer 
season by the coast natives and others who visit the whale-ships. They are not considered as 
desirable for their uses as the more compact flint and steel. Several plants indigenous to the region 
furnish an abundant and easily obtained supply of material to make tinder. Among the natives 
of the interior there are a few old people who have letaiued the art of making fire by the use of 
the fire drill, but the younger generation ai)pareutly do not practice it. 

Lamp. — Shallow bowl carved from soap-stone. Used for heating and lighting the winter 
bouses and for cooking. There are several sizes, but the ones most commonly seen are about seven 
inches long and four and one-half inches wide, outside measurement. Tbe space carved out is 
oblong in shape, and there is a margin of about an inch between this space and the edge of the 
lamp. In use, the hollow space is filled with oil, and moss is placed around the margin to serve as 
a wick. The lamp produces a dense smoke, but throws out cousiderable heat. 

OH bags. — For holding oil used in lamp and in food. They are made of the entire skin of the 
hair-seal. A small aperture is left, through which the oil is poured when wanted. This is closed 
by a cord of deer skin or sinew. 

Stune ai-es. — Two specimens of stone axes were seen, one of which was jade, and the other a 
dark brown stone of slaty nature. Neither was hafted. They were exhibited as curiosities with a 
view to sale to our party. Ou the lower river I saw one stone adz hafted and iu use. The blade 
was four inches long by two wide, wedge-shaped, and had been chipped to its present shape. The 
handle was a short piece of wood, to the end of which the adz was lashed with a rawhide thong. 

PERSONAL ADORNMENT. 

The hideous custom so prevalent among the males of the coast Eskimo of wearing "labrets," 
disks or knobs of stone or glass, in incisions made iu the lower lip is rare among the natives of 
the interior. A few of the old men had incisions in their lips; but either they were too poor to 
have them or the custom is dying out, for 1 saw. very few labrets on the Kowak River. Small 
pieces of beautifully polished jade, of a light green color, were seen on several occasions and are 
greatly prized by the owners. They are worn as pendants ou strings around the neck. As a 
mark of special favor one of our native guides, who was the fortunate owner of one of these 
charms, allowed me to wear it on my watch guard for a while, but I could not induce him to sell it. 

The women tattoo the chin with three vertical lines on arriving at the age of pubertj' and 
increase the number of lines after marriage. I observed on several occasions women whose skins 
were marked with a broad mark of soot under each eye, but I could not ascertain whether this 
was for ornament or the observance of some custom in regard to their superstitious belief. All 
I could learn from An(lr(5 on this subject was that they marked themselves in this manner at 
certain times because "they liked to." Ear-rings made of bright-colored beads strung on sinew 
are common with the women, and mostof the younger girls have their hair neatly braided and the 
ends wrapped with strings of small beads. I observed mauy of the women with finger-rings made 
of brass or iron, and a few with bracelets made of a piece of rawhide on which was strung a large 
bead, a brass button, or a round piece of ivory. The ornamentation of the clothing is not so 
elaborate as that of some of the coast tribes, and rarely shows anything more than a narrow fringe 
of fur around the edge of the "parka." 

All these tribes are universally addicted to the use of tobacco, and the pipe is always an 
article upon which cousiderable work iu the way of ornament is spent. There were seen so many 




GROUP OF TCHUKCHI NATIVES, INDIAN POINT, SIBERIA. 




YARANGA AND PLOVER BAY TCHUKCHlS, SIBERIA. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 89 

shapes and styles of this one article that it would be impossible to give a description of all. I 
will, then, take the ones most commonly seen as examijles: 

The bowl is made of iron, brass, ivory, or stone, cylindrical, with its top flanged and two lugs 
ou the lower end, over which the lashing passes which secures it to the stem. The bore of the 
bowl is from one-fourth to one-half inch iu diameter and holds, when full, about a thimblefuU of 
very finely pulvei'ized tobacco. The stem is from twelve to eighteen inches in length, and is made 
by splitting a branch of alder or soft piece of wood in two and making a groove in each part. The 
two parts are then put together so that the grooves lie opposite each other and are securely lashed 
iu this i)osition with sinew. 

The women's pipe is longer than that of the men. Each is furnished with a short steel or 
ivory pricker for clearing the bowl when it gets foul. 



FESTIVALS, GAMES, AND AMUSEMENTS. 

Living as they do in isolated settlements during the time that they are forced to lead a life of 
inactivity, these nomadic races have few opportunities for the observance of any very elaborate 
festal or ceremonial rites. The absence of any large council-houses or Icashimas of the Russians, 
at any of the sites of winter habitations which we visited, naturally leads to the supijosition that 
among these tribes the custom of inaugurating extensive feasts, in which native theatricals, story- 
telling, and exchange of presents form a part so common among the natives elsewhere iu Alaska, 
is not followed. 

During the short summer months those of the interior natives who have furs to barter, or who 
care to make the journey to the coast for pleasure only, descend the rivers and joiunn the festi\i- 
ties which annually take place at a rendezvous of all the natives of the coast and interior in this 
region. At such times wrestling, foot races, and feats of strength and agility occupy the attention 
of the young men and boys most of the time; and frequently a kayak race and contests between 
the hunters in throwing the spear from a boat interest the older ones. Dancing, singing, and 
story-telling also are iudidged in on special occasions. (See description of dance in narrative.) 

I observed several groups of natives, mostly belonging on the coast, gambling in the camp at 
Hotham Inlet, and they were playing with ordinary cards. 

The children of all these tribes have playthings given them by their indulgent parents, and 
the sight of a little girl fondling a doll made of wood and clothed with miniature Eskimo clothing 
was frequent. The boys play with small spears and bows and arrows. When they have arrived 
at the age of eight or ten they are given a canoe or kayak just large enough for them to paddle 
about iu near the shore. 

Notation and method of reckoning time, etc. — Time in days is reckoned by "sleeps," and this 
system of notation extends to estimates of distances. It thus happens that a certain number of 
"sleeps" may mean so many days of time or the distance usually traveled in so many days' journey. 
As a day's journey during the winter is equal to about three in summer, errors iu estimating dis- 
tances are of frequent occurrence, unless the traveler has it fully understood which "sleep" is 
meant. 

There seems to be no extensive system of numeration. The native vocabulary contains, as 
far as 1 could learn, only the first ten cardinal numbers. For the expression of numbers greater 
thau ten recourse is had to the fingers and toes, bits of wood or stone, and when this method fails, 
"a great many," "too many to count," is shown by a handful of sand. 

Population. — In consequence of their nomadic life it is impossible to obtain a census of these 
tribes by actual count. The following estimates, based upon carefully prepared data, represent 
as nearly as it is possible to obtain the actual numbers of the natives of this region. This estimate 
includes all the inhabitants of the Noitoc region in the north, the Kowak in the center, and the 
Belawik in the southern portion of the section of country described in this report : Noitoc River, 
350; Kowak River, 275; Selawik, 300— total, 925. 



Plate I.— Imlpements of the Chase, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 

1. Holder for throwing spears, one-third size. 

2. Snow speclacleB, natural size. 

3. Section of 2 through A B. 

4. Spear-head of ivory for deer, natural size. 

5. Arrow-head of ivory pronged for birds, natural size. 
C. Spear-head of chipped flint, natural size. 

7. Arrow-head of chipped flint. 

8. Blunt arrow-head of ivory or bone for birds, natuiral size. 

9. Spear-head of polished jade; very rare. 

10. Seal .spear with detachable ivory head, one-sixth size. 

11. Bird spear with prongs of ivory, one-sixth size. 

90 



Ethnology 



Plate I. 




Plate II.— Implements of the Chase (continued), Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 

2 > Stone fish-hook X 2. 

3. Snare for flying liirds, one third size. 

4. Ivory fish-hook, natiiriil size. 

5. Fish-knife of slate, oue-tliird size. 

6. Detachahle spear-head of ivory, one-fifth size. 

7. Larch bow, re-enforced with sinew. 

92 



Ethnology 



Plate II. 




Plate III.— Trausportation and Locomotion, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 

1. Shoe of deer-skin with walrus-skin sole. 

2. Shoe of walrus-skin with wlialo-skin sole. 

3. Boot of hair seal skin. 

4. Boot of deer skin ornamented with fur. 

5. Shoe of fawn-skin. 

ti. Inner shoe or sock of tanned buckskiu. 

7. Snow-shoe. 

8. Birch-bark canoe (Kowak River). 

9. Sled (Kowak River). 

10. Sled with ivory shoe (coast natives). 

94 



Ethnology 



Plate III. 






^. 





;^f^^ 







Jf^ 






10 




Platr IV. — PiPKs, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 

1. Priinitivo pipe without detachable howl, oue-foiirth size. 

2. Pipe, split Rtom ami stone bowl, one-fourth size. 
;!. Pipe, split stem and brass bowl, one- fourth size. 

4. Pipe, carved from soft wood, ivory mouth-piece, one-fourth size. 

5. Pipe, split stem and Jadeite bowl, s eel jirickcr, one-f()\irth size. 
C. Woman's pipe, brass bowl and split stem, one-fourth size. 

7. Woman's pipe, inlaid stone and ivory bowl, split stem, one-fourth size. 

8. Modern pipe, stem made of l)rass cartridge-shell, wood and rubber mouth-piece, one-fourth size. 

9. Modern l)ipc, brass bowl, one-fourth size. 

10. Modern i)ipo, brass bowl, stem made of cartridge-shells, one-fourth size 

11. Inlaid stone and ivory bowl, with stem like 8, one-fourth size. 

12. Modern pipe, stem like 10, ancient jadeite bowl, one-fourth size. 

13. Modern pipe, brass bowl, slender split stem, one-fourth size. 

96 



Ethnology 



Plate IV. 



1^^^ 



^=^ 




12 



3 I II II J 




Plate V. — Labrets and Articles of Personal Adornment, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 

1. Stone "pluj;" labret, coiiimoD, natural size. 

2. Jade "pliif;" laljret, ran; natural size. 

3. Ivory and colored glass labret, rare, natural size. 

4. Uracelet (woman's) with button and glass bead, natural size. 

5. Ornament lor the nose. 

6. Ear-rinf;s, dillerent-colored glass beads. 

7. Inlaid ivory and whalebone seal, natural size. 

8. Carved ivory handle. 

98 



Ethnology 



Plate V. 











EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK UIVER, ALASKA. 



NOTES ON THE NATURAL HISTORY AND RESOURCES. 



SECOND ASSISTANT ENGINEER S. B. McLENEGAN, 

U. S. Revenue Marine. 
1884. 



99 



ORDERS TO ASSISTANT ENGINEER McLENEGAN. 



\J. S. Revenue Marine Steamer Corwin, 

Kotzehue Sound, July 8, 1884. 
Sir: You are hereby detailed to accompany tbe expedition about to be sent froui this vessel 
under the command of Lieut. J. G. Cautwell for the exploration of the Kowak Kiver. lu addition 
to any assistance which may be required of you by Lieutenant Cantwell in surveying the river, it 
will be your special duty to collect all the specimens and data possible in regard to the fauna and 
flora of the country, tfie character of the adjacent region, and in genernl all such information as 
will, in your opinion, be of value in the compilation of an exhaustive report of the exploration. 
Lieutenant Cantwell will atiord you every facility for the performance of the above mentioned duty 
consistent with the rapid advancement of the expedition ; but you will at all times be subject to 
Ills orders as to the time requisite for this purpose. I can not too seriously call your attention to 
the importance of preserving in your relations with Lieutenant Cantwell the utmost harmony of 
action. Should, however, any difficulty arise it will be your duty to waive the matter until your 
return to this vessel, when it will be properly adjudicated. Any deflection from these instructions 
will meet with my severest condemnation. 

Besides the above enumerated duties you will collect as many specimens of the birds and fishes 
peculiar to this section as possible, carefully preserving the same, and turning them over to the 
proper authorities on your return. 

With best wishes for the successful terminatiou of the expedition, 
I am, very respectfully, 

M. A. Healy, 
Captain, (J. S. Revenue Maritie. 
Second Assistant Engineer S. B. MoLenegan, 

U. S. Revenue Marine. 

101 



LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 



U. S. Revrnue Steamek Coewin, 

San Francisco, Gal, November 1, 18S4. 
Sir: Iu obedience to your order dated Arctic Ocean, July 8, 1884, detailing uie for duty in 
connection with the exploration of the Kowak River, I have the honor to submit herewith the 

following notes. 

In justice to myself I would respectfully state, in view of the circumstances under which I 
accompanied the expedition, that I was totally unprepared for an undertaking so comprehensive 
and important. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

Saml. B. McLenegan, 

Second Assistant Engineer, V. S. R. M. 

Capt. M. A. Healy, 

Commanding Revenue Steamer Cortcin. 

103 



THE KOWAK RIVER. 



Opening inland by a narrow entrance from tliat great body of water in the Northwestern 
Arctic Ocean known as Kotzebne Sound is a sheet of liesli water called Hotham Inlet. 

For the most part this inlet is extremely shallow. The entrance is guarded by vast mud-tlats 
and sand-bars which are barely covered with water. The inlet is about ihirty-five miles in length 
and from four to eight miles in width. It has a general trend from southeast to northwest. Its 
water is not intluenced by tides, but a prolonged southeast wind causes a low stage. 

Passing through the entire length of llotham Inlet and into the waters of Kotzebne Sound is 
a well-defined river channel. The sea entrance to this is somewhat difficult to find. A vessel 
drawing from one to two fathoms can enter at the ordinary stage of water. In the inlet ijroper the 
channel has from two to four fathoms of water, and is comparatively easy to trace. 

As we approach the head of the inlet the water gradually shoals. Near the lower or southern 
extremity a river known amongst the natives as the "Koownk" enters the inlet through a large 
delta. It is very shallow here, and shoals covered with from two to four feet of water extend far 
out into the inlet. In crossing the bar it is somewhat difficult to find a channel of sufficient depth. 
When fairly between the banks of the river, however, there is an abundance of water. This varies 
from two to five fathoms. 

The delta is a low tract of land covered with a series of marshes, lakes, lagoons, and a thick 
growth of willows. Above the delta, which extends for about ten miles, the river widens out into 
a stately stream, on which large steamers might safely ride. 

The existence of this river was undoubtedly known to (Japtain Beechy as far back as 182G and 
1827. Since his time, however, little or nothing was learned concerning it, except from the reports 
of Surgeon John Simpson, E, N., in 1848. 

Capt. E. E. Smith informs the writer that he ascended that river a few miles in the year 1874. 
During the summer of 1883 Lieut. George M.Stoney, U. S. Navy, then a passenger on the revenue 
steamer Corwiti, in a boat manned by Captain Healy from the Conchies crew, went about fiftj' nn'les 
up the river. The word Koo or Ku in the dialect of nearly all these northern Eskimos signifies 
river, and the suffix icfd; pule, or bale means large or big. Hence the native meaning of Kowak 
or Kiiiik, as some authorities spell the name, is Big River. 

For a distance of fifty miles above the delta the adjacent region is a level stretch of tundra. 
Along the river banks, and extending a short distance in, there is a sparse growth of timber 
consisting principally of spruce. Above this point there is a gradual change into a hilly, broken, 
and partly timbered country. In this section we find the coal belt of this region. 

During the spring freshets a very high stage of water prevails. Along the banks and among 
the adjacent timber evidences are everywhere visible of the havoc wrought bj- the ice. Large 
trees are uprooted and smaller ones are ridden down. Great furrows are ploughed in the banks, 
and masses of earth are undermined and carried away. Along the lower river there are several 
miles of ice cliffs similar to those at Escholtz Bay. These rise to a height of two hundred feet 
above the river. Detached masses are constantly falling into the river, rendering a near approach 

105 



106 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

exceediiij^ly dangerous. At tliis jjoint a strong current sweeps directly under the clifls, and it 
is necessary for purposes of navigation to keep well out in tbe stream. Masses of earth and 
quantities of timber are being undermined and precipitated into the river. 

The source of the vast shoals in Ilotham Inlet is now apparent, and it seems probable that 
in time the inlet will cease to exist. 

After passing through the foot hills the river enters a mountainous region. On either bank 
the country has a gradual slope from the mountains. The ranges, which are somewhat broken, 
rise from two to three thousand feet above the sea. 

For a distance of fully 250 miles there are from two to five fathoms of water in the channel. 
Above this point the river shoals and the current becomes very strong. During high water the 
channel is obscure in places; at a lower stage it is well detined and its navigation comparatively 
easy. In regard to the headwatersof the river the writer can not speak from observation. The 
natives say that the current is very strong and that it is impossible to stem it. The channel is 
said to have many dangerous rocks, and frequent portages are necessary to avoid rapids. 

It is said that a portage can be made to an unknown river flowing into the Yukon. It is also 
supposed that a short portage can be made to the Colville River, which flows into the Arctic near 
Point Barrow. 

There are many interesting problems to solve in Arctic Alaska. It will not be tbe work of 
weeks or even mouths, but years of arduous and incessant labor will be required for the success- 
ful accomplishment of this duty. 

TIMBER. 

The valley of the Kowak above the delta is pleasantly diversified with forests and plains, 
thus unfolding to the eye new scenes of quiet beauty as we journey upstream. The forests are 
made up of white spruce, birch, poplar, and cottonwood. The timber shows more or less climatic 
repression. The spruce seldom attains a diameter exceeding eighteen inches and is stunted in 
growth. This species forms the great bulk of the timber in this region. 

FISH. 

The river abounds in fish, among which the salmon is the most common and desirable species 
for native use. Coregonus, jiickerel, grayling, and trout are frequently seen ; the latter two species 
taking the hook readily, formed an agreeable change from our monotonous diet of ship stores. 
The salmon run begins in July and lasts through until the end of the spawning season. During 
this time the natives are busy laying up a supply of this fish, which constitutes their chief means 
of subsistence during a portion of the long winter months. 

In order to arrive at any definite conclusion as to the value of the fish product of this region 
it would be necessary to obtain observations covering a series of years, as the duration of the run 
and quantity of fish entering the river varies greatly from year to year. 

MINERAL EESOUECES. 
COAL. 

In the lower river region, about seventy-five miles above the month, we found extensive 
deposits of coal. Our attention was first directed to this matter by the large masses of conglom- 
erate rock along the river banks. Wherever this formation is found we have discovered deposits 
of coal. 

The coal belt in this region is about thirty miles in width, and it passes through a series of 
high, rolling, and partly timbered hills. In many places the veins crop out along the water's edge, 
and during the spring freshets large quantities are detached and washed down into the bed of the 
river. 

The outcrop is seldom free from slaty impurities. Notwithstanding this, we obtained a uantity 
of remarkably pure specimens. It is jet-black in color, and of a soft, friable texture. 



CEUISB OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. 107 

All the coal in tbis region is of a lignite composition, which is the most recent formation of 
the coal series. In many respects the product resembles that of the well-known vein near Cape 
Lisburne. The latter is undoubtedly the northern termination of the Kowak River vein, and it 
affords an interesting study in tracing the coal belt of Alaska. Below the coal formation we found 
extensive deposits of fire clay. This material is used to a limited extent among the natives for 
the manufacture of rude earthenware. 

The deposits of clay existing here are mostly of a fatty nature, which is a serious objection to 
its use. When subjected to heat the shrinkage is apt to cause a fracture. The addition of sand, 
however, will in a measure remedy this. 

GOLD. 

In regard to the existence of gold in this region there seems to be no doubt. In almost every 
stream, large and small, we found the color of gold, and if this be an indication this precious metal 
undoubtedly exists in some sections of this country. Gold never exists in the secondary or coal- 
bearing formation, hence we may look for it in vain along the lower river. 

Admitting its existence in northern Alaska, the question arises whether it can be proQtably 
mined. Since the acquisition of the Territory the southeastern portion has been well prospected. 
More recently miners have penetrated the vast region drained by the Yukon, and many have 
journeyed down that river to the sea. 

Thus far the results obtained have not been flattering, and but little encouragement is offered 
for further work in this region. Miners, while they admit the existence of gold there, assert that 
it can not be mined at a profit. The character of the country, its remoteness from a base of 
supplies, the long winters and the short summers, are detrimental to inining of any description. 

It is possible that with the richest ores quartz mining might be successfully carried on. Again, 
with large quantities of free gold, placer mining might prove remunerative, but as far as known at 
the present time nothing of the kind is to be found in Alaska. 

It is not probable that the experience of others will deter miners from prospecting there in 
the future. It is believed, however, that if the situation were better known miners might save 
both time and money and avoid inevitable disappointment. 

GEEEN STONE. 

Among the natives of Arctic Alaska there is found a peculiar green stone. In former times 
large quantities were used for the jjurpose of making axes, spear and arrow heads, as well as 
ornaments and articles of domestic use. The stone thus employeil was of various shades of green, 
some being dark and opaque, while others were light and translucent. There seemed to be no 
uniformity in this resjiect, but the latter varieties were not found in abundance. 

The stone has always been greatly esteemed by the natives. The greater jiortion of the green- 
stone implements found among them at the present time are undoubtedly very old, and have been 
handed down as heirlooms from one generation to another. 

The stone has been popularly called malachite, jade, and various other names, none of which 
terms are correct. All the finer translucent varieties are nep.'irite. This is a hard, compact 
mineral, generally of a dark green color. Among certain races it was worn as a charm for the 
cure of kidney diseases, from which fact the name is derived. 

Large quantities of nephrite were brought from Peru and Mexico in the shape of carved 
ornaments at the time of the Spanish conquest. 

For many years attempts have been made to find the source of this stone in Alaska. The 
natives themselves apparently know very little concerning it, which fact indicates the ancient 
origin of the nephrite implements. Indeed we have every reason to believe that they are the 
work of a past generation. The existence of this stone is well known to the natives, but they 
are reluctant to give any direct information concerning it. 

At a distance of 120 mdes above the mouth of the river a range of mountains was pointed out 
to us in which the stone was said to exist. The range, which was rather isolated, towered consid- 
erably above the surrounding mountains. It is about thirty miles in length and has a general 



108 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. 

treud from east to west. The highest mountains, as first remarked, are about three thousand feet 
above the sea. 

It appears that these mountains have never been visited by the natives. There are many 
superstitions connected with them, and in consequence of this fact none of their number could be 
induced to accompany us as guides. 

On the eastern end of the range there are cliffs of serpentine rock. This is of a dusky green 
color. Serpentine has a pecular mottled appearance, not unlike a serpent's skin, from which fact 
it derives its name. It is quite soft and can be easily polished. Among the river natives were 
found two or three axes of this material. These were all rude affairs, however, and bore no 
resemblance to the old nephrite implements. 

Near the western end of the range we found quantities of a light green rock. This is very 
hard and compact, and bears no resemblance to the serpentine formation. The exact nature of 
this rock is unknown. It resembles jade in color, but lacks the granular structure. It lacks the 
translucent nature of nephrite, although some specimens exhibited this peculiarity to a certain 
extent. The stone is possibly an imperfect nephrite. The latter is never found in quantities — 
generally in " pockets" only— although nothing of the kind came under our observation. 

Nephrite was undoubtedly obtained in these mountains. The exact place, however, is 
unknown to the present generation of natives. 

I am indebted to Mr. W. IT. Melville, of the U. S. Geological Survey, for analysis of rock, and 
other favors, for which I desire to return thanks. 

THE FUR TRADE. 

In the Kowak Eiver region the fur trade is of local importance only. The few hundred skir)s 
which are annually brought down to the coast are comparatively insignitiuant in valu<', and in the 
end are productive of more evil than good to the native inhabitants. 

It is impossible to gather any statistics showing the value of the production. It is believed, 
however, that the annual product does not exceed ten thousand dollars in value. 

The most valuable peltry to be obtained in this region is the silver-gray fox. The skin is 
worth about ten dollars in trade to the natives, but in the San Francisco market it is worth irom 
two to three times that amount. The beaver is found sparingly here, aud the fur, although in 
demand, has not a high value. The peltry can be obtained for about a dollar in trade. 

The land otter is found more or less commonly throughout the interior. The fur is justly 
esteemed in the market, aud by many it is considered equal to the fur-seal. The fur is thi(!ker aud 
heavier than the latter and certainly much more serviceable. It can be obtained for about two 
dollars in trade. 

The marten is found abundantly in the mountain districts. In former times it was one of the 
most important and valuable skins in the market. At the present time, owing to the caprice of 
fashion, there is little demand for it. It is worth about one dollar in trade. 

In aihlitiou to those mentioned, the red, white, and cross fox, bear, wolf, lynx, and reindeer 
are found abundantly in this region, aud their skins are a staple article of trade. There are no 
tradnig stations in this region. The bulk of the production is brought down to the shores of 
Kotzebue Sound, aud a market is found on board the numerous vessels that visit this region. 

There is an excellent opportunity for the establisliment of a trading station at this point, and 
the enterprise would undoubtedly prove remunerative. Under the present lack of system the 
trade is injurious and demoralizing to the natives. 

There are certain furs which can not be obtained except for rifles or whisky. Large quantities 
of both were brought into Kotzebue Sound during the past summer by the Diomede and Capo 
Prince of Wales natives, who obtained them on the Sibcrriau coast. 

The sooner the limited demand for rifles can be legitimately supplied the sooner will the 
horrors of the whisky traffic cease. 



EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA. 



ORNITHOLOGICAL NOTES. 



SECOND ASSISTANT ENGINEER S. B. McLENEGAN, 

U. S. Revenue Marine. 
1884. 



109 



INTRODUCTORY LETTER. 



The territory drained by the Kowak River comprises a portion of Alaska lying north of 
the Arctic Circle, and is a region heretofore nnknown to esploreis. With the excej)tion of the 
immediate vicinity of the river mouth, the entire region is mountainous. Forests of spruce, white 
birch, poplar, and cottonwood are found along the river banks, and the open portions are covered 
with a luxuriant growth ot vegetation. 

The following ornithological notes, collected during a reconnaissance of the river, are incom- 
plete. Inasmuch as all, or nearly all, the birds are migratory during the winter months, the 
discovery of new species was not to be expected. It is believed, however, that the present paper 
will give a good idea of bird life iii that region. Other species will undoubtedly be added to the 
list when further research is made. *Tlie Strigidie, Falconidiv,, Hcolopacidie, and Anatidai, enumer- 
ated in the present paper, are not a complete list. In certain instances where doubt existed, and 
no specimens were obtained, the bird has been excluded from the list. 

The geographical distribution of several species has been enlarged, and in other cases the 
northern limit has been established. The ornithology of Alaska is far from complete, and it is 
believed that any addition will be welcomed by naturalists. 

Samuel B. McLenegan, 
Assistant Engineer, U. S. Revenue Marine. 

San Francisco, Cal., October 31, 1884. 

• 111 



BIRDS OF THE KOWAK RIVER. 



TUEDID^. THRUSHES. 

1. Hylocichla allciae Baird [3].* The Gray-cheeked Thrush. 

Among the tangled and almost impenetrable forests of tlie interior we often hear the sound 
of sweet melody. As we stop almost involuntarily and listen to the clear, sweet tones our tired 
frame seems quickened into a new life. Like the weary traveler who kneels over the clear spring 
to quench his thirst iu the cool waters below, we feel revived. The feeble pulse becomes stronger, 
the eye becomes brighter, and we listen with bated breath to the strange melody in the forest. 

To one uuacquainted with this charming songster it would bo difficult to describe him. 
Although clad in a plain coat, the thrush has no rival among the feathered choristers. 

From the inner shores of Hotham Inlet, where the willow and alder bushes extend to the 
water's edge, throughout the region of the Kowak River the thrush is an abuudant species. 

It arrives in this latitude early in June, and during the mating season the forests resound with 
its melody. The nest, a loosely constructed affair, is generally placed in a low bush and contains 
five eggs. After the young birds appear the thrush is seldom heard, and the song is reduced to 
a single note. Later in the season the thrush becomes silent, and early in September it leaves for 
the south. 

2. Merula migratoiia {Linn.) Sw. and Rich. [7]. The American Kobin. 

To one who is familiar with the robin in the lower latitudes, how strangely out of place does 
he appear in the dreary regions of the north ! What memories are awakened on hearing the 
familiar strain, and how readily does the mind wander back to the more pleasant scenes and sur- 
roundings of the lower latitudes! 

Throughout the timbered portion of this region the robin, although not an abundant species, 
is a regular summer resident. It seldom visits the tide-water coast in this latitude. I saw a pair 
at the head of Hotham Inlet in August, but it is doubtful whether it breeds there, as the shelter 
is hardly sufficient. It undoubtedly ranges throughout northern Alaska, and in the wooded in- 
terior it rears its youug far above the Arctic Circle. 

PARID^. TITMICE. 

3. Parua cinctua Bodd. [44]. The Siberian Chickadee. 

This active little wood sprite is more or less common throughout the wooded interior. The 
chickadee is one of the few species that brave the Arctic winter. Its enlivening presence does 
much to relieve the dreariness of the forest. It seldom or never approaches the sea-shore in this 
latitude. The absence of its natural home, the trees, excludes it from the coast region. 

• The nomenclatare is that of Mr. R. Rldgway'a " Nomenclature of North Ajuericaa Birds," Balletin No. 21 of 

the U. S. National Museum. 

H. Mis. G02 8 

113 



114, CRUISE OF THE STEAMEK COR WIN. 

4. Parus hudsonicua Fors/. [45]. ITrnsoNiAN Chickadee. 

Like the preceding, this species is a permanent resident in the wooded interior. I have often 
watched this busy little worker, ever cheerful and active, as it plays hideand seek among the tall 
spruce trees; but never finding it in my heart to raise the deadly gun. How strange it is that it 
should prefer the cheerless regions of the north, enduring its cold and famine, to the more pleasant 
scenes in the lower latitudes. But we are ever reminded that He feedeth the sparrows, and not one 
falleth to the ground without his notice. 

STLVICOLID.^. WARBLERS. 

5- Helminthophaga celata (Say.) Baird. [86]. The Orange-Crowned Warbler. 

This warbler is qnite common in the Kowak Eiver region. During the early part of July these 
birds were apparently numerous along the river ; but about the middle of August not an individual 
was seen. It nests in the thick bushes on the banks of the river, and, like many of the smaller 
birds, it leaves very early in the fall. 

6. Dendrceca lestiva (Gmel.) Baird. [93]. The Summer Yellow Bird. 

Throughout northern Alaska, especially along the level stretches of tundra and among the 
bushy tracts lying along the river banks, this handsome little warbler is found in abundance. 
The alder and willow-lined shores of Hotham Inlet and the adjacent region afford a congenial 
haunt for these birds. This is the only locality in which they approach the sea-shore in this latitude. 

7. Dendrceca coronata {Linn.) Gray. [95]. The Yellow-Rump Warbler. 

Unlike the preceding, the Yellow-Rump is found exclusively in the wooded interior, and lis 
appearance on the sea coast may be regarded as accidental. I saw three specimens only of the 
present species, and I am inclined to think that it is an uncommon resident in this region. 

8. Dendrceca striata {Forst.) Baird. [IDl]. The Black-Poll Warbler. 

The Black-Poll, like its preceding relative, is confined chiefly to the wooded interior. Occasional 
specimens are seen on the shores of Hotham Lilet, where the dwarf alder ofters some attraction. 
It is more abundant than the preceding, and undoubtedly breeds in this region. 

9. Myiodioctes pusillus ( Wih.) lip. [125]. The Black-Capped Yellow Warbler. 

Like its relative, the Yellow Warbler, the present species is more or less common in the Kowak 
River region. The Black-Gap is seldom found in the wooded interior. Among the bush-covered 
lowlands, or even on the open stretches of tundra, it is an abundant species. It is chiefly inland 
in distribution; and according to my observation it is very uncommon along the coast. 

LANIID.E. SHRIKES. 

10. LauiuB boreali8 rieiU. [14-]. The Great Northern Shrike. 

The Northern Shrike, although seldom or never found in abundance in any locality, was noted 
on several occasions, and specimens were obtained. The present region is the highest latitude in 
which the shrike has been obtained in Alaska; and it adds considerably to the bird's known 
range. I saw several pair of shrikes along the river; and although no nests were obtained, the 
bird undoubtedly breeds in this region. 

HIRUNDINIDiE. SWALLOWS. 

11. Hlrundo erythrogastra iJorfrf. [154]. The Barn Swallow. 

What a pleasant surprise to the traveler iu these northern regions to meet his old friend, the 
swallow ! How easily does the mind wander back to the scenes of other days, and recall the de- 
light with which we welcomed this harbinger of spring! 

Throughout the present region the Barn Swallow is a common species. Among the deserted 
winter huts of the natives I found it nesting in abundance. After the nesting season we fiud it 
everywhere along the river, or skimming over the marshy sections lying on either side. The 
latter part of August these birds collect in flocks and leave for the southern climes. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 115 

12. Tachycineta blcolor (Vieille) Cahan. [155]. The White-bellied Swallow. 

Along the entire river, wherever the banks aiford the proper nesting place, this species is 
found in abundance. This little swallow, skimming over the water and darting hither and thither 
in search of insect prey, is a vsight which must interest the nio.st indifferent lover of nature. The 
swallow arrives here early in June, and nests towards the close of the same month. I think that 
both this and the preceding species are found in every part of the interior north of the Circle. 

FRINGILLID^. PIISrCHES. 

13. iBgiothus canesceus exllipes (Cones) Itidgtv. [178a]. The WhiteRumped Redpoll. 

Throughout this portion of Alaska, especially along the level stretches of tundra, or among 
the dense thickets bordering on the river, this is a very common species. Both this and the fol- 
lowing species are permanent residents in these latitudes. During the severe months of winter, 
however, there is frequently a partial migration. 

The White-Rump nests wherever found in this region. The nest is generally placed upon a 
concealed tuft of grass, and usually contains four eggs. 

14. .Xlglotlius linaria (Linn.) Calan. [179]. The Common Redpoll. 

Like its relative just mentioned, the Redpoll is a widely distributed species. In the present 
region, however, it is more uncommon than the preceding. The range and general characteristics 
of the Redpoll are essentially the same as those of the preceding species. No nests were found in 
the Kowak region, although this bird undoubtedly breeds there. 

15. Plectrophanes nivalis (Lirtw.) il/eyec [18G]. The Snow Buntlng. 

In the desolate regions of the far north, and doubtless on lands yet undiscovered, the Snow 
Bunting is a summer resident. It is never fouud in a timbered district, but on the vast plains of 
tundra; on the barren hill-tops and rugged mountains we find it imparting life to the desolate 
landscape. 

The Snow Bunting is found to a limited extent only in the Kowak region. I have never seen 
the nest here. It is much more abundant on the coast than in the interior. 

16. Centrophanes lapponicus (Linn.) Caban. [187]. The L.\pland Loxgspur. 

The Longspur is one of the most abundant species in the present region. On the moss-covered 
hills or the vast plains of tundra we find it in the greatest abundance. During the mating season 
the Longspur is one of the few musical birds in these latitudes, and its handsome form and lively 
notes impart much life to the otherwise desolate regions. 

It has much of the sunny disposition and exuberance of song peculiar to the bobolink, and its 
habits are almost exactly the same. It reaches this latitude early in June. The nest is generally 
placed on a tuft of grass or a sheltered knoll. It is a loosely-constructed affair, consisting princi- 
pally of grass, and usually' contains four grayish-brown eggs. 

17. Zonotricbia gambeli intermedia Ridcjw. [207a]. The Intermediate White-Crowned Spabrow. 

Among the bushy tracts along the river banks the White Crown is a common summer resi- 
dent. It is one of the earliest spring arrivals in this latitude. The snow has scarcely left the 
thickets, or the young buds openetl to the genial warmth of spring, before our friend has arrived 
from the lower latitudes. 

This species takes a deservedly high rank among the feathered choristers; and during the 
days succeeding its arrival the notes can be heard on every hand. The nest of the White Crown 
is generally placed in a bush, or sometimes a tall weed is selected for this purpose. I have found 
the nest and young early in July ; but a month later the nest is deserted. 

18. Zonotrichia coronata (Pall.) Bairrf [ .'08]. The Golden-Crowned Sparrow. 

On the inner shores of Hotham Inlet, among the dense thickets of alder, the Golden Crown is 
a sparing summer resident. It is generally found in company with the preceding species, which, 
however, largely outnumbers this. I have never seen the nest in this hititude, although the bird 
undoubtedly breeds here. 



116 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

19. Spizella montana {Fnrxl.) Itidgtr. [210]. TiiK Tree Sparkow. 

Oue of the earliest arrivals iu northern Alaska is the Tree Sparrow. Long before the snow 
has disappeared from its haunts, or the young buds have begun to swell, our little friend has 
reached its northern home, and with bustling activity makes its arrangements for the season. 
Without wasting any time in musical cfl'orts he secures a mate, and soon the pair is busily engaged 
in the duties of the season. 

Notwithstanding his name, the Tree Sparrow seldom or never resorts to the forest. It is 
found almost invariably iu the bushy thickets, or even iu the more open sections of the country. 
It is very common in the Kotzebue Sound region, and is equally abundant throughout the interior. 
Although of limited musical power, its familiar form imparts life to the otherwise desolate por- 
tions of the country. 

20. Pasaerella iliaca (Merrcm) Gm. [235]. The Fox-Colorkd Sparrow. 

Among the feathered choristers of the northern forests we sometimes hear one whose clear, 
sweet tones rise with distinctness above the others. As the clear notes of the leader's violin are 
heard in an orchestra, so, too, are the notes of the Fox Sparrow heard in the orchestra of nature. 
While it has not the wild cxhileratiug melody of the thrush, it is more soothing and restful, and 
it dispels our sense of loneliness in the desolate forest. 

In the far interior the Fox Sparrow is not an abundant species, but along the alder-lined 
shores of Hothara Inlet and the lower river region they are very common. In this latitude the 
Fox Sparrow arrives early iu June, and soon after the cares of the season begin. After the 
young birds appear, our friend, absorbed in its new duties, is seldom heard. 

The latter part of August, when the chilly winds and lengthening nights foretell the coming 
winter, the Fox Si^arrow, along with many of the smaller birds, prepares to return to his southern 
home. 

lOTERIDiE.- BLACKBIRDS. 

21. Scolecophagus ferrugineus {Gm.) Swains [473]. The Rusty Blackbird. 

In the Kowak River region, and doubtless throughout Arctic Alaska, the Rusty Blackbird is a 
common species. The sight of our chattering, roUickiug friend in these far northern regions carries 
the mind back to more pleasant scenes and surroundings. The eye misses the budding trees, the 
sprouting fields of grain, the waving corn, and soon the reality of our position comes home to us. 
The blackbird seems to lose much of his careless good-nature here, and we miss the chattering 
medley of song so familiar in his southern home. We seldom find him in the spruce forests. He 
seems to have a preference for the more open birch timber, or the bushy tracts lying along the river 
banks. It nests here early in June, and about the first of September the birds collect in small 
flocks and leave for their southern home. 

CORVID^. CROWS, RAVENS. 

22. Conmscorax carnivorus (/3flc/r.) iiirfffic. [280]. The American Raven. 

The above-named species is more or less commou in the present region. Unlike its kind on the 
Aleutian Islands, it is extremely shy, and is seldom found in the vicinity of the native settlements. 
The crow nests in the spruce forests throughout the river country ; but as we approach the sea-coast 
it is much less abundant. 

After the nesting season is over, and the young birds are fully fledged, the crow is found abun- 
dantly along the exposed sandbars in the river. There, iu company with the gulls, it indulges its 
fish-eating propensities to the fullest extent. It is abundant, also, in the vicinity of the deserted 
fishing camps of the natives, where it performs very necessary scavenger service. Although the 
crow is considered a permanent resident of Arctic Alaska, there is a partial migration during 
the severe months of winter. 

23. Pica rustlca hudsonica (5co^).) Baird 12W)]. The Black-billed Maopie. 

One specimen in the collection from Hotham Inlet or Kowak River. 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. 117 

24. PerisoreuB canadensis fumifrons Riihjw. [297 fc]. The Smokv- fronted Jav. 

Ill the central and soutbern portions of Alaska the jay is an abundant species; but its range 
within the Arctic Circle seems to be very limited. In the present regiou but three specimens were 
seen, and I am inclined to think that it is very rare in this latitude. 

It is found principally in the bushy growth along the river, in which place they exercise a 
species of kukluxism among the smaller birds. It is very shy, and I found it diflflcult to ajiproach 
within gunshot. I have never seen it in the Kotzebue Sound region, and its occurrence on the 
sea-coast may be regarded as accidental. 

PICIDiE WOODPECKERS. 

25. Picus pubescens iiHH. [3G1]. The Downy Woodpecker. 

Although common in the central i)ortions of Alaska, in the Kowak region I found this a very 
rare species. The only specimens coming under my notice were about three hundred miles above 
the mouth of the river. I have never seen it in the vicinity of Hotham Inlet, and am inclined to 
thinks its occurrence there very unusual. The dwarf growth of willow and alder is unsuitable for 
nesting places, and if found there at all it is undoubtedly a straggler from the interior. 

26. Colaptes auratus (LiiiH.) »S'h'. [378]. The Yellow-shafted Flicker. 

The only record of the present species- in this region rests upon a single specimen seen in the 
upper river region. Altiiough I made special efforts to find this bird, save in the above-mentioned 
instance none came under my observation. It would appear that the Picidw represented by this 
and the preceding species are uncommon, if not rare, in Arctic Alaska. The question should 
remain unsettled, however. The necessary haste with which the writer's observations were made 
leaves room for doubt in some instances in regard to the exact abundance of certain species. 

ALCEDINID.E. KINGFISHERS. 

27. Ceryle alcyon (Linn.) Bote. [382J. Thf. Belted Kingfisher. 

Along the waters of the upper river this well-known bird is quite common, and it is undoubt- 
edly a regular summer resident of this region. The kingfisher is confined exclusively to the 
water courses of the interior and it seldom ai)proaches the coast in this latitude. During the past 
two years I have never seen a specimen in the Kotzebue Souud region. It is possible that during 
the migrations an occasional specimen may be found there. But the absence of the natural home 
of the kingfisher renders its occurrence there very improbable. 

The present record adds considerably to the known range of the kingfisher. 

STRIGID.E. OWLS. 

28. tJlula cinerea (Gmel.) Bp. [399J. The Great Gray Owl. 

In the dense spruce forests of the interior the Gray Owl is a well-known resident. It is con- 
fined to the timbered portions of the country. I have never seen a specimen in the vicinity of the 
coast, and it is doubtful whether that treeless section has any attraction for it. The nest of this 
species consists of a rude mass of sticks, generally placed in the top of a spruce tree. Like most 
of the Strigidm, the Gray Owl is a permanent resident of this region, and the same nest is used 
year after year. During winters of exceptional severity there is frequently a partial migration to 
the lower latitudes. 

29. Nyctea scaiidiaca (Linn.) Newt. [406]. The Snowy Owl. 

Throughout every portion of Alaska known to man the Snowy Owl is a well-known resident. 
Although it is never abundant in any locality, I saw it frequently along the river. Perched upon 
a rocky eminence, a tall spruce, or even a fragment of drift-wood, this noble species is a conspicu- 
ous figure. It is very shy, however, and great skill is required to circumvent it. 

Unlike the preceding species it is common on the coast. Here we find it on the hills or even 
among the drift-wood along the beach. 

It nests principally in the wooded interior, although a clift' is often chosen for that purpose. 
Like the preceding, the Snowy Owl frequently migrates during the severe months of winter. 



118 CRUISE OF THE STEAMEE COKWIN. 

30. Surnia funerea {Linn.) Sick, and Sw. [407]. The American Hawk Owl. 

Tbis handsome specie.s seems to be irreguhul^' distiilmlcil in the Kowak region. Two speci- 
mens were shot at Hotham Inlet, but in the wooded interior none came under mj- observation. 

As the name indicates, the Hawk Owl has some of the characteristics of the FalconkUe. and 
possesses much of the latter's boldness and daring. While in camp at Hotham Inlet a striking 
instance of this occurred. About dusk in the evening, as one of the party was returning to camp, 
a Hawk Owl darted from a neighboring thicket, seized the cap from his head, and was beating a 
hasty retreat with its novel prize. Before the owl had proceeded far, a well-directed shot brought 
down the retreating marauder. I have never been able to decide whether the act was one of jjure 
courage or a superabundance of audacity, but at all events it cost the brave bird its life. 

FALCONID^. HAWKS. 

31. Hierofalco gyrfalco sacer (Forst.) Ridgw. [412i]. Macfarlane's Gyrfalcon. 

The present species is one of the most widely distributed and abundant birds of prey in this 
region. A pair or more can be seen circling overhead in any bold portion of the interior. It 
breeds here early in June. The nest is placed in a tall spruce or upon a rocky eminence along the 
river banks, and two or three eggs are the usual complement. 

32. iEsalon columbarius (Linn.) Kaup. [417]. The Pigeon Hawk. 

In this latitude the Pigeon Hawk is confined to the wooded interior. I have never met any 
specimens along the Arctic coast. In the Kowak Kiver counti-y, liowever, it is not uncommon. 
I saw the nest and young in the mountain districts, and shot a pair on the banks of the lower 
river. This is the only record I have in the present region. While these data are hardly sufiQ- 
cient evidence, I believe that it is a regular summer resident of northern Alaska. 

33. Circus hudsonius (iinn.) n«//. [430]. The Marsh Hawk. 

On the lower river, amougthe bush-covered lowlands, the Marsh Hawk is a common and abun- 
dant species. A large number of specimens were brought to me by the natives at Hotham Inlet, 
all of which were young birds. It nests in the interior; but after the young are grown it is 
abundant along the Arctic coast. At this season of the year we see it flying back and forth over 
the wet meadow lands. The southern migration takes place during the latter part of September. 

34. Astur atricapillus (Wih.) Bp. [433]. The American Goshawk. 

This flue bird was observed only on one or two occasions in the Kowak River region. I have no 
data upon which to base an opinion, but according to my observation it is very uuc^'mmon. This 
species is one of the boldest and hiirdiest of the Falconidw, and in lower latitudes many instances 
of its daring came under my observation. 

TETRAONID^. GROUSE. 

35. Canace canadensis [Linn.) Bp. [472]. The Spruce Partridge. 

The Spruce Partridge is a sparing resident in this region. The only specimens that came under 
my notice were along ihe upi)er river. It is found ex(;lnsively in the spruce forests of the interior; 
and to my iiuowledge it never approaches the coast iu this latitude. I have never seen the nest 
here, but it undoulitedly breeds wherever found. 

36. Bouasa umbellus umbelloides (Doiq/l.) Hainl. [473a]. The Gray Ruffed Grouse. 

Like its soutijcin relative, the familiar partridge, this species is confined to the wooded interior. 
It is a siiaring resident iu the far north, and but comparatively few specimens came under my 
observation. Like the ruffed grouse of the lower latitudes the i)resent species has the peculiar habit 
of "drumming." In tlir si)ruce forests I liavc frequently heard it drum for hours at a time. This 
is done during the mating season nnly, at which time many fierce rivalries exist between the males 
and pitched battles are often fought. I have seen deserted nests of this species containing frag- 
ments of the shell. 



CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COKVVIN. 119 

37. Lagopus albus (Gm.) Jnd. [474]. Tue Willow Ptarmigan. 

The White Ptarmigan, familiarly kuowu as the Willow Grouse, is one of the most al)undant 
species in northern Alaska. Throughout the open portions of the interior and along the shores of 
Hothani Inlet and Kotzebue Sound it is very common. During the nesting season comparatively 
few are seen; but when the young are fully Hedged, about the middle of August, we find it every- 
where. 

The nest consists of a slight depression in the ground, lined with grass or lichens. The young 
are hatched the latter part of June. It subsists principally on berries, quantities of which are 
found, and also the leaves of the dwarf willow. 

38. Lagopus rupestris (Gm.) Leach [475]. The Rock Ptarmigan. 

In the hilly or mountainous sections of the country the preceding is replaced by this hand- 
some species. The Eock Ptarmigan is found in far less numbers, however; and I am incliued to 
think it is somewhat rare in the present region. On two occasions I obtained the female, together 
with the young. These are the only data I possess regarding them ; and it would seem, according 
to this, that the Eock Ptarmigan is very uncommon. I hardly feel warranted in expressing a 
decided ooinion in the matter. 

CHARADEIID^. PLOVERS. 

39. Strepsilas interpres (Linn.) Illig. [509]. Turnstone. 

40. Strepsilas melanscephala J'iij. [510]. Black Turnstone. 

One specimen of each of the Turnstones from Hoth am Inlet or Kowak River in the collection. 

41. Squatarola helvetica (Linn.) Cm. [513]. The Black-bellied Plover. 

This handsome species is a common resident of the present region. It is one of the first 
arrivals in the spring. At this season it resorts to the hilly and well-drained sections, where it 
nests. When the young are fully fledged we find it in almostevery section. The interior distribution 
is somewhat restricted, and we find it much more common on the coast. This bird is quite shy at 
all seasons; and when its haunts are invaded its warning whistle is heard on all hands. The 
plumage of the mature bird, richly variegated with black and gold, renders this species a very 
conspicuous object. The nest is generally placed on a knoll, and consists merely of a slight 
depression in the ground. Four large and finely marked eggs are the usual complement. 

42. Cbaradrius dominicus Miill, [515]. The Americajs Golden Plover. 

Like the preceding species, the Golden Plover is confined to the high and well-drained table 
lands. It is chiefly coastwise in distribution, although it nests to a limited extent in the interior. 
The unsuitable character of the country doubtless has its influence in this respect. In the fall it 
is very abundant along the shores of Hotham Inlet, where it assembles before leaving for the 
south. 

43. .SJgialitis semipalmatus Bonap. [516]. The Semi-palmated Plover. 

The present species is the smallest representative of the Charadriidce in northern Alaska. It 
has an inland distribution, although it is not an abundant species in any section. Along the river 
I found it principally on the exposed sand-bars or mudflats. It never associates in flocks in this 
region. This species nests on the river banks, and when its haunts are invaded it manifests its 
alarm by incessant cries. In August it is more abundant and is found everywhere along the 
river. At this season I found it at Kotzebue Sound in small numbers. The Semi-palmated 
Plover is known in some sections as the Ringneck Ployer, so called from the beautiful baud 
encircling the neck. 

SCOLOPACID^. SNIPE. 

44. GalUnago media wilsoni (Temm.) .Ri'djit'. [526a]. Wilson's Snipe. 

In the Kowak region this species is an uncommon resident. In the far interior not an 
individual came under my observation, but along the delta and losver portions of the river I found 
it in sparing numbers. It breeds in the wet marshes early in June, and in company with other 



120 CEUISB OF THE STEAMER COKWIK 

waders it resorts to the shores of Kotzebue Sound during early months of fall. The range of this 
species is very limited ou the Arctic coast. It is much more al)undai)t south of Bering Straits. 

45. Macrorhamphus griseus scolopaceus (Say) Coufs [527a]. The Red-belued Snipe. 

lu this latitude the present species largely outnumbers the preceding and is au extremely 
abundant species. The inland distribution is somewhat restricted. In the mountain districts 
none came under my observation, but in the lower section it is one of the commonest waders. 
Here we find it wading about in every fresh-water pool, probing the mud with its long, slender bill. 

It is not shy, and can be approached within a few yards withont exciting alarm. Even after 
a deadly lire has been poured into their midst they pften settle in the same sjtot, an<l by the use of 
a little skill a large number can be obtained. 

Unlike the preceding si)ecies, it flies in large and compact flocks. It nests iu the wet mead- 
ows early in June and leaves for the south about the middle of September. 

46. Octodromas macTilata ( Vieill.) Couea [5;i4]. The Pectohai, S/INDPipek. 

On the shores of Hotham Inlet, Kotzebue Sound, and the lower ri%'er this is a common 
resident. It does not associate in flocks, however, but small numbers can be found in every wet 
or grassy meadow. Its habits are much the same as those of the i)rcceding, with which species 
it associates. It nests in this region in early June and departs for the south about the middle 
of September. 

47. Pelidna alpina americana Cass. [."iSOiO. Tub Eicu-eacked Sandpiper. 

One specimen from Hotham Inlet or Kowak Eiver in the collection. 

48. Ereuuetes pusillus (ii/in. ) Cass. [541]. The Semipalmated Sandpiper. 

Throughout the river country this is a very abundant species. Along the sand-bars and 
muddy banks they are found in large numbers, and probably exceed all the other waders iu this 
region. They nest along the banks of the river or ou the borders of the neighboring marshes. 

49. Calidris arenaria {Linn.) lUhj. [542]. The Sandeeling. 

The only record of this species in the present region rests upon a small flock which I saw ou 
the shore of Selawik Lake. On August 16, while in camp at that place, a flock of eight birds 
circled overhead and settled within a few yards of the spot whei'e I was standing. Having uo gun, 
and fearing that any motion might alarm them, I remained immovable. After carefully examining 
the birds and assuring myself of their identity I retreated towards the camp, but greatly to my 
disappointment they took flight. This is the only instance iu which these birds were seeu. 
Although the Sanderling has a northerly distribution they are very irregular in occurrence and 
may safely be called a rare species in this region. 

50. Limosa lappouica uovae-zealandiae Gray [544]. The Pacific Godwit. 

From the delta of the river, along the shores of Hotham Inlet and Kotzebue Sound, this 
species is a common summer resident. They associate with the Eedbellied Snipe, although 
largely outnumbered by them. During the nesting season they resort ])rinjipally to the rolling 
tundra sections. In the fall, however we find them on the wet meadow lands in company with the 
above-mentioned species. 

51. Limosa haemastica (iiiiii.) Coues [545]. The Hudsoniajj Godwit. 

This fine bird is one of the most abundant waders in the Kowak region. Throughout the 
interior, wherever the couutry affords the proper feeding ground, they are a common resident. 
The Godwit nests in the tundra sections early in June, and about the latter part of August thej' 
concentrate iu large numbers at Kotzebue Sound. They are not shy, and I have shot a great 
many at this season. They feed priucipally uj)on the riiJeuing berries, of which there are large 
quantities. 

52. Totanus flavipes (Gme?. ; nei7?. [549]. The Yellow-Legs. 

Throughout the present region the Yellow-legs is a common but not an abundant species. 
On the coast it is a very rare bird ; and duriug the two summers I have passed iu these latitudes 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 121 

I have never seen a coastwise specimen. They range along the entire length of the river. Above 
the delta a pair or more may be seen constantly as we ascend the river. They are extremely noisy ; 
and when approached or disturbed manifest alarm with prolonged cries. Unlike the greater 
portion of the waders, they frequently perch upon trees and bushes. I found them in small flocks 
along the marshes and lagoons lying off the main river; and in securing two birds which I shot in 
one of these places I became helplessly mired. 

In the lower latitudes this species is known as the "Tell-tale," a name well earned by its noisy, 
restless disposition. They nest throughout the present region; a dry spot in the marshes being 
usually selected for that purpose. 

53. Rhyacophilussolitarius (TTi^s.) Cass. [550]. Solitary Sandpipkr. 

One specimen from Hotham Inlet or Kowak River in the collection. 

54. TTnmeuius hudsonicus Lath. [559]. The Hudsonian Curlew. 

This fine species is a regular summer resident of the far north. Its interior distribution is 
rather less than that of the coast. We find them sparingly in the rolling sections along the river. 
After the nesting season, however, it resorts principally to the shores of Kotzebue Sound, and feeds 
upon the ripening berries. It is not an abundant species on any section of the Arctic coast. They 
are quite shy at all seasons; and great skill is required to obtain more than two or three birds in 
one locality. This Curlew is one of the largest waders found in the north. 

55. UiimeniuB borealis (-Fo)-s«.)ia(/i. [560]. The Eskimo Curlew. 

Although smaller than the preceding, the Eskimo Curlew largely outnumbers it. They resort 
to the same localities in which the Hudsonian is found, and the habits of both are almost identical. 
In the fall I found them in large numbers at the delta, as well as the wet meadows on either side 
of the river. At this season they are plump and well flavored, and afford most excellent sport. 
Both species leave for the south during the latter part of September. 

PHALAROPODID^. PHALAROPES. 

56. Phalaropua fulicarius (^Linn.) Bp. [563 J. The Red Phalarope. 

This handsome bird has a very limited distribution in the Kowak region. During the nesting 
season it is found in the immediate vicinity of the river mouth; and in rare instances only do we 
find it above the delta. After the young are fledged this species is strictly maritime, and at this 
season we find them far out at sea, "where, they feed upon the animalculoe well known as the food 
of the bowhead whale. 

The phalarope nests in the wet meadows along the seashore early in June, and does not leave 
until the water is closed by ice. 

57. Lobipea hyperboreus (£!n)^.) Cm. [564]. The Northern Phalarope. 

The Northern Phalarope has a much wider distribution in the present region. In the vast 
marshes and lagoons of the delta it is a common species. Here we find them in every shallow 
pond and lakelet. I have frequently approached within a few feet of a flock without causing the 
slightest alarm. They nest here abundantly in June, and in the fall we find them in company 
with the preceding species. Both species are known to the whalers as " bowhead birds." 

GRUID^. CRANES. 

58. Grus fraterculuB Cats. [584]. The Little Crane. 

From the mouth of the Kowak throughout the interior the crane is an extremely abundant 
species. Along every exposed sand-bar in the river, as well as the adjacent marshes, a pair or 
more may be found. In the spring they are quite shy, and resort to localities of difficult 
approach. They nest princii)ally in ihe deep marshes along the main river, and when the young 
are fully developed they are abundant in every portion of the interior. The natives insist that 
there is a larger species than the fraterculus, and this is in accordance with my own observation. 
I have examined with glasses large numbers of crane?;, in places where approach was impracti- 
cable, the difference in size and coloration of which was noticeable even at a distance. 



122 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 



ANATIDyE. DUCKS, GEESE. 

59. Olor americanus {Sharpless) Bp. [588]. The Whistling Swan. 

Although extremelj' rare o» the coast, I found the swau moderately abundant at the delta of the 
river. It resorts almost exclusively to the marshes and lagoons of tliis region, and its occurrence 
on the Arctic coast may be regarded as exceptional. The swan also ranges for some distance up 
the river. I saw an occasional skin among the river natives throughout the region visited by us. 

They associate in small numbers only. JTot more than four or five birds are found in any 
locality. A native hunter brought in three fine specimens about the middle of August, and 
informed us that they were quite abundant. Before the southern navigation commences they 
arc quite common here for a few days. The swau uests about the first of June, somewhat later 
than the geese, and leaves for the south early in September. 

60. Auser albifrons gambeli (Uartl.) Couch [.">93]. Thk Ameiiioan White-fronted Goose. 

At the delta of the river, where the vast marshes extend as far as the eye can reach, we find 
this species in its greatest abundance. They reach this latitude earlj' in May, or as soon as the 
lakes and marshes are free from ice, and nest here in tlie greatest numbers. The white-fronted 
species is commonly known as the Tundra Goose, from the frequency with which it occurs in those 
peculiar sections. 

During the molting season, the latter part of July, they are quite helpless, and large numbers 
are speared by the natives. 

They leave for the south in September, when ice begins to form on the marshes. 

61. Bernicla cauadensis hutcliinsi (Siu. <f- liich.) Bidgto. [594a]. Hutchins's. 

This form has a limited range only in the present region. The main body is confined to the 
Bering Sea coast of Alaska, several hundred miles south. Among twenty specimens not more 
tliaii one can be referred to this sjjecies. 

62. Bernicla canadeusis leucopacia {liraiidt) Cass. [r>y4ft]. . The WmTE-cnEF.KED Goose. 

The range of this s[)ecies in this region is almost identical with that of the White fronted 
Goose. Its interior distribution exceeds it, however, and it is more common. The habits, time of 
arrival, and dei)arture do not differ essentially from those of the other species. 

63. Bernicla nigricans (tuui.) Cass. [509]. The BiACk Brant. 

These birds occur here merely as spring and fall migrants. The main flight, which passes over 
very early in the spring, breed in the far north, possibly on the unknown lands surrounding the 
l)ole. In the present region we only find occasional speciiuen.s, which are merely stragglers from 
the main body. They may safely be called a very rare resident of this region. 

64. Dafila acuta (7.iK«.) 7JoHa/>. [605]. The Pintail. 

The Pintail, or, as it is sometimes called, the Sprigtail, is the most abundant duck in northern 
Alaska, and they outnumber all other species combined in the present section. It has an interior 
as well as a coastwise distribution, although it is somewhat restricted in the former region. P'or a 
distance of one hundred miles above the mouth the Pintail is very common, but above that point we 
seldom see them. They nest in large numbers at the delta, and in the fall they are very abundant 
on the shores of Kotzebue Sound. 

They are not shy, and I have often approached within a few rods without alarming them. 
They are among the first arrivals in the spring and the last to leave in the fall. 

65. Mareca americana (Gnic/.) iS/cj)A. [007]. The Baldpate. 

The distribution of the American Widgeon north of the circle is very limited. On the Kowak 
River they were noted on a few occtisious only, and I am inclined to think tliem somewhat rare. 
Along the shores of Hotham Inlet they are a sparing .summer resident, and a few specimens were 
obtained during our stay at that place. They nest, where found, in northern Alaska. 



CRUISE OP THE WTEAMEE COJJWIN. 123 

66. Nettion carollnensis (GmeJ.) Baird [612]. The Green- winged Teal. 

This well kuown aud haudsome species has au extended rauge in uorthem Alaska. It nests in 
moderately large uumbeis at the delta, and ranges lor a hundred miles or more above that point. 
In the fall they are one of the commonest dncks at Hotham Inlet, and nearly equal to the Pintail 
iu abundance. They generally associate in flocks of a dozen or more and are very unsuspicious. 
1 have frequently obtained almost the entire flock by remaining concealed iu the grass. The 
Green-wing leaves early in September. 

67. Pulix marila {Linn.) Baird [614]. The Scaup Duck. 

Like the Widgeon, the distribution of this species is somewhat restricted in the present region. 
According to my observation, they are not al)undant north of the Bering Strait; and above Kotze- 
bue Sound they are seldom seen. It is confined exclusively to the small lakes and freshwater 
ponds lying inland, where they breed to a limited extent. I saw a few at the delta, but none on 
the main river. In the southern portion of its rauge the Scaup Duck is much more commou. 

68. Harelda glacialis (Linn.) Leach [623]. The Old Squaw Duck. 

The present species is one of the most peculiar and widely distributed of the northern water- 
fowl. It is equally at home in the great ice-fields of the Arctic or the vast marshes and lagoons 
of the interior. They arrive in this latitude very early in the spring, before the ice has commenced 
to break up ; and at this season they resort to the few open spots that can be found. During' the 
nesting season, which begins as soon as the snow leaves, they resort iu large numbers to the marshes 
and flat sections, where they remain until the young are fledged. From this time they are chiefly 
maritime in distribution, and we seldom find them except along the seashore. Here they remain 
until the ocean closes with ice. 

69. CEdemia americaua Sw. if Hich. [630]. The American Scoter. 

Although properly a sea duck, the Scoter has a limited inland distribution. In the present 
region we find them during the breeding season extending as far as the head of the delta. They 
are not abundant, however, and may be regarded as an uncommon species. After the conclusion 
of the nesting season they resort to the coast exclusively, and I hav« never seen a specimen iu the 
above-mentioned region. 

70. Melauettavelvetina(CflS8.) Baird [632]. TaE American Velvet Scoter. 

The distribution of this handsome species seems to be very irregular in the present region. 
The only record I have in the present region rests upon a single flock. On July 26, while iu camp 
on the river, at a point about two hundred miles above the mouth, a large flock of Velvet Scoters 
were seen drifting by on the strong current of the river. Although I made every effort to get within 
range it was impossible to do so, and I was greatly disappointed to see them take flight. The 
occurrence of these birds here was rather unexpected. According to previous observations thej- 
are strictly maritime in this latitude. This species breeds to a limited extent at the delta. In the 
fall more were observed here, and but few were seen at Hotham Inlet. 

71. Mergus merganser americanus (Cass.) Bidgw. [636]. The American Sheldrake. 

On the coast region of Alaska the Sheldrake is a very rare species. In the present region, 
however, the Sheldrake is a common, although not an abundant, species. At the various points 
along the river I saw aud obtained specimens of it. I have never seen more than a pair in one 
locality, and iu several instances only saw the female. In the early part of August I obtained the 
latter, together with the young, which at that time were iu downy plumage. I infer from this that 
they arrive late in the spring. 

72. Mergus serrator (XiiiH.) [637]. The Rek-breasted Sheldrake. 

The ])resent species is found in varying abundance in the Kowak region. They are confined 
chiefly to the lagoons and lakes lying off the main river, among which they breed. We fiud them 
also common on the shores of Hotham Inlet and Kotzebue Sound. 



124 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 

LARID.E. GULLS, TERNS. 

73. Pagophila ebumea {Phipps) Kaup [6.17]. Ivoky Gl'll. 

Olio specimeu from Ilotbiiin lulet or Kowak River in tiie collection transmitted to the Smith- 
sonian Institution. 

74. Rissa tridactyla kotzebui (I}p.) Coiics [COHa]. The Pacific Kittiwake. 

This interesting and widely distributed gull has a limited range only in the present region. 
It is chiefly coastwise in di.stribntion, and along the interior waters its occiirrcncie may be regarded 
as accidental. I have seen them at the delta of the river, but it is very doubtful whether they 
nest there. The Kittiwake breeds in great numbers on the rocky shores of Chammiso Island, 
which is only a few miles distant. 

75. Larus glaucus Bi-ihiii [GGO]. The Glaucous Gfll. 

The Glaucous Gull largely outnumbers all other species in the present region. Its habits are 
a strange combination of the fresh-water and saltwater gulls, and we find them commonly in both 
places. In the Kowak region the inland distribution of the Glaucous Gull greatly exceeds that of 
the coast, and throughout the interior they are extremely abundant. The distribution of this 
species is in a measure complementary to that of the Arctic Tern, and in localities resorted to by 
the latter the gull is unaccountably absent. They nest in large numbers at the delta and through- 
out the interior. 

76. Larus glaucesceus Uchl. [UGS]. The Glaucous-WINGED Gull. 

This gull has a very limited range in the Kowak region. It is confined to the immediate 
vicinity of the river mouth, and is never seen above the delta. On the shore of Kotzebue Sound 
it is moderately abundant, and replaces the jireceding species to a certain extent. They are much 
more abundant south of the Bering Strait. 

77. Larus philadelphiae ( Orrf. ) (.'ra^ [075]. Bonapaute's Gull. 

On the Arctic coast tliis species is of very rare occurrence. There is no record of it north of 
the Bering Strait, and according to my observation it is strictly an inland species. In the present 
region it is a regular summer resident, and occurs throughout the interior. It is not abundant, 
neither is it rare. 

They undoubtedly nest in this region. 

78. Sterna macrura {Xuuin.) [(W7]. Thk Arctic Terx. 

For a distance of one hundred miles above the delta the Arctic Tern is extremely abundant. 
Although it is the smallest of the Laridw, it is one of the most interesting as well. It is known in 
every portion of the far north, and resorts commonly to the iulaiul waters, as well as the icy seas. 
The tern arrives early in May or as soon as the ice moves out of the rivers. The nest is generally 
placed upon a sand-spit or any bare location along the river, and the young are hatched in June. 

During the nesting season the male birds may be seen circling about in the vicinity, and the 
peculiarly reckless and headlong manner in which they plunge into the water will at once draw 
attention. 

They are extremely belligerent in their disposition, and Mill attack and drive away any 
species that may invade their domain. Even the lue.sence of man is warmly resented, and I have 
often been attacked while invading its haunt. A single discharge from a shot-gun will cause 
them to be remarkably scarce, however. On the wing these birds are very graceful. Their long, 
pointed wings and deeply forked tails, together with the elegance of coloring, renders them one 
of the most beautiful species. 

79. Stercorarius parasiticus (iiini.) .Su««rf(r8 [Oy.l]. The Long-tailed jAECiEit. 

This elegant species has a limited range in the Kowak region. We usually tind them in pairs, 
and they are not abundant in any locality. In several instances I saw them in company with the 
Glaucous Gull, ui)on whom they practice their piratical operations. Tlie jaegers imbitnally 
attack and annoy the gulls and compel them to disgorge their prey, and in consequence of this 
fact it is a bird of ill repute among the gulls. 

They nest here in the marshes wherever found. 




\ 




JULIUS BIEP« a CO. L 



PARROT AUK 



CRUISE OF THE STEAMEE COEWET. 125 



COLYMBID^. LOONS. 

80. Colymbustorquatus Briinn [73<5]. The Loon. 

This species is the most ancoinmon diverin northern Alaska. It was noted on a few occasions, 
howerer, but I am inclined to think it rare. It i.s largely outnumbered by the black-throated 
8i)ecie8. I saw an occasional skin among the natives and learned from them that it occurs at rare 
intervals only. The Loon is much more common on the Bering Sea coast. 

81. Colymbus adamsi Gray [737]. The Great White- billed Loon. 

The above-mentioned species is the largest representative of the Colymhidrv, and is a well-known 
resident of this region. It is not abundant in any section, however, but is more common than the 
preceding. They nest in the great marshes of the delta, but do not range above the head. I saw 
several skins among the natives, which were usefully employed as " ditty bags." 

82. Colymbus arcticus Linn. [7^8]. The Ulack-throateti Divek. 

Tiironghout the interior, along the shores of Ilotham Inlet and Kotzebue Sound, the black- 
throated species is extremely abundant. Here it is found more common than in any other section 
of the north. In this latitude it associates in large flocks, and we see them in every marsh and 
lagoon along the river. 

During the hoars of the night the wild cry of the loon alone breaks the stillness, and always 
imparts to one a sense of inde.scribable loneliness. 

This loon nests in the impenetrable marshes of this region duriug the latter part of May, and 
leaves when its haunts are closed with ice. 

83. Coljrmbus septentrionalis Linn. [740]. The Red-throated Diveb. 

The haunts and habits of this bird are almost identical with those of the preceding species. It 
is much more uncommon, however, and not more than one in ten specimens can be referred to this 
species. 



NOTES ON THE DOWNY YOUNG OF THE PARROT AUK AND OF THE CRESTED AUK. 

By Leonard Ste.jnegek. 

(Two plates.) 

, During the cruise of the Concin, 1884, several downy young were collected by Mr. J. E. Lutz 
on Otter Island. They are of special interest, since the newly hatched chicks of the two species 
collected have never been received at any museum, so far as known, nor have they ever before 
been described or figured. 

Cyclorrhynchus psittactaus (Pa».) Ridffic. [747]. The Parrot Auk. (Plate I.) 

Baird, Brewer, and Ridgway, Water Birds of North America, 1, p. 51.5. 

Boicny young (U. S. Nat. Mus., Xo. 100378: J. E. Lutz, coll., No. 27, Otter Island, Jul;,- 17. 1884.) 
The bill exhibits all the curious peculiarities which characterize the genus Cyclonhynchiis, the 
"recurved" commi.'?sure, the falcate shape of the lower mandible, and the sidewise compression of 
the whole beak. In fact, the bill is very similar to that of the adult bird, of which Mr. Cassin 
said that "it seems to attain a maximum of oddity amongst the queer bills of this family of birds, 
the whole affair looking as if it might be a nose of wax badly pinched upwards, especially to the 
disadvantage of the under mandible." The chief diflference is that in the chick the upper mandi- 
ble is bent more abruptly towards the point, which, on account of the knob for breaking the egg 
shell still remaining, presents a truncate profile. The characteristic notch behind the tip is present. 
The nostrils are pervious. The color of the bill is a horny brownish g^ay, more dusky towards 
the tip; corner of mouth in the fresh bird probably whitish. 



126 



CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 



The color of the downy plumage above Is of a dark smoky gray; darker, nearly blackish on <ho 
head and sides of neck; chin, throat, and fore neck of the same general color, scarcely paler; rest 
of the under surface light ashy gray, with very slight if any fuliginous tinge, in strong contrast to 
the dai'k line of the npper parts and the neck, the darker line being very sharply defined. 

The collector's label indicates the color of the feet as "bluish, very light between the toes,' 
under side black." 

The iris, according to the label of No. 100380, is " dark gray." 

Two other specimens agree very closely with the one described above, except tliat in No. 
100370 the sides of the neck are considerably darker in the middle. The bills are scarcely shorter, 
but the tip even more abruptly truncate. 

IJiincHsioiis (inches and dccimah). 



U.S-Nat- 
Mu8. No. 


Col- 
lector's 
No. 


Locality. 


When col- 
lectoil- 


Collector's measurements : Dimensions from 
from fresh specimens. skin. 


Length. 


Girth. 


Wings, Eip. 
tip to lip. culmen. 


Tarsus. 


100378 

100379 
100380 


i7 
28 
29 


Otter Island . . . 
. do 


Jnly 17, 1884 
July 18, 1884 
....do 


4.80 
4.94 
5.50 


3.13 
3.25 
4.00 


4. 44 0. 36 
4. 43 0. 35 
5.31 I 0.35 


0.63 
0. .'■.5 
0.83 


....do 



Simorhynchus cristatellus (/"ftH.) .3/err. [748]. The Crested Auk. (Plate 1.) 

Baird, Brewer, and Eidgway, Water Birds of North America, 1, p. 512. 

Downy young (U. S. Nat. Mus., No. 100374; J. B. Lntz, coll.. No. 33, Otter Island, July 22, 18S4.) 

The bill agrees in general shai)0 with that of the adults in winter before the curious nuptial 
outgrowths have changed it so radically and is scarcely distinguishable from that of SimorhynchuH 
py(jm(vus of the corresponding age. Color, dark horny brown, lighter on terminal half of lower 
mandible. 

The color of the downy plumage is a uniform dark, smoky, and somewhat browui.sh gray, 
scarcely lighter ou the under parts. 

According to the collector's label, "the legs and feet are slate color in front, black under- 
neath." 

Iris, according to the same authority, "gray." 

Two other specimens. No. 100375 and No. 100377, are on the whole similar to that just 
described, but tlie under parts are slightly lighter and grayer, especially No. 100377, wiiich, 
according to the note on the label, was " taken from the egg," and has the bill whitisji, with dusky 
tip and base. 

The fourth specimen is still lighter underneath, especially on the belly, whicli is nearly ash 
color, and has besides a small white spot ou the chin. It has evidently just left the egg, and its 
size prohibits its being referred to any other species. The difierences mentioned may, therefore, 
be regarded as due to individual variation. 

Dimensions (inches and decimals). 



V. S. Nat. 
Mus. No. 


Col- 
lector's 

No. 


Locality. 


When col- 
lected. 


Collector's measurements 
from fresh specimens. 


Dimensions from 
skin. 


Length. Girth. 


Wings, 
ti)i to tip. 


Exp. 
oulmen. 


Tarsus. 


100374 
100375 
100376 
100377 


33 
31 
30 
32 


Otter Island 

..do 

...do 

do 


July 22, 1884 
July 20, 1884 
July 17, 1884 
Jaly 20, 1881 


5. 62 3. 66 
.•i. 35 3. 43 
5. 31 3. 62 
4. 44 2. 94 


6.43 
5.62 
4.88 
*.0« 


0.34 
0.30 
0.31 
0.30 


0.75 . 
0.67 
0.63 
0.56 





Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D. C, February 22, 1884. 



r 



/ 




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us 8IEN A CO LITM 



CRESTED AUK 



STATEMENT REGARDING THE NATURAL HISTORY SPECIMENS COLLECTED BY THE 

CORWIN. 



The followiDg statement, furnished by Mr. F. W. True, acting curator-in-charge, Smithsonian 
lustitutiou, is all that this office has to represent numbers 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, mentioned in letter of 
the Secretary of the Treasury, dated February 28, 1885, addressed to the Speaker of the Hcaise of 
Representatives. 

These collections, which consisted chiefly of marine invertebrates, birds, shelLs, fishes, plants, 
and rocks, were presented to the U. S. National Museum. Identification of a portion of the speci- 
mens has been made by the curators of that institution, and the common and scientific names are 
given in the following list: 

BIRDS. 



The following species of birds were obtained : 

Crested Auklet, SimorhynchHn eristatelliis (P.all.). 
Parroquet Auklet, Cyclorrlii/nchus psittaculiis (Pall.). 
Long-billed Do-m itcher, Macrorhamphus scolopacem {Sa,y). 
Paci6c Godwit, Limona baucti (Naum.). 
Hudsonian Godwit, Limona hamastica (Liun.). 
Yollow-legs, Totanus flavipes (Gmel.). 
Solitary Sandpiper, Totanus solitarius (Wils.). 
Senii-palmated Sandpiper, Ereunetes pusillus (Linu.). 
Red-backed Sandpiper, Tringa atpina pacifica (Cones). 
Pectoral Sandpiper, Tringa maculata Vieill. 
Red PUalarope, Phalaropus fiiUcariua (Linn.). 
Hudsonian Curlew, Niimcniiis hiidsonicus Lath. 
Eskimo Cnrlew, Numeiiiiis horcalis (Forst.). 
Pacific Golden Plover, C/ia)arfii«.srfoHii)acM.s/H?rHS (Gmel.). 
Soinipalmated Plover, JEgialilis semipahnata Bouap. 
Turnstone, Arenaria inte>~ores (Liun.). 



Black Turnstone, Arenaria melanocephala (Vig.). 
Little Brown Crane, G^rus canadensis (Linn.). 
Black-throated Loon, L'rinalor arcticus (Linn.). 
Ivory Gull, Gnria alba (Giinn.). 
Bonaparte's Gull, Lams pihiladeiphia (Ord.). 
Glaucous winged Gull, Larus glaucescens (?) Naum. 
Arctic Tern, Sterna jiaradiswa Brnun. 
Old-squaw, Clanguta hi/emalis (Linn.). 
Green-winged Teal, Nctlion caroliennsis (Gmel.). 
American Goshawk, Astur alricapilliis (Wils.). 
Pigeon Hawk, FaJco coliimhariiis Linn. 
American Magpie, Pica rustica hitdsonica (Sab.). 
Northern Shrike, Laniiis borealis A'^ieill. 
Barn Swallow, Chilidon erglhrogaster (Bodd.). 
Gray-cheeked Thrnsh, Turdiis alicia: Baird. 
Snowy Owl, Nyctea nyctea (Liun.). 



FISHES. 



California Flounder, Pleuronectes stellatus Pallas. 
Blenny, Delolepis rirgatna. 
Four-spined Scnlpiu, Cottus quadricornis L. 
Pike, £sox lucius L. 



Grayling, ThymalHs signifer Rich. 
Whitefish, Coregoniis pusillKs. 
California Herring, Clupea mirabilia Gir. 



MOLLUSKS. 

Mr. Dall makes the following statement in regard to the shells : The shells collected by the 
Corwin and sent by Captain Healy Lave been carefully preserved with the idea of working them 
up for a general report of the shells of Bering Strait and Sea at some future time. They have 

127 



128 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWII^. 

not yet been catalogued, and it is impossible therefore to say how many species there are in the 
lots received, but it is certain that the collection is one of the best and most valuable that has 
ever been received by the Museum from Bering Sea, and Is of very great importance for a correct 
knowledge of the fiiuna of that region. 

The Arctic shell fauna has been examined in the North Atlantic region by so many expedi. 
tions that, considering the wide distribution of most Arctic species, it is hardly to be expected that 
many new things are to be found aiiywliere within the limits of the Arctic Sea. Yet there was in 
Captain Healy's drcdgings a shell which proved to be not merely a new sjyeeies but a itew genus. 
This very unexpected "find" leads to the hope that more novelties remain to be secured even in 
the Arctic region. 

MARINE INVERTEBRATES. 

The collection includes sea-urchins, starfish, ophiuraus, holothurians, alcyonian corals, sea 
anemones, hydroids, worms, and crustacea. 

Especially worthy of notice are the following species: 

Sea-urchins: Strongi/locentrotus Brobachiensis. Locality: Off Hotham Inlet and off Point 
Hope. 

Starfish : Asterias acerrata. Locality: Lat. 66° 7' N., long. 168° 45' W., and lat. 65° 55' 15" 
N., long. 108° 9' 30" W. 

Ophiurans: Ami)hiura squamata. Locality: Ofif Point Hope. 

PLANTS. 

The collections of plants forming a iiartof the accessions 15278 (received November, 1881) and 
15382 (received December, 1884) was sent to the late Prof. Asa Gray for identification. They 
have not yet been returned, and since Professor Gray's death has occurred during the interim it 
seems improbable that the identifications have been made. 

ROCKS. 

The only rocks collected were some specimens of serpentine and quartzite from Jade Mountain, 
on the Kowak Kiver, and hornblende andesites from the recent volcanic islaud of Bogasloff, in 
Bering Sea. 



SOth Congress, ) HOUSE OF REPRESETs'TATIVES. j Mis. Doc. 

1st Se ssio n, f ^ No. 602. 



R E r () Vy T 



CRUISE OF THE REVENUE MARINE STEAMER 



C O E w r N 



IX THE 



ARCTIC OCE^N 



THE YEAR 1SS4. 



BY 



CAPT. M. A. HEALY, U. S. R. M., 

COMMA NDEE. 



i 






WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
1889. 



U' 



Deacidrfied using the Bookkeeper proce 
Neutralizing Agent: Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: 

NOV 193 
BBKKEEPEI 

PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGIES. L 




■iii 





